Thinking of ditching my e fans

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Blown88GT

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Someone said earlier that the Mark VIII fan pulls more than a stock clutch fan. I suppose that's possible, but I really doubt it without seeing the numbers. 4k CFM, which I think is a high estimate, might be enough airflow to get the job done, but I'll bet the stock fan still pulls more. I could open the door, reach under my car, and feel the airflow from the stock fan when I revved. Stock fan moves some SERIOUS air. So, I'm skeptical that's only the proclaims 3k CFM or that an electric fan actually moves 4k. I've heard these numbers for a long time, but I don't put a ton of faith into them, even though I know both approaches get the job done.
Here's the data from DCC testing on the Mark VIII fan with the FK-35 controller.
3518in2.gif
 
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FastDriver

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That's a solid data point. I guess it leaves me with more questions than answers:
- How big a difference does voltage play?
- How much does it drop compared to a clutch fan when hooked up to a radiator/condenser/intercooler?
- How much does the stock clutch fan actually pull?

Thanks for the info. I'm more curious than ever, now. Is it in my head that the airflow from the clutch fan is A LOT higher?

Anyways, I'm happy with the twin spals, the Mark VIII, and the clutch fan on each of my 3 foxes.
 

95BlueStallion

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My only input is that I am running my stock clutch fan on a 10.2:1 347 stroker with an SVE radiator, and it maintains 195 degrees while idling for extended periods, and also during stop and go in town driving. Went to the tuner’s Friday afternoon for three hours, and it was 92 degrees out. I am also currently running a stock alternator, and have zero charge issues. I don’t plan to fix what ain’t broke, but won’t hate on anyone who does. For me, stock works.
 

John Dirks Jr

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I think we should recognize that tests on various fans are done under controlled conditions. This probably includes unrestricted source of air.

In the real world there are restrictions. They include vehicle structure, ac condensers, various forms of radiators and shrouds.

Considering the variables in the real world, a fan that moves more air in a controlled testing environment is not automatically going to move more air through the radiator or engine compartment of a given vehicle.

So I think it’s possible for a fan that moves less air in a test can provide equal cooling benefits, in the real world.
 

stanglx2002

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I personally went back to the stock clutch fan due to many cooling issues I had over the years on my 331. I have run the them all over the years black magic, SN95, Mark VII, and Contour fans. The biggest issue with them all is the power draw on the system, and our 30 year old wiring. Of course many have been able to do well with them, but I had nothing but issues. The stock fan is completely dead reliable as I still DD my Mustang in 90+ degree heat in 1+ hour traffic with no issues at all compared to staring at the temp gauge making sure the fans turn on.

From my research, the stock clutch fan runs about 3000-3300 CFM but thats internet talk as well. I just know that from my personal experience the stock clutch fan pulls a :poo: ton of air.
 

Noobz347

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"renewed", whatever that means.
It means it's a refurb.

I also want to move the battery to the back during this install. In that regard, what kind of wiring arrangement regarding the fan should I be looking to accomplish?
This of course, can be done but I question its value for anything not headed to the track. If it's not a sealed battery, it should be vented. The cables should be very large, and a fuse or breaker should be installed along with a battery disconnect. I also don't like having them in the back of a hatch. I'm about to remove the one in the 89 (I bought it this way) and put it back under the hood.

Fox wiring and harnesses were never great. Now they're not great and really old. :nonono:

Finally, the DCC controller that I have, allows for a couple of ways to make the fans go high when the A/C is on. The simplest is an override circuit that you could trigger any number of ways to include the A/C clutch ground wire.
 

Steel1

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I originally switched to electric fans because of my many supercharger set-ups, also upgraded to 3g alternator.
I have been n/a for a few years now but have kept the e-fans, been running 2000 Dodge Intrepid dual fans with
Flexalite VSC33054 controller for 10+ years now.
I've had good luck with the set-up, I'm on my second controller first one lasted about 7-8yrs. then fried good thing I
was close to home.
 

2000xp8

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This of course, can be done but I question its value for anything not headed to the track. If it's not a sealed battery, it should be vented. The cables should be very large, and a fuse or breaker should be installed along with a battery disconnect. I also don't like having them in the back of a hatch. I'm about to remove the one in the 89 (I bought it this way) and put it back under the hood.
I'm a believer.
Especially with drag radials. Track or no track, imo it works.
It takes weight from the front drivers side and puts on the rear tire that does the bulk of the work.
I do agree that it is a bit of pain. Regardless, i can't go back, my intercooler tank was made to fit in the stock battery tray.

While i do say it works, if i had another car, would i do it? I'm not so sure about that.
 

FastDriver

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All day, all night. Battery to rear. Weight's in the right place, and frees up room in the engine bay. I think I have 00 gauge wire run back to it. The cutoff switch is behind the license plate on both of my turbo cars. Only thing I don't like is the :poo:ty looking blue plastic boxes. I think I'll eventually put a nicer box around them.
 

2000xp8

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All day, all night. Battery to rear. Weight's in the right place, and frees up room in the engine bay. I think I have 00 gauge wire run back to it. The cutoff switch is behind the license plate on both of my turbo cars. Only thing I don't like is the :poo:ty looking blue plastic boxes. I think I'll eventually put a nicer box around them.
I had a taylor aluminum and switched it out for a black moroso.
 

FastDriver

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I had a taylor aluminum and switched it out for a black moroso.
Yep... Moroso. That's what I have except in blue, on both cars. The top latches don't work anymore, the plastic scratches easy, and frankly plastic just feels cheap and worthless. Why did you dislike the taylor?
 

2000xp8

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Yep... Moroso. That's what I have except in blue, on both cars. The top latches don't work anymore, the plastic scratches easy, and frankly plastic just feels cheap and worthless. Why did you dislike the taylor?
I didn't like the metal which increased the chances of a short to ground when jump starting or charging.
Also didn't care for the how the wires with crimped ends passed through the case, i always felt like the grommets were going to shift and the wires could get cut on the metal. It probably isn't a big deal if you use bolt on ends, but i never really liked them.

Not many ways for me to scratch it, even so if i did, i'd be the only one to see it.
 

Blown88GT

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That's a solid data point. I guess it leaves me with more questions than answers:
1 - How big a difference does voltage play?
2 - How much does it drop compared to a clutch fan when hooked up to a radiator/condenser/intercooler?
3 - How much does the stock clutch fan actually pull?

Thanks for the info. I'm more curious than ever, now. Is it in my head that the airflow from the clutch fan is A LOT higher?

Anyways, I'm happy with the twin spals, the Mark VIII, and the clutch fan on each of my 3 foxes.
1. More voltage --> less current needed. DCC did a lot of testing & analysis & he still hold the controller patent & licenses it to Derale.
2. You mean air flow? Don't know. You can't just look at current & voltage. It's an electric motor with a fan attached to the rotating shaft. The shape of the fan blades has as much to do with the air flow as anything. The Mark VIII, SN95 have a very unique shape, the leading edge is the concave edge, the trailing edge is the convex edge. Airplane propellers have been in continuous design evolution for over 100 years & jet engines for over 60. All the air flow innovations are there.
3. Only Ford knows.

DCC might have data on the stock clutch fan.
 
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John Dirks Jr

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I'm working on increasing traction so I can more fully enjoy the hp I'm producing. Right now I can forget any substantial throttle in 1st, and also 1/2 of 2nd. 3rd and 4th are a sheer joy. I'd like to get the joy factor into the lower gears. Moving the battery is not all I can do, I know. Loosing weight helps but if I cant loose it, moving it to the back is then next best thing. Better tires are in the future but what I have now are not garbage. I can also loose at least 70lbs off the front and still keep all current faculties. I'm gonna ditch my huge boat anchor radiator and fan assembly for a lighter setup. I can loose 20lbs there easy. Then loose another 50lbs with tubular K member and the related goodies. Some will say, not worth it...bla bla bla. But this is my hobby, so it's what I do.

I looked at the Taylor box but its 11+ inches tall. Looks like it might be a clearance problem in the far rear of the hatch and may not let the lid close. I still have the padding and carpet obviously so that reduces my height clearance. I'm sure the Taylor would fit in a track car hatch with the carpet and padding removed but that aint my car.

The summit box is 9.5" ext height and will fit far aft not problem. Actually Summit makes two different size boxes and Id be going for the smaller one. My stock size battery fits within.
 

TOOLOW91

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I'm working on increasing traction so I can more fully enjoy the hp I'm producing. Right now I can forget any substantial throttle in 1st, and also 1/2 of 2nd. 3rd and 4th are a sheer joy. I'd like to get the joy factor into the lower gears. Moving the battery is not all I can do, I know. Loosing weight helps but if I cant loose it, moving it to the back is then next best thing. Better tires are in the future but what I have now are not garbage. I can also loose at least 70lbs off the front and still keep all current faculties. I'm gonna ditch my huge boat anchor radiator and fan assembly for a lighter setup. I can loose 20lbs there easy. Then loose another 50lbs with tubular K member and the related goodies. Some will say, not worth it...bla bla bla. But this is my hobby, so it's what I do.

I looked at the Taylor box but its 11+ inches tall. Looks like it might be a clearance problem in the far rear of the hatch and may not let the lid close. I still have the padding and carpet obviously so that reduces my height clearance. I'm sure the Taylor would fit in a track car hatch with the carpet and padding removed but that aint my car.

The summit box is 9.5" ext height and will fit far aft not problem. Actually Summit makes two different size boxes and Id be going for the smaller one. My stock size battery fits within.
I have the Taylor box In my coupe and the trunk closes . No reason why it won’t fit in your hatch .
 

John Dirks Jr

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I have the Taylor box In my coupe and the trunk closes . No reason why it won’t fit in your hatch .
The hatch has trim panel on the interior. Maybe that protrudes more than a standard coupe lid. And your carpet and padding in the coupe trunk floor probably is not as thick as the hatch floor. I measured and the space is less than 11" high. And the Taylor box is over 11" high. That spells clearance problem to me.
 

TOOLOW91

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The hatch has trim panel on the interior. Maybe that protrudes more than a standard coupe lid. And your carpet and padding in the coupe trunk floor probably is not as thick as the hatch floor. I measured and the space is less than 11" high. And the Taylor box is over 11" high. That spells clearance problem to me.
I’ve had 2 hatches as well . I’ve also seen the Taylor box in a hatch before . This box actually came out of nicks ttop car . It was on the shelf in the shop . I thought they made a few diff sizes .

All my carpet and stuff is cut around the box . Box is mounted directly to the floor