True, but how would you know?
Give me 5 mins and I can lightly machine down the partial VIN on the block (it's lightly stamped) and apply my own stamps to make a new block "matching numbers". Same with the trans. 5 mins with the gauge pod cluster and I can make it read any mileage you want.
Given that, i'm not going to pay a premium for a matching numbers car vs a clean one with a good healthy 302 in it. Do i want an original car? Yes, but i'm not going to pay $40K for a low mileage premium car over $20K for one with clean, but higher mileage one with a replacement engine.
I place value on workmanship. I don't mind modifications, but they need to be high value mods, and installed correctly. Wiring is a HUGE turn-off for me if i go look at a car and see exposed butt splices in an area which may see water (not like i drive in the rain) or even worse....wirenuts.
4 to 8 swaps don't bother me if done right. That means right wiring harnesses used, right brackets and connections, right hardware, etc. Same with AOD to t5 swaps.
Isn't this thread about TFS170's on a 302 vs 331?
Myself and @95BlueStallion build are pretty similar. He did the TFS170, ported GT40 on a 347 short block. I did the same on a 302. Different cams, but curious to see how the dyno numbers compare.
From my set up, I feel I left about 60-70 HP on the table by using the TW170's and N41 cam on my 347. My torque number was pretty good though so I'm not too upset, especially since it's mainly a street car. I'm basing this info on the fact that I've seen properly set up 347's get about 420-430 RWHP where I'm at 360. I could be wrong on those numbers as I'm going by internet postings on the HP numbers for a 347. This is NA, no power adders.
Slightly used garage queen 93 Cobras, low mileage weekend cars with all the documentation, and special venue cars, are worth a really good bit. I've said before that high mileage, well driven 93 Cobras don't command much of a price premium. It's not because they aren't desirable. It's just that that the pool of enthusiasts is rather small and there are (relative to many other collectable cars) a large number of them that have been squirreled away.
That Coyote conversion that Karthief listed above? It's worth more now than it was as a high mileage 93 Cobra
On the heads vs displacement conversation:
Any time you're dealing with air mass and pumps, there is always a bell curve.
Changing the displacement and pulling the air through the same size ports will look something like this.
Eventually, airflow through the port will become so turbulent that more mass isn't possible without an exponential increase in force.
It is of course, a matter of diminishing returns. A point will be reached (a point will always be reached) when the bottleneck prevents you making more power.
That Coyote conversion that Karthief listed above? It's worth more now than it was as a high mileage 93 Cobra
On the heads vs displacement conversation:
Any time you're dealing with air mass and pumps, there is always a bell curve.
Changing the displacement and pulling the air through the same size ports will look something like this.
Eventually, airflow through the port will become so turbulent that more mass isn't possible without an exponential increase in force.
It is of course, a matter of diminishing returns. A point will be reached (a point will always be reached) when the bottleneck prevents you making more power.
Sh*t man, I feel you there. I only hit 330/350 on my 347, and the HP peak was under 6k rpm. I have been really struggling with not buying some 11R 190 or 205s. Trying to tell myself to focus on the rest of the car and revisit the engine later.
I am really curious about this as well. I am guessing yours won’t be too horribly far off from mine. I feel like my engine is pretty restricted at the moment.
When I see a wire nut in an automotive application I immediately think 'has no idea what they are doing' a wire nut has no way to be sealed from moisture ect. (Well they do but most wont do that properly)
If you dont clean older wire properly it may not take the solder joint.
The reality is if the correct tool and splice size is used a butt splice is a simple reliable connection.
If you dont clean older wire properly it may not take the solder joint.
The reality is if the correct tool and splice size is used a butt splice is a simple reliable connection.
Similar threads
X
Privacy & Transparency
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
- Personalized ads and content
- Content measurement and audience insights
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
Privacy & Transparency
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
- Personalized ads and content
- Content measurement and audience insights
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?