TKO install problems

Well the good news is I think I found my problem!! The bad news....My FRPP aluminum ds is bent! He said it's off by 50 thousandths about 9" back from the transmission. Welp, time to see if I can find my stock ds!
 
hey i'll send you a stock one for the alum. one.....

On another note, i have gotten rid of my vibrations due to flipping the crossmember, as i had it in backwards, i have little to no vibration anymore, and I not as aggrevated with it driving around and feeling it pulse...

thanks for the links etc. in here, after reversing the crossmember to the correct position, i remeasured everything and it changed the installed height of the trans by 3/4" overall.... maybe this info would help someone else down the line.



jason
 
Jason, not sure why you would want a bent driveshaft, but I'll sell it cheap. I found my stock one, so no trade. :)

I just ran it with the stock ds, but the vibration is still there. Possibly not as bad, but still there. It could still be out of balance, so I'll try to get this one balanced sometime this week before I try anything else. I just hope nothing breaks on the dyno tomorrow...
 
I'm starting to get a little concerned because I want to swap my 95 auto to a TKO. I have the TKO600 already installed behind a 460 in my 85.
About the shifter location being forward, I always heard that the 94-95 cars had the tranny sitting a little farther back so when you install a Tremec is moves the shifter up an inch causing it to be much closer to the dash area.
Can you guys piece me together a list of what I should get to make this work. I want to make sure this works right the first time and its sound.
Maybe we should all work together to make a list or parts, things to do and check for. Like a check list of things during install so that people can just follow that. Right now, it seems people are just throwing up ideas and it seems every car is different which shouldnt really be that way. There has to be a straight forward way that works with most cars that eliminates the problems we are having.
 
We would like it to be that straight forward and that simple but its not. Feel free to go through that thread on corral as i think it has hit every "possibility" on what has been wrong or could be wrong and make a list from that. We have hit most of the parts in here.

I think your best bet is to make sure everything is as close to stock as possible....from the block to the rear end.
 
It can be difficult to piece together all the info from these threads because its bounced around so many different ways and stuff. I think it would help more if a step by step direction was applied to the process without skipping any steps. Its hard to screw up if you follow correct directions. Plus, I still think most of these pitfalls can be avoided if a correct direction is followed.
Like, theoretically if the motor is sitting square, the bell is centered, tranny torqued down right, the correct crossmember used and facing the right way, you use the correct mount facing the right way, all mounts and bushings are good, the tranny is still in the stock angle, and the driveshaft is balanced correctly then there isnt really a chance to have a vibration unless we are missing something.
 
Running on the dyno today, I noticed a slight vibration between 80mph and 90mph, but it smooths out above that. Should I worry about that little bit of a vibration? A new (balanced) ds might even smooth it out anyway...
 
Mike... Are you going to share the dyno numbers or do I have to wait for for thr grand unveiling?

Just kidding. I hope you hit the dyno hard and left it in a pile of smoldering ashes!!!!

Lee
 
I just read through this thread again and I realized I forgot to have my stock ds balanced, and I havn't got my new ds yet. :bang: Anyways, the vibration seems to be getting worse, so I decided Im going to pull the tranny and index the bellhousing again.

I went ahead and tried my idea of putting the stock dowel pins back in...That was a waste of a day. :rolleyes: Now it's shaking at 70mph instead of 85. So I allready have a set of .007 pins, and Im going to order a set of .014 pins just in case I need them and tear into the car in 2 weeks. If I have enough cash, Im gonna go ahead and get that new ds too.
 
I indexed the bellhousing again over the weekend. I checked it 3 times and the needle never moved more than .05 all the way around. I still have a slight vibration, but it's back to 80-85mph and not nearly as bad. I will be replacing the ds next weekend I think, and Im hoping that fixes it.

On a side note, now that the trans is broke in this car is sooo much fun to run through the gears. I'll probably end up getting myself in trouble one of these days :D
 
nmcgrawj said:
Just incase, im pretty sure the 96 cobra driveshaft is a direct swap with the right yoke on it.


I'm 100 percent sure. It's 96 and up period that fits, you don't even need it for a Cobra. I put one on my car when I busted my driveshaft in FFW Houston.... the T45 had a 31 spline output regardless of DOHC or SOHC...
 
Replaced the driveshaft and the vibration is still there. :( I really thought that was going to fix it since I found out my stock ds was bent too. So, what's next on the list? Im thinking it may be the pinion angle, but how do I adjust that? Will changing the rear springs change the pinion angle? Cuz I can throw my stock springs on to see if that helps...
 
if you put the stock springs in the pinion angle should return to stock, dependant upon the height of the output shaft on the new trans versus the t-5. The only other way to adjust the pinion angle is to buy adjustable upper control arms(IIRC)

jason
 
I didn't read all the posts (Got bored after the second page) but have you tried going to a stock mount instead of the polyurethane one. When I installed my TKO500 with the polyurethane mount I hated it. There was a ton of vibration. I went to ford, got a new tranny mount and it was a million times better. Just a thought that might help you out.