Updated Pics of the build

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Well, I finally went to Walmart and got some new Camera Batteries, so I've finally got some pics of the progress.

Here is the new 347.

DSCN0541.webp


My new Switch panel.

DSCN0547.webp


My finished Bulkhead mounts

DSCN0544.webp


New bracket for the nitrous pressure sensor for the bottle heater. This used to be just jammed up against the firewall.

DSCN0549.webp


Custom made this relay box that will be hidden under the MSD Digital 6

DSCN0543.webp


DSCN0542.webp


Relocated the line locks away from where they rub on the tire. Also rerouted the brake lines so that they would have fewer twists and turns.

DSCN0545.webp


My unfinished wiring harness

DSCN0548.webp


And the purge solenoid. Nothing really changed here.

DSCN0546.webp


Kurt
 
Nice. :cheers:



Tip - Saw a couple of your photos came out a little on the "blurry" side. Try using the "macro" mode for some of the "close up" shots; it helps provide a proper level of focus for those type of shots (if applicable to your model digital camera, of course).
 
I didn't even know you were doing this...

I like the switch panel even though i have no idea what all those switches do, And what are those relays for?

Are you gonna do braided fuel line set up while you are doing all this?

And is your car auto? If not, Does the line lock really help? are you using dry nos or wet system?

Thanks to you Kurt I installed my transmission very easily.

Looks like it's gonna be stout motor :)

Leo
 
I didn't even know you were doing this...

I like the switch panel even though i have no idea what all those switches do, And what are those relays for?
Are you gonna do braided fuel line set up while you are doing all this?
And is your car auto? If not, Does the line lock really help? are you using dry nos or wet system?

Ah, let me see.

The switches on the panel are from left to right: Line lock, nitrous arm, purge, launch control arm, and bottle heater. The wiring to it is pretty complicated. The launch control arms a switch on the shifter. When you hit that switch, it disarms the nitrous, and sends a signal to the MSD for the 2nd stage rev limiter.

The braided steel is just to go to the gauges, not the entire fuel system.

Car is a 5 speed Tremec 3550. The line locks help out a lot for doing burnouts.

It's a dry nitrous system, 150 shot.

Kurt
 
Ah, let me see.

The switches on the panel are from left to right: Line lock, nitrous arm, purge, launch control arm, and bottle heater. The wiring to it is pretty complicated. The launch control arms a switch on the shifter. When you hit that switch, it disarms the nitrous, and sends a signal to the MSD for the 2nd stage rev limiter.

Kurt

This is freaking awesome, I need to learn how to do this,

I am using Digital-6 and I am using the switch panel as well but in a cup holder, I do have launch control but I just press the button next to the shifter and let go when taking off, and i would have to flip another switch for nitrous to arm and floor it.

yeah, so when car gets moving i get busy flipping switches. I think your way is lot better, If you can share how to wire it all that would be great, I am also using dry 150, I think i will also get the line lock.

Leo
 
Yeah sure man. All you need is a 5 prong relay. You can find them pretty cheap all over the internet. You can also just go to the autoparts store, and ask for a horn relay for your car, as it's just a basic 5 prong relay. The prongs on the relay are labeled: 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a. You want a 12V source going to prong 30. Hook up your launch switch to prong 85, and ground prong 86. Have prong 87 go to the MSD box to active the 2nd stage rev limiter. Then have 87a provide the power to the switch for nitrous. When the relay is deactivated, the circuit is closed between prong 30, and 87a, so your nitrous will operate normally. When you activate the relay (via the circuit between 85 and 86), it opens the circuit between 30, and 87a (turning off the nitrous), and closes the circuit between 30 and 87 (activating the 2nd stage rev limiter).

Kurt
 
IT RUNS.... The alternator isn't charging, but IT RUNS. I'll get the alternator benched tomorrow. The harness is in pretty rough shape too. Especially the field current end. It's partially melted.

Kurt
 
Yeah, it started first time we turned the key too. It was a little on the advanced side, and I had to reset the distributer one time. I grabbed the distributer and twisted it to get it to idle nice. When I checked the timing with the light, it was already dead on.

Kurt
 
Went up to Advance today, and the alternator was only putting out 5 volts. That's an easy fix. I still want to change that wiring harness anyway though.

Kurt
 
Ain't it the balls when you throw the timing light on and its all good...:nice:

Damn you guys down South !!!!!
I just put my new rocker studs on, got a 10 minute test drive then had to head down to full it up to stabilize the gas.... then it started spitting snow... :mad:

Came home, covered it, hooked the Battery Tender up and she's stored.
 
It actually snowed a very tiny bit today. Snow is worse down here, because no one's prepared for it. 3 flakes, and the highways grid lock. Nothing sucks worse than having to leave for work 3 hours early, then work a 16 hour day........then sleep for 6 hours, then work another 16 hour day.

Kurt