Engine Valve and or rocker noise .....new to this but dont mind getting my hands dirty.

OK so something in the top end sounds like marbles rolling around here is where I'm at.

B303 cam new
Scorpion 1.7.2 rockers new
Pushrods 6.250 comp cams hardened new
Heads aluminum new
Upgrade springs 5.50 lift is what they are rated for
Lifters ford racing new

OK so I soaked the lifters in oil for about 3 days before install because I was waiting on pushrods ro come in

On the 1st install and try I spun the push rod til I just started to feel it drag and went a half turn after that locked them down I went in firing order spinning the engine over as I went still made lots of noise

2nd try I spun the pushrod til it just started to drag but could still spin went 3/4 turn after that locked it down started it up and ......still lots of noise

3rd try I did the spin the engine over til exhaust valve just starts to open and do the intake rocker same spun pushrod til drag I did a half turn on nut and lucked it down then spin the engine til intake valve opens and goes almost closed and did exhaust rocker still makes lots of noise

Does anyone have any suggestions
Also here is a Pic of when I measured for pushrods the roller landed perfectly in the middle of the valve tip so I'm pretty sure I have correct length push rods..
 

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I have never had good luck with the " spin" method... I prefer moving the pushrod up and down until there is no movement or noise.... Alot of difference in the two methods of where I found the spot to start the adjustment.....
Take your time, sometimes you have to back it off a couple of turns and start over again... Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with small movements as you can easily compress the hydraulic lifter piston ... A small amount of movement makes a big difference....
I used the above system.... It takes a bit more time than others but it works the best... I do one cylinder at a time... I find if you " hop around" to different cylinders you can lose track of or make mistakes....
You can take out your spark plugs, and use a Large ratchet on the front pulley to rotate the cam to where you need it...
 
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OK I will let y'all know how it goes I just literally tried it again but I didn't see these responses and I did the spin method again but I did however do the base lobe technique spin engine til exhaust just starts to open then spin engine til intake just starts to close but it's still making the noise ...........here I will post a video of the sound although I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking about
 
When you are spinning the push rod be sure that you have some moly grease (assembly lube) on either end of the push rod. For me its really quick when the push rod goes from free spinning to having some drag on it. Do not be afraid of 3/4 to 1 full turn after the drag starts.
 
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I think I'm just gonna try driving it I've done it all from going up and down on the push rod to spinning the push rod from 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn to 5/8 turn to 3/4 turn to 1 full turn which is where they are currently set this week end alone I bet I've had it apart and back together 7 times lol it still makes the noise although I have to say it seems quiter but I can still clearly hear it even with the hood down I don't know what else it could be I've even put a scope in my ear it sounds like it's coming more from the lifter valley or cam area I've went to thicker oil I'm hoping that it just needs to be broken in some or something because I've completely run out of ideas
 
15 w 40 Is whats in it now it was 10w 30 I have and always will run ford oil filter or royal purple oil filter but ford is what's on there now ......I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it I also had the valve covers off and I have the oil primer tool and I know for a fact I have oil getting up top when I used the prime tool I physically watched it run all over the rockers and down in to head oil drain holes so I know it's getting plenty of oil up top lol made a mess when I did it while engine was running
 
I used a somewhat unconventional method to set mine. Unfortunately it requires the lower intake to be removed.
I installed my new lifters dry. I then tightened each rocker down till the plunger in the lifter compressed to a set point (It's been years, but I think I used .020-.030"). It worked perfect. My car with aluminum heads and Scorpion RRs sounds like a stocker when it comes to valve train noise.

I used the pump up the lifters, spin the push rod to it stops, and tighten 1/2 turn method many times and have always had noise. The problem with this method is that you have essentially turned the lifters into solid lifters because the plunger is fully extended when you lash down the rocker. The plunger in a hydraulic lifter needs to be compressed a fair amount so the hydraulics can do the work of keeping the lash correctly set.
 
I had a buddy of mine tell me to put a little atf in the oil but I went on amazon and got the liquid molly lifter oil stuff but I'm sure they are pumped up because when I first put them on I could push down on the rocker and they would move like squishy but now they are hard as a rock like have very little play
 
I mean at this point I'm ready to just try and drive it around the neighborhood 1 or 2 times to see if maybe it gets quite I doubt it but since the rebuild the car has only run about 15 minutes and 14 of those minutes where done at ideal ...1 of those minutes was making sure the ac worked and holding the rims at about 1k
 
Man I have seen a lot of B cams with 1.72:1 rockers and have zero issues but that was with a known cylinder head. Until the OP figures out what heads are on the motor of if known provides that information we will all be guessing. The other thing I think we are all assuming is this is a 93 5.0 car due to his user name so that needs to be cleared up as well.

Should be able to pull a valve cover and see something in there that identifies the heads.
 
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