Thinking of ditching my e fans

James V

Active Member
Feb 26, 2017
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Question for you guys, since I'm ditching the efans as well. What do I do with the temp probe in the thermostat housing?
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Man...I've been searching for an overflow solution for my car. I just don't like the moroso and I think it's too small. I made a view window and when cool you can't see the coolant....when warm it starts to drip out of the overflow vent on the top...total POS.

What size is your bottle ?
Not sure off hand I know that LMR was selling that bottle at the time I just got it off eBay for half the cost
 
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ZephyrEFI

Member
Mar 9, 2019
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Pretty happy with how mine looks. The overflow tank fits on the Mark VIII fan like it belongs there! And the shroud covers most of the radiator. Just some small gaps to deal with.

fqRnnMh.jpg
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Pretty happy with how mine looks. The overflow tank fits on the Mark VIII fan like it belongs there! And the shroud covers most of the radiator. Just some small gaps to deal with.

fqRnnMh.jpg
That’s the fan to have ! Just don’t fit with my blower pulley, PS I love clean box tops !!!
 
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James V

Active Member
Feb 26, 2017
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What fan clutch should I buy? My ac currently doesnt work, eventually down the road I want it to. So should I buy the fan clutch with ac or without?
 

LX Dave

Active Member
Jul 2, 2017
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Fastdriver - Thank you for doing the research and math on this one. It really helps to clear things up.

So in reality, you can free up a few horsepower by going with a good quality e-fan, like the Mark VIII ones. But it really boils down to how much work and money a person wants to spend on their car to do this (personal preference). I have never had much luck with some of the aftermarket fans out there...maybe I was buying the wrong ones. I agree also that blade design can make or break a fan. Some of the ones I've had just had basic, thin, straight blades. Most of the factory ones I've seen are not that way. Like the pic in post #44, nice wide blades to pull a large amount of air...kind of like the clutched fans that came factory on these cars.

I also agree that Ford didn't do everything they could have with these cars compared to the modern stuff. I think at the time, at the rate the Foxes were selling, they just needed production numbers to keep up with sales and called it good. But, compared to my newer car, the Fox I have wins hands down in almost all areas. It's 30+ years old and still going strong, whereas my newer car has some bad engineering problems that I'll have to suck up and live with.
 

LX Dave

Active Member
Jul 2, 2017
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What fan clutch should I buy? My ac currently doesnt work, eventually down the road I want it to. So should I buy the fan clutch with ac or without?
If you plan to get the AC working in the future, I would get the clutch for that.
 
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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I've done back to back testing and picked up a pretty nice gain by removing the fan and going to underdrive pullies. So, I can't agree with this. Initially, I bought "Black Jack" with underdrive pullies, took them off for stockers, and then was forced to concede that the difference was worthwhile and put them back on. You can read about that in Black Jack's progress thread.
I don't think anyone argues that pulley's don't work.
The argument (for me at least) is that they aren't worth the headaches, especially on a car that has heads/cam/intake or more.

The pullies are good for like 5-8rwhp.

I've seen the fan removal tested (with a massive fan in front of the car) and it was a 4rwhp gain.

Let's just say on the high end the pulley's and fan net you 15rwhp. That is probably good for about .2.
Which is good, but is it good enough to justify the cooling and charging problems associated with the pulley's and the reliability issues people have with electric fans?
Paying $300-$500 for 5rwhp is not really a good investment, unless everything else you have is already high end.

On a stock car, it just isn't sensible financially.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
15 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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What's the difference between the 2?
When I replaced mine I ordered from LMR and ordered the heavy duty one since I'm from the south and AC runs almost all the time. They sent a standard duty. Both are just resold Four Seasons units so just order from Rock Auto if that suits you. They are interchangeable physically. I'd put the HD one on no matter what. LMR did go back and change their website since they were advertising the standard duty as heavy duty. That's how and why I learned the Four Seasons part numbers. Make sure and reference those online to make sure you are ordering the correct one. I trust no one I'm ordering from now. They constantly get stuff wrong.
 

67coupe

Founding Member
Apr 5, 2002
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Huntsville, AL
For those of you that have the motor trend app, engine masters tested this.

All losses were based on the baseline run without a fan. They even went to the trouble of mocking up a radiator and a shroud to fully load the fans.

Clutch driven fan: -14hp
Plastic flex: -24hp
Aluminum flex: -20hp
Steel fixed (like 60’s muscle cars): -30hp

This was a mild small block Chevy. Losses were measured at peak, which for this engine was 5100 to 5200 rpm. Losses would be higher as rpm increases.

To each his own, but for me it was a no brainer. Underdrives and e fan are easily worth 25 hp. Maybe more depending what underdrives are used. Plus the factory 2g alt was borderline to begin with.

I remember replacing my worn out fan clutch. The instant increase in noise and noticable seat of the pants loss in power had me planning the e fan and 3g upgrade immediately.

I daily drove my car (5.0 back then) with underdrives, 3g alt and a taurus fan for 10 years. I did upgrade the radiator when I went to aluminum heads. Never had a charging or overheating problem. Even hot lapped it at the strip a few times.

This was in the heat of central Alabama with the Ac on. Speaking of, I will say that idle AC performance decreased slightly, probably due to the underdrive pulleys. But to me it was worth it.

Another note, don’t waste your money on aftermarket fans. Ford OEM fans are much much stronger than just about anything in the aftermarket.

With the number of 3g alts and good quality fans (Taurus, contour, mark 8) at your local pick n pull, there’s no reason not to upgrade. Speaking of, I actually picked a contour and a mark 8 fan today for $100 total. Again, just my opinion.
 
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kendawg73

5 Year Member
Feb 5, 2014
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I'm going to be using a stock fan/clutch... when I got the car it had one of those flex fans....(which makes a hella lot of noise when you rev it) so I bought a new stock fan and new clutch... don't want no hassle/issues... stock fan/clutch is simple and works...
 
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John Dirks Jr

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Jun 28, 2013
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I just got a Contour fan assembly at Amazon. Dorman 620-104. "renewed", whatever that means. Probably an open box return. $71.

Now I'm seriously looking at the DCC controller. Does the DCC have provisions for kicking fans on high when AC compressor comes on?

I also want to move the battery to the back during this install. In that regard, what kind of wiring arrangement regarding the fan should I be looking to accomplish?