I went ahead and ordered O2 sensor wire extenders today as well as a 8" antenna. I bought the SVE extenders.
I'll let you know once I get to spend some time in the car. Honestly I run my radio off of my phone, so the antenna really isn't doing anything. I though the car looked wrong with no antenna, so I bought this.I’ve always liked those antennas but was skeptical about what it would do to my reception. Let me know what you think
Thanks man! I'm pretty excited about it. Having to wait to get in there and use it until after I get the floor done is like putting up a Christmas tree with presents under it, in front of your kids, 6 month before Christmas! Torture!This looks AWESOME!!!! I really wish that I had a lift in my garage
I got the header loose on the passenger side. This is my first time working with long tube headers on a car. I had an old 76 Bronco once that had long tubes on it. It was a completely different engine compartment. It had tons of room under the hood, so it was easy to work on.
When I got the header loose it was easy to see that the gasket was an old paper one that was crumbling. I was able to get one large chunk out, but I still have a little left to get out near the back of the motor. I can only move the header at most .25" at the front and less toward the rear. I'm going to use a piece of metal banding material as a scraper and knock the rest of the old gasket out. I'm pretty sure that this is the reason I had the leak.
You can see in the pic that the openings in the gasket are slightly smaller than the openings in the header. I have BBK long tubs, just for reference. I was going to get a set of copper gaskets, but the ones that LMR sold specifically said that they did not recommend them for use with BBK headers. I just went ahead and got the 1 5/8" gaskets manufactured by BBK. They appear to be a much more substantial gasket than what was on it. The old gaskets are Mr. Gasket brand. I see them being sold in all the parts stores. I'm just going to do the one side at this point. Once I get to the point where I can get into the shop and use the lift I'll tackle the other side. I have a feeling it will make things a bit easier. I know I can do it on the ground, but I need a list of thing to break the lift in with!
Long term I plan on changing out the entire exhaust system at some point. If I don't make major changes to the motor I'll probably go back with a quality shorty header. Definitely going to put cats back on it to cut down on the gas smell if for nothing else.
I've read in a couple of places that you need the smog system in place if you are utilizing cats. How true is that? I would think they would work OK, but might clog up prematurely due to no smog equipment.
Also, the AC orifice tube is sandwiched between the inner finder and the #1 header tube. This cant be good. Currently the system is new, but not charged and working, so it hasn't been an issue. I was thinking about trying to bend the orifice tube so that it will run above the header. I could maybe get a fastener that I could use to mount the tube higher up on the finder. Let me know what you guys would recommend. I wouldn't be bending the orifice portion of the tube. Just the area before and after it.
Thanks for the input Mike. When I was working on it the other day I reasoned that if I couldn't get the gasket in and out as it is I would need to loosen the motor from the mount on that side and lift it. Having confirmation that this is a common issue and lifting the motor is a viable solution makes me feel better about my plan of attack.They are only problematic until you come to terms with the fact that dealing with them requires the one nut be removed from the motor mount and the engine lifted with a floor jack on the side you're working on.
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