torquing intake to alum. Heads

Blue347stang · May 4, 2004

Does anybody know how much lbs. I should apply when installing a lower intake to aluminium Heads?

86Cobra · May 4, 2004

22-25 ft-lbs. Torque the inside bolts first, outside last. Go through the whole sequence three or four times until they're all tight.

Michael Yount · May 4, 2004

Mine seals up just fine at 18 ft-lbs. Be sure you use the proper bolt sequence (manual). You can't start in the middle and "X" your way to the ends as might be assumed - doing so will leave the middle bolts loose once you get out to the end. There's no reason to use any more than 10 ft-lbs on the upper.

xplo89gt · May 4, 2004

Yup listen to Michael.
I'm in the middle of doing this as well.

On my tfs upper i pretty much do it slightly more than hand tight. The way the bolts go in I can only measure the torque on the middle two.

Blue347stang · May 7, 2004

Ok I used my manuals way of tighting the lower intake. One more thing, the people who put my engine together about 2 years ago, striped about 3 thread holes so now my lower intake leaks oil from the rear, How can I fix the threads? Can I use thread sealant or lock, silicon,ect...

Michael Yount · May 7, 2004

You should use helicoils in those holes, or have them welded and re-drilled/tapped. There won't be an easy fix for those. It's best done with heads off the car. I wouldn't waste my time with the liquids, goops, jbwelds, etc. If you want it done correctly, it's gonna take some time/money.

DMAN302 · May 7, 2004

Are the head bolts stripped or the block itself?

Grn92LX · May 7, 2004

I do 22 ft/lbs on mine in the sequence and I keep going a few times till their all 22 ft/lbs.

Rick 91GT · May 7, 2004

I use 18fts with alum heads, I pulled thread at 21ftlbs on my old Holleys...

If the head hole is stripped try running a tap back through the hole to clean up the threads, it may grab enough to seal.

Blue347stang · May 7, 2004

DMAN302 said:
Are the head bolts stripped or the block itself?

The thread holes on the head are stripped but only 3. I'll try retaping them lets see what happens.Thanx ya'll

cardudeusa · May 7, 2004

Arent you suposed to use anti-sieze on the aluminum heads also?

Michael Yount · May 7, 2004

I prefer a thread sealer on anything that has a chance of coming in contact with either coolant or oil. I use ARP moly thread lube/sealer on bolts going into the head. The exception is header bolts - they get too hot for anything but antiseize. In fact, I believe they actually get too hot for antiseize to do any good as well, but it's worth a try.

cardudeusa · May 8, 2004

Where do you get that lube from? I'm putting on a set of Edelbrock heads and want to make sure I do everything right.

Iowa91LX · May 8, 2004

You can get ARP Moly Lube from Summit or ARP themselves.

As far as going into aluminum heads, never go more than 18ftlbs. I always go to 18ftlbs on mine. I was told by DSS that if you go to the factory torque rating it will actually start to lift the aluminum head off the blokc a little ways. Since the aluminum is lightweight it will actually do this(given it is very very little) and then you will stand the chance of blowing head gaskets.
It sounds impossible but even if its not true, 18ftlbs still holds up just fine and less of a chance of pulling the threds out of the head.

Another suggestion. Run your tap and then get as long of a bolt that fits in the hole. Make it go all the way to the bottom of the hole and hopefully there is enough threads at the bottom to grab Just be careful not to bottom the bolt out before hitting your torque spec.

I use antiseeze on all my bolts/fastners that thread into aluminum(upper-lower, lower to head, sparkplugs) Just dotn get antiseeze on the sparkplug tip, then you'll have a completly different problem.

Michael Yount · May 8, 2004

Picked up the ARP moly lube/sealer at my local hi-perf. shop.

cardudeusa · May 8, 2004

Michael Yount said:
Picked up the ARP moly lube/sealer at my local hi-perf. shop.

I just picked up one that is sold at my work. It says engine assemble lube, with mony-graphie. Made by CRC, this is about the same right?

Michael Yount · May 8, 2004

Sounds like it's for cams/bearings and such. Will probably lube the threads just fine; but won't seal them. The stuff I'm describing is designed to stay pliable - not set up - so that when you try to remove them later, they generally come right out.

Michael Yount · May 8, 2004

Also - if you use moly lube on threads, you can reduce the amount of torque needed to get the proper clamping force because of reduced friction in the threads. With moly lube, 16-18 ft-lbs. is all that's needed on the lower.

cardudeusa · May 8, 2004

Ok, so I'll keep the lube I got because it was only a few bucks, I will put it on the valve train or something. So is this what I need then? http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1378&prmenbr=361

Michael Yount · May 8, 2004

Now you got it! That stuff is fabulous, I use it on nearly everything but exhaust components (too hot). I also use it on plumbing fittings around the house. It's really good stuff.

torquing intake to alum. Heads

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