torquing intake to alum. Heads
- Thread starter Blue347stang
- Start date
86Cobra
Founding Member
22-25 ft-lbs. Torque the inside bolts first, outside last. Go through the whole sequence three or four times until they're all tight.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Mine seals up just fine at 18 ft-lbs. Be sure you use the proper bolt sequence (manual). You can't start in the middle and "X" your way to the ends as might be assumed - doing so will leave the middle bolts loose once you get out to the end. There's no reason to use any more than 10 ft-lbs on the upper.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
You should use helicoils in those holes, or have them welded and re-drilled/tapped. There won't be an easy fix for those. It's best done with heads off the car. I wouldn't waste my time with the liquids, goops, jbwelds, etc. If you want it done correctly, it's gonna take some time/money.
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
cardudeusa
Founding Member
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I prefer a thread sealer on anything that has a chance of coming in contact with either coolant or oil. I use ARP moly thread lube/sealer on bolts going into the head. The exception is header bolts - they get too hot for anything but antiseize. In fact, I believe they actually get too hot for antiseize to do any good as well, but it's worth a try.
cardudeusa
Founding Member
Where do you get that lube from? I'm putting on a set of Edelbrock heads and want to make sure I do everything right.
Iowa91LX
Founding Member
You can get ARP Moly Lube from Summit or ARP themselves.
As far as going into aluminum heads, never go more than 18ftlbs. I always go to 18ftlbs on mine. I was told by DSS that if you go to the factory torque rating it will actually start to lift the aluminum head off the blokc a little ways. Since the aluminum is lightweight it will actually do this(given it is very very little) and then you will stand the chance of blowing head gaskets.
It sounds impossible but even if its not true, 18ftlbs still holds up just fine and less of a chance of pulling the threds out of the head.
Another suggestion. Run your tap and then get as long of a bolt that fits in the hole. Make it go all the way to the bottom of the hole and hopefully there is enough threads at the bottom to grab Just be careful not to bottom the bolt out before hitting your torque spec.
I use antiseeze on all my bolts/fastners that thread into aluminum(upper-lower, lower to head, sparkplugs) Just dotn get antiseeze on the sparkplug tip, then you'll have a completly different problem.
As far as going into aluminum heads, never go more than 18ftlbs. I always go to 18ftlbs on mine. I was told by DSS that if you go to the factory torque rating it will actually start to lift the aluminum head off the blokc a little ways. Since the aluminum is lightweight it will actually do this(given it is very very little) and then you will stand the chance of blowing head gaskets.
It sounds impossible but even if its not true, 18ftlbs still holds up just fine and less of a chance of pulling the threds out of the head.
Another suggestion. Run your tap and then get as long of a bolt that fits in the hole. Make it go all the way to the bottom of the hole and hopefully there is enough threads at the bottom to grab Just be careful not to bottom the bolt out before hitting your torque spec.
I use antiseeze on all my bolts/fastners that thread into aluminum(upper-lower, lower to head, sparkplugs) Just dotn get antiseeze on the sparkplug tip, then you'll have a completly different problem.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
cardudeusa
Founding Member
Michael Yount said:
I just picked up one that is sold at my work. It says engine assemble lube, with mony-graphie. Made by CRC, this is about the same right?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Sounds like it's for cams/bearings and such. Will probably lube the threads just fine; but won't seal them. The stuff I'm describing is designed to stay pliable - not set up - so that when you try to remove them later, they generally come right out.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Also - if you use moly lube on threads, you can reduce the amount of torque needed to get the proper clamping force because of reduced friction in the threads. With moly lube, 16-18 ft-lbs. is all that's needed on the lower.
cardudeusa
Founding Member
Ok, so I'll keep the lube I got because it was only a few bucks, I will put it on the valve train or something. So is this what I need then? http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1378&prmenbr=361
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Now you got it! That stuff is fabulous, I use it on nearly everything but exhaust components (too hot). I also use it on plumbing fittings around the house. It's really good stuff.
