Timing issue??

Busaboy · Oct 13, 2019

Ok guys I am new here so first let me introduce myself, my name is Robert, I live in Schenectady, NY. I have a 1991 foxbody that I started building in 2013. I bought it with a lot of work to be done so pulled the motor and had it bored out .40 over. I got a bigger throttle body, deleted the smog, egr, etc...pretty much all new everything on top except the heads. The guy I got it from said they were these great heads. I Got a chip from BAMA, got it all together and fired her up. Timing was a pain in the butt, but, eventually got it. I took it down the road about an hour and it flooded out on me. Come to find out, the heads were for a flat tappet motor, so I bought some jr Windsor heads.

2 days later my wife passed away, and so the mustang sat. For 6 years.

I just got back into her, I drained the gas, got new fuel injectors, filter and 93 octane gas. Got the heads on, set to zero lash +1/4 turn. New distributor set at 10 and 14 degrees, spark plug and wires.

When I start her up she backfires a bit through the intake spin the distributor doesn’t really change much she will sit and idle, but if I give her any gas she falls on her face and stalls. I’ve checked the IAC with multimeter and it’s at 9ohms. I found it should be between 7 and 14 ohms but, while she is idling and I unplug it there is no change. Could it be bad even though it’s in range ohm wise??

What gets me is that all I did was change the heads and before that it ran great (yes 6 years ago) what could I be missing? Should I time it without the BAMA chip installed? I just don’t know! It’s been driving me crazy for two days now. Can someone please help? Sorry this is so long.

General karthief · Oct 13, 2019

Some basic efi stuff here. #1 thing is put the bama chip on the shelf right now, you can install it after you get it running if you want but I think you likely don't need it, but that is just my opinion.
Sounds like the rubber hose on the pump in the tank has failed, happens when the sit for years. Check your fuel pressure with a gauge.
Look here for more help:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

forums.stangnet.com

Read through it to get an understanding and do it step by step, take notes and let us know in this thread how it goes or if you have any questions

Busaboy · Oct 14, 2019

General karthief said:
Some basic efi stuff here. #1 thing is put the bama chip on the shelf right now, you can install it after you get it running if you want but I think you likely don't need it, but that is just my opinion.
Sounds like the rubber hose on the pump in the tank has failed, happens when the sit for years. Check your fuel pressure with a gauge.
Look here for more help:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

forums.stangnet.com

Read through it to get an understanding and do it step by step, take notes and let us know in this thread how it goes or if you have any questions

I will and thanks. I heard from a guy on a Facebook forum that if a sensor isn’t plugged in it will put the ecm into limp mode? Any truth to that? My bmw does that but it’s also a much newer vehicle.
Anyway, I will follow your advice and go step by step and take notes. Thanks again

a91what · Oct 14, 2019

Step1: dont listen to anything you hear on bookface, likely it is hearsay and not based on any factual reasoning.

Step2: use the troubleshooting guide above.

the only difference in the head for a flat tappet cam is the springs the head would be exactly the same. Many a person has deleted the smog stuff without an issue. The BAMA chip is likely the cause of your problems the best place i have found for them is the trash.

Busaboy · Oct 14, 2019

Real quick, at the very top of the piston on compression stroke this is where I’m at. Is this right?

General karthief · Oct 14, 2019

It should be at 0*, move the adjustable pointer to 0*, make sure the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Both valves closed)

Busaboy · Oct 14, 2019

General karthief said:
It should be at 0*, move the adjustable pointer to 0*, make sure the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Both valves closed)

The one on the distributor?

General karthief · Oct 14, 2019

0* on the harmonic balancer

Busaboy · Oct 14, 2019

Thanks a lot for your time General, unfortunately I got mixed up in a few other things I wanted to do. I figured as long as I have the upper intake off (found a oil leak on drivers side coming from valve cover, got twisted up somehow) I got rid of the heater tubes and hooked up the relay for electric fans. It’s all back together now and set to TDC (I moved the pointer) but it’s now 11:30 and although I own the building I live in, I have 4 apartments and don’t wanna tick anyone off, so I’ll get back to it tomorrow morning. I’ll see where I’m at timing wise and see if moving it to where it is did anything.

I also tested the IAC with a 9 volt battery, it works and I’m getting around 25psi at the Schrader valve. Like I said we’ll see where I’m at in the am and if nothings changed, I’ll run down that list.

Let me know what you think of my heater tube delete, was thinking of using another T to run a small hose to the back of the intake to keep the water moving so I get a good read on the temp, what do you think?

Thanks again

General karthief · Oct 15, 2019

I always wanted to own a really big building, you can't have enough stuff
although most of my stuff is useless

Busaboy · Oct 16, 2019

General karthief said:
I always wanted to own a really big building, you can't have enough stuff
although most of my stuff is useless

Hey bud really strange thing, I got it to TDC set it nothing wouldn’t run. So for s and giggles, I used the non HO firing order started right up. It would idle high and when I put the cai on it ran till I plugged in the maf then it died. So for more shots and giggles, I changed the firing order to the HO and again started right up. Put the cai on plugged in the mag and she stalled. Unplug it runs fine. Take the cai off and plug in the maf, runs fine!! What the heck??

Ps. Took it out and likes to stall out every once in a while

General karthief · Oct 16, 2019

Pull the passenger kick panel and see what computer is there.

Busaboy · Oct 16, 2019

It says 1993

General karthief · Oct 16, 2019

There were still speed density computers in 93, some vehicles had non ho firing orders. A pic of the part numbers
also I read you have 25 psi at the schrader valve, that is your fuel pressure? Should be around 32-4 psi with the vacuum line hooked up. 42-5 with the vacuum line off,

Busaboy · Oct 16, 2019

So she’s all back together. For s and giggles I used the non HO firing order and she started right up. When I hooked up the maf she died, unplug runs good. Funny thing I 1 went back to the HO firing order just to see and she still runs, but the maf still makes her stall. When I leave it plugged in but take off the cai, she continues to run all in all she runs and that’s good, took her down the road and she would stall out every once in a while but she goes sideways no problem. Next I need to tackle some wiring issues I’m having and need to get all new door locking mechanisms, the locks are jammed up for some reason. Well she ain’t beautiful, but here’s some photos of how she’s looking. Thanks for yalls input!!

General karthief · Oct 17, 2019

Is that an aftermarket maf sensor of just a sticker? And that stack of sensors and senders behind the alternator?
you still got some stuff to work out, have you checked for codes since putting it back together?
What injector size?
you also need some space between the maf and the filter like 5 or 6" of pipe, if you can find a stock air box they work better than people think.

a91what · Oct 17, 2019

The maf will not function correctly without the airbox or an extension on the end of that maf sensor.

Busaboy · Oct 17, 2019

Finally got it to where it runs without popping through the intake but have to keep slight pressure on the gas pedal or she quits.
I ran the keor or whatnot test, not running I got code:
67 neutral drive switch or circuit??
81 thermactor air circuit
82 Integrated controller circuit
85 canister purge circulator or trans shift control (5 speed for me)
84 egr control unit ( that stuff is all gone)
96 fuel pump circuit ( I have mine hard wired to a switch)

Are any of these my issue??
I can not run the test while the car is running the check engine just stays on.

I am going to order a new maf but the one I have is calibrated to 24# injectors. Will a stock one work? Also can I just replace the sensor from the top of my cai? I know y’all said I need like 6” of tubing in front of the sensor but when it was running, good, it was set the same exact way. Not really sure why the car runs with it unplugged but does when it’s plugged in. Isn’t it supposed to be the other way around lol‍
Let me hear your thoughts. Thanks again

General karthief · Oct 17, 2019

I take it the charcoal canister is gone? Or not hooked up?
you need to fix the fuel pump switch thing, why do you have it on a switch?

Busaboy · Oct 18, 2019

General karthief said:
I take it the charcoal canister is gone? Or not hooked up?
you need to fix the fuel pump switch thing, why do you have it on a switch?

Yes all egr stuff is gone. The fuel pump is wired to a switch on my console along with electric fan and water pump. My fuel pressure is at 38-40psi, tested it tonight.

Timing issue??

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