they look the exact same, and seem to function the same, of course using a recirculating adaptor on the BOV. shouldn't they do the same job? the greddy is $200 less than the vortech.
vortech BPV vs. greddy BOV
- Thread starter SaleenGT2001
- Start date
hotmustang331
Active Member
I have heard that they are infact different...supposedly the BPV actually allows air to come in and out when cruizing and doesnt actually fully close until you get into boost. Where as the BOV is only one way and only vents air when the pressure is different and stays closed otherwise. (though thats just what I read..maybe someone had a weak spring lol)
That doesnt mean anything for you lol, so I say get the BOV
. Oh and this is very important...choosing the spring thats in the BOV. Basically you want a spring that will hold the BOV closed durring idle. A stock cammed motors idle is around 10#, so you will want to get the 11# spring in your BOV.
If you have aftermarket cams, then do like me and buy the 9# spring, as cammed engines make less vacuum. If its a very mild cam, then I dont think you can go wrong with an 11# spring
.
So basically when you left off the gas and close the TB, all that will be required to open the valve is around a 1-2PSI buildup in your intake...so I think that just a quick rev should make your BOV respond.
People will think you have a turbo HAHA..well if you vent it to the atmosphere..and I dont think there will be much.
Oh and make sure the BOV is far away (closer to the S/C) from your MAF as possable so it doesnt mess up the readings when it releases pressure....and definatly not after the MAF as it would be releasing metered air.
That doesnt mean anything for you lol, so I say get the BOV
. Oh and this is very important...choosing the spring thats in the BOV. Basically you want a spring that will hold the BOV closed durring idle. A stock cammed motors idle is around 10#, so you will want to get the 11# spring in your BOV.If you have aftermarket cams, then do like me and buy the 9# spring, as cammed engines make less vacuum. If its a very mild cam, then I dont think you can go wrong with an 11# spring
.So basically when you left off the gas and close the TB, all that will be required to open the valve is around a 1-2PSI buildup in your intake...so I think that just a quick rev should make your BOV respond.
People will think you have a turbo HAHA..well if you vent it to the atmosphere..and I dont think there will be much.Oh and make sure the BOV is far away (closer to the S/C) from your MAF as possable so it doesnt mess up the readings when it releases pressure....and definatly not after the MAF as it would be releasing metered air.
a BOV only opens when it recieves a vacuum from the source(manifold, whatever). most are closed at idle by design, and shut as soon as theres any increase in intake pressure(as in, from -15hg to -10 itll force it closed).
im sure it can be used with no harmful effects. but if the BPV is the same and cheaper, go with that.
btw i had a Greedy Type-S in my DSM, and i hated it. my buddy had one too, hated it, switched to the Type-R when it came out and hated that one as well. they are slow to open and cause alot of bucking/compressor surging.
im sure it can be used with no harmful effects. but if the BPV is the same and cheaper, go with that.
btw i had a Greedy Type-S in my DSM, and i hated it. my buddy had one too, hated it, switched to the Type-R when it came out and hated that one as well. they are slow to open and cause alot of bucking/compressor surging.
hotmustang331
Active Member
^I got the tial 50MM BOV, so hopefully its better haha. I think I payed $250 for it. (NM it was like $209...payes to shop around )
Steeda, how much is the greddy?
) Steeda, how much is the greddy?
the greddy one is somewhere around $40 shipped. i know that i have to recirculate the air coming out of it b/c i have a draw thru MAF. does anyone have any recomendations that are cheaper than the vortech mini race bypass?
hotmustang331
Active Member
Convert to blow through then you dont have to . but here is one that looks to work as a BPV...$38 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blow...007QQitemZ170004285090QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
. but here is one that looks to work as a BPV...$38 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blow...007QQitemZ170004285090QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
how can i convert it to blow thru? just change the position of the MAF? the one in the link looks very small, almost like the bosch one i have. the greddy type s looks much bigger. and it looks like you can recirculate it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=200003255537&ih=010&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=200003255537&ih=010&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
hotmustang331
Active Member
Yea you may be right...but thomas said that the greddy wasnt any good, so I figured that may be a better alternitive.
Ok, you may not want to go blow through unless you have a MAF that can support more than a lightning. If you have a lightning, converting it to blow through (mounting it inbetween the S/C and the TB) would put you RIGHT at the limit(350-375 MAX for lightnings), and would require a retune.
Its not a good idea for you IMO...not until you get an intercooler. Then buy an SCT BA 2400 MAF at the same time and get it all retuned. Right now a draw through is probably the best thing for you and will give the best drivability
Ok, you may not want to go blow through unless you have a MAF that can support more than a lightning. If you have a lightning, converting it to blow through (mounting it inbetween the S/C and the TB) would put you RIGHT at the limit(350-375 MAX for lightnings), and would require a retune.
Its not a good idea for you IMO...not until you get an intercooler. Then buy an SCT BA 2400 MAF at the same time and get it all retuned. Right now a draw through is probably the best thing for you and will give the best drivability
hotmustang331
Active Member
hotmustang331
Active Member
A BOV is a BOV, all it does it release pressure from your inlet pipe. If its too small, its not good because it doesnt bleed pressure fast enough, which puts a good load on the impeller.If you run the same boost with your IC, your current one should work fine
. If your upping boost any good amount, I say just get a good one (vortec)....$250 isnt all that much.
bullitt_2620
Member
What about the HKS super sequential bov? My buddy has one on his crazy turbo saab that does like 24psi of boost stock...The HKS valve is different because its the only bov to be "pulled" open to release pressure as opposed to being "pushed" open. You could run a recirculated valve, but venting to the atmosphere sounds really nuts. They have an adapter for the HKS that makes it a recirculating valve, as well as the ability to change the the fins in it so it makes different sounds...just another thought. 
i havent read the whole thread but BPV just takes the "extra" air and re routes to to before your boost source, i.e. supercharger/turbo, and a BOV USUALLY vents to atmosphere... if you want the most consistant and easiest to tune setup use a BPV as it doesnt vent meterd air out causing a rich condition between shifts. also if it gets stuck open at idle or LIGHT throttle then it wont suck in UNmeterd air causing a lean condition.... but if you do get a BOV get a TiAL or HKS Super Sequential or Apex'i Twin Chamber as they all use the boost created to keep them closed... your best bet would be to get a Super Seequential with the recirculation kit and use that instead of the vortech...
