I am well beyond certified and have wired everything from rollercoasters to nuke plants.
Wire nuts work through compression, stranded wire works just fine with them.
They still have no place in a car, splicing and crimp connectors work just fine if done correctly and are easier to not
Crimping is such an inferior method that every OEM makes there connections this way.. (if you cant tell that's obvious sarcasm)
Bottom line hacks will do hack things. If you do it correctly your method of choice will get the job done.
Fyi many many year ago (think birth of electrical work) every connection was soldered after wrapping the wires. The connection method moved to compression connectors as they are more reliable over a long period and are easier (and faster) to apply correctly.
Wire nuts work through compression, stranded wire works just fine with them.
They still have no place in a car, splicing and crimp connectors work just fine if done correctly and are easier to not
Crimping is such an inferior method that every OEM makes there connections this way.. (if you cant tell that's obvious sarcasm)
Bottom line hacks will do hack things. If you do it correctly your method of choice will get the job done.
Fyi many many year ago (think birth of electrical work) every connection was soldered after wrapping the wires. The connection method moved to compression connectors as they are more reliable over a long period and are easier (and faster) to apply correctly.
I agree completely. When I see wire nuts on a car I just shake my head.
Butt splices will almost never fail if done correct.
Hell I’ve seen them in the planes I work on
I have taken a liking to the butt connectors with the solder built in
Here, you can clearly see the relationship between head displacement and the number of wire nuts used per application:
Oh... and I don't use wire nuts in cars. It's just corrosion waiting to happen.
Oh... and I don't use wire nuts in cars. It's just corrosion waiting to happen.
I do as well for 90% of the connections I make, but for anything that needs to be flexible it is best to use a double crimp connection once on the wire and a strain relief on the insulation. good shrink tube over a solder joint will accomplish this same task.
It depends on the transmission, gearing and vehicle weight. In a medium light Mustang, a manual transmission with more midrange torque in the engine will be much more fun to drive than a high rpm torque convertor auto with a peak power race engine. A manual will make the second engine more driveable on the street, but like some of the high output 4 cylinders, it will still need to be spun high to not be a dog.
In either car, I’m looking to make wide power and torque bands instead of just peak numbers. That’s what made my SHO fun to drive. It pulled like a healthy six with good gears, until it took off like a Yamaha Supersport bike. My current Mustang is faster, but the SHO a lot more fun in traffic.
Extra cubes should add to the lower end of the torque band.