People argue but it depends on tune, power adder, and I'm sure plenty of factors along with some luck. 450-550 IMO.
I'm trying to find numbers on header primary and collector lengths but can't find anything on google nor does BBK provide that information. I just called them.
I've never thought about those lengths other than understanding the difference in primary diameter. He must be talking about the overall length from the primary down to the collector. Just text him to ask but asking here too. Wondering if you guys have inquired about that when looking for headers lol?
He said 35-36 inches long primaries and not 30-31 inches
Collector length 16-18 inches and not 7-10 inches
Just had another conversation with him about a 347 as well as a 427 and the longevity of those cars as to rod length and stroke will not be really reliable. He said sure he can build a 408 or 410 but using a 4 " stroke is not what he'd recommend vs a 3.750 crank and talked about the advantages of the shorter crank. Ultimately he has always said building via big bore vs stroke is the way to go but understands for what I want to do a stock block is more wise.
He said if he did the 408 or 410 he'd use a brodix 17 degree head and that a 220 in it vs a 220 in a 20 degree head is huge difference. If I stick with the 3.750 crank (385 c.i.) I'd likely just do the AFR 185 or the brodix 17 degree 190.
so still thinking
He said if he did the 408 or 410 he'd use a brodix 17 degree head and that a 220 in it vs a 220 in a 20 degree head is huge difference. If I stick with the 3.750 crank (385 c.i.) I'd likely just do the AFR 185 or the brodix 17 degree 190.
so still thinking
The failures aren't typically related to the main bearings, the block splits through the lifter valley. I imagine in the old days a cast-iron intake manifold bolted to cast-iron heads would have helped hold things together a bit. High rpm and high-lift cams seem to contribute from what I've gathered over the years. I've likewise been putting 400+ to the rear wheels since 2009 without issues, so it's probably somewhere north of that. I do run the stock cam with the turbo however.
hey in relations to what you just said, what size cold air pipe would I need 3" or 4" or either? Depending on which I find/have to buy new or used depending on availability , I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything to negatively affect drivability and low end torque which will be the ultimate goal and not high end hp/torque. Don't get me wrong it would be nice to have ALL lol but I realize to have the latter It'll be sacrificing down low.
Give me the scenario in on when should I use a 3 3 1/2 inch pipe instead of a 4-inch pipe? I'm thinking for is going to be Overkill and may hurt
That's why I'm trying to figure out is there a formula to figure out exactly what size pipe you need? I mean many guys have done it before so do they just go by what people say hey get this get that don't get this don't get that LOL? I wish we can pretty much take your intended combination and match everything up according to cfm's of whatever to get the right thing
Thats going to be scientific mathematical stuff with a bit of velocity/turbulence theory tossed in. WAY above my pay grade.
i can tell you that the air needs to be able to move smoothly but not be lazy about it. In reality if you size the tube to the throttle body just a little bigger and keep the tube size into and out of the maf the same on a mildly modified street engine you'll be good.
i can tell you that the air needs to be able to move smoothly but not be lazy about it. In reality if you size the tube to the throttle body just a little bigger and keep the tube size into and out of the maf the same on a mildly modified street engine you'll be good.