Thinking of ditching my e fans

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
4,278
1,115
214
Seaside, CA
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the coupe's trunk lid is up higher than the hatch. Whether or not it will fit, I haven't a clue. I'm just saying I'd never use a coupe as the baseline for the hatch.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
6,500
818
194
NJ
I had the Taylor in my hatch damn near forever. Full carpet, full padding. I even had the hatch cover over it. Only thing I had to do is cut the top off the studs so the retractable hatch cover didn't get cut on the bolts. I'd check or take pics, but I threw it out when I changed the carpet and changed the box to a black moroso.

What I don't remember is if the cover clipped the back corners all the way in the back. If it did, you certainly couldn't see it with the hatch down.
 

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
The Summit box it $69 and more compact. Other trim in my interior is black and so it the Summit box. As gaudy as it may look in black, I think aluminum would look worse.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: General karthief

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
I got the contour fan assembly in and I’m gonna do some bench testing on it. I see it has a resister built into the frame. Do I bypass that when installing with dcc control unit? What’s the resistor function in the stock contour application?
 

Sparky714

Active Member
Oct 16, 2015
193
91
48
55
North Dakota
631052
I got the contour fan assembly in and I’m gonna do some bench testing on it. I see it has a resister built into the frame. Do I bypass that when installing with dcc control unit? What’s the resistor function in the stock contour application?
Ditch the resistor and wire both fans in parallel to the DCC controller. Works perfect on mine, both fans ramp up and down as needed. If you're using the variable speed DCC controller with the Contour fans, you'll also need the input filter he offers to make low impedance fans work. No idea what the resistor was used for in the stock application.
 
Last edited:

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
Look at these pigtails i need for the Contour fan motors. They are #12awg. That should be sufficient for the short length just before the fan motors right? The DCC controller kit comes with #10awg for the remainder of run up to the controller. So, id splice the supplied 10 to the 12 on the fan motor pigtail. From the controller to the solenoid, i can even step it up to #8awg.

Only other way i can see is to scrounge some oem pigtails from a junk yard.

 

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
I decided against the aftermarket harness plugs. I went to the local pick yard and in the whole yard there was only one candidate. A 99 Countour. The top of the radiator support was crushed in so I had to go from underneath. Man that sucker was greasy underneath. But I got the harness plugs I needed. The wiring on these factory pieces is definitely hefty, especially the hot wire which is substantially thicker than the ground
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikestang63

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
6,567
6,298
234
S.I.NY
I decided against the aftermarket harness plugs. I went to the local pick yard and in the whole yard there was only one candidate. A 99 Countour. The top of the radiator support was crushed in so I had to go from underneath. Man that sucker was greasy underneath. But I got the harness plugs I needed. The wiring on these factory pieces is definitely hefty, especially the hot wire which is substantially thicker than the ground
Oem is great but i run those green pigtails they sell with no issue for 2 plus years already
 

Sparky714

Active Member
Oct 16, 2015
193
91
48
55
North Dakota
About how long does it take for them to ship once you've paid?
I think mine took 3 or 4 weeks. But I had a friend that just ordered one and he got it in a couple weeks. From what I've read, he builds them in batches. Just depends what he's got on hand when you order I guess. He's way better at building them than customer service. Mines worked flawless the couple years it's been installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Dirks Jr

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
Anyone have suggestions on the routing plan of battery cables from the hatch area to the solenoid? I also want to run a the neg all the way to the block.
 

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
2,337
920
174
55
Maryland
Thanks for posting that diagram. Although, it appears to show a car that has the solenoid on the starter. My solenoid is in the stock location drivers side engine compartment. That diagram also shows a cutoff switch which i don't plan to install.

Im going to start a new thread on my battery relocate. Meanwhile, this pic below is what ill probably do. The optional line, and im thinking ill run it through the interior. Ill go behind the rear side panel, under the rear seat, under the carpet along the trans tunnel, exit the interior about half way up the firewall and into the engine compartment. Once in the engine compartment ill cross the firewall to the drivers side and tap the solenoid. Ive already got a massive alt cable like shown in the image below. Ive mocked it up and it looks fairly easy.

38E5FADE-A5FA-4CDB-A1E0-021C852DD3FF.png