Want to hit 12s in a relatively stock stang
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what size were the fronts?
And no guys this isn't the article on the cheap power of carbs... click the link I provided it's an all stock car much like Saleen here has just without the intake swap and without AC.
I thought I had the issue in my locker...I now know its at home..Ill dig it up tonight. I thought it was Rieder racing,but now I think it was Pro 5.0 shifters race car....Very good issue of MM&FF mosly about cheap speed. The car had a very simple combo that anyone can duplicat with off the shelf parts...
Kelly
Wish i would have kept mine! The set i had were milled to hell and back but got me down to 12.01 all motor! I miss those heads!
Hell i've had these since probably '04 sitting in a closet. I bought them from a buddy who bought them from some guy in SC. He said they came off a dirt track car "making 600hp at the crank" which is a little hard to believe, but they're ported to hell and back. I got them with a bent exhaust valve on each head so i took them to get new valves, and the machine shop guy said he handn't seen hand porting that good in years, so they must be pretty serious. I kinda wish i would've had them milled, because i'm pretty sure my compression is only around 9:1, but if i would've i would have PTV clearance issues with my cam. If they hadn't been ported as much as they are, and if the machine shop guy wasn't so impressed, i would've gone with GT40P's.
Finnaly dug up the June 06 issue of MM&FF. The caris an 83 turbo,with an 84 front facia. Reider racing sponsered the car back in the day..The power plant is a stock 5.0 attained for $200. The motor cosists of an E cam,71 351 windsor heads that have been bowl ported and fitted with larger valves. A Weiland stealth (unported),a Holley 750 and equal length shorty headers. The tranny is a C4, with transbrake, abd a 4700 stahl converter.
The suspension is simple Koni adustable struts 4cyl springs up front. Rear has Koni adjustables, Moroso trick springs,Steeda aluminum lca, FRPP uca and airbag. The axle is a 44 with 4.27 gears.
A very simple combo that has run 11.94/109.45. Not alot of money spent here...Someone stated earlier that you could buy a cheap stock shortblock. Spend your money on suspension, tranny (clutch or converter),wheels and tires. Go to the track and have fun!
Kelly
The suspension is simple Koni adustable struts 4cyl springs up front. Rear has Koni adjustables, Moroso trick springs,Steeda aluminum lca, FRPP uca and airbag. The axle is a 44 with 4.27 gears.
A very simple combo that has run 11.94/109.45. Not alot of money spent here...Someone stated earlier that you could buy a cheap stock shortblock. Spend your money on suspension, tranny (clutch or converter),wheels and tires. Go to the track and have fun!
Kelly
It might run 12's if you get it light enough. Back in 1990 I ordered a new LX 5spd with roll up windows and no A/C. With 15X8" and 15X3.5" Weld Wheels on 26X10X15 slicks it ran 13.40's @ 98MPH with a 1.65 60' time and the engine was bone stock. I launched it on the rev limiter and shifted at 5200 RPM's. The only non-stock part other than the wheels and tires was 3.73 gears, O/R H pipe, Flowmasters and 14 degrees of timing.
That about sums it up right there. I'm not putting any more money into my engine except maybe swapping the cam to something else. I figure i'm making the power to run 11s if i can make the car hook hard enough to do it. I'd be happy with low 12s anyways...much faster than that and i'm gonna start snapping axles.
It would be sweet to run some bad driver 03 Cobra's or some bad driver GT500's and beat them with a stock 5.0L car!!
It's already funny as hell when i go to the track...not that i'm the fastest guy out there but because so many people with more parts and money are still stuck in the 13s and they assume that i'll be slower because my car looks like crap. I had a guy with a 75 shot accuse me of hiding nitrous until i showed him my carb and asked him exactly where i was hiding it.
Alright so to bring everyone up to date..... I'm buying some weld wheels I'm already getting 15X8 for the rears but what size should I use for the front?
I have to buy an off road h pipe then I'm ditching the smog and ac (if anyone has one they want to get rid of let me know). I think i'll also buy a fiberglass hood so I can be sure to take that much more weight off the front end.
I'm gathering the parts to swap out my AOD, going with a new Anderson Motorsports clutch n pressure plate package.
Question about the "dogbone", I pulled it off yesterday... people say it's a counter balance weight but what about the rubber bushing above it? It almost looks like it's there to take some of the shock from the differential hitting the car, and if the dogbone isn't there the piece it bolts to above the differential isn't there either... I just want to make sure i'm not making this ride any rougher.
Other than that I still have to toss the battery in the back, do a little bit of suspension work and i'm about good to go.
Oh one more question.... I didn't think mustangs had quad shocks after 89??? I was under the back of my car (92) and I saw I had quad shocks...do you guys normally just ditch these or do I need to switch to coilovers to do so?
I have to buy an off road h pipe then I'm ditching the smog and ac (if anyone has one they want to get rid of let me know). I think i'll also buy a fiberglass hood so I can be sure to take that much more weight off the front end.
I'm gathering the parts to swap out my AOD, going with a new Anderson Motorsports clutch n pressure plate package.
Question about the "dogbone", I pulled it off yesterday... people say it's a counter balance weight but what about the rubber bushing above it? It almost looks like it's there to take some of the shock from the differential hitting the car, and if the dogbone isn't there the piece it bolts to above the differential isn't there either... I just want to make sure i'm not making this ride any rougher.
Other than that I still have to toss the battery in the back, do a little bit of suspension work and i'm about good to go.
Oh one more question.... I didn't think mustangs had quad shocks after 89??? I was under the back of my car (92) and I saw I had quad shocks...do you guys normally just ditch these or do I need to switch to coilovers to do so?
Dont ditch the quadshocks unless you have aftermarket Lower Control arms. I dont see the point in ditching them even if you do have aftermarket control arms, youll be asking for wheel hop. Only reason I could see for removing them is to fit big tires in the rear.
I wouldnt count on the skinnies up front shaving any time off your ET because its unsprung weight. Id look more into taking off weight in the engine compartment and the interior. And try to move as much weight as you can to the rear for traction.
You are going to benefit most from a FRESH set of slicks, go Mickey Thompson, Mickey Thompson, Mickey Thompson all the way. If I am going to spend money on tires to HOOK I want them to do just that and HOOK. I've heard people having success with the BFG's but I wont use anything other than MT. The ET Streets or the ET Street radials will help you get to your goal and give you whiplash in the process.
The next biggest thing will be getting a manual tranny and some gears in there.
I still don't think you'll hit low 13's untill you start getting into the engine a little more. You can get a good idea of where your at by just going to the track. Even without suspension mods, or slicks, or engine mod and just seeing what your MPH is. Even if you cant hook you'll know if you need more power or more hook just by seeing what your MPH is at.
I would swap out the AOD, take it to the track, and go from there. Id say you are going to need more power to get closer to 12's. I would do good tires, basic bolt ons maybe an intake or junkyard heads, remove weight because its mostly free or real cheap, then suspension.
I wouldnt count on the skinnies up front shaving any time off your ET because its unsprung weight. Id look more into taking off weight in the engine compartment and the interior. And try to move as much weight as you can to the rear for traction.
You are going to benefit most from a FRESH set of slicks, go Mickey Thompson, Mickey Thompson, Mickey Thompson all the way. If I am going to spend money on tires to HOOK I want them to do just that and HOOK. I've heard people having success with the BFG's but I wont use anything other than MT. The ET Streets or the ET Street radials will help you get to your goal and give you whiplash in the process.
The next biggest thing will be getting a manual tranny and some gears in there.
I still don't think you'll hit low 13's untill you start getting into the engine a little more. You can get a good idea of where your at by just going to the track. Even without suspension mods, or slicks, or engine mod and just seeing what your MPH is. Even if you cant hook you'll know if you need more power or more hook just by seeing what your MPH is at.
I would swap out the AOD, take it to the track, and go from there. Id say you are going to need more power to get closer to 12's. I would do good tires, basic bolt ons maybe an intake or junkyard heads, remove weight because its mostly free or real cheap, then suspension.
Welds are worth having simply because they weigh so much less than stock rims. They won't shave tenths off your ET but everything adds up. I don't personally think you'll get into the 12s with E7s, but then guys like 25th seem to be able to (although his have bigger valves in them). My car was a solid 13.50 car with the stock heads and cam, and i was still launching pretty low...i think with some serious suspension work and the ability to launch at 5k and really make the most of a pass, i might have scratched a high 12...so with stock heads and cam i think if you're going to do it, you have to be as light as possible and have the car able to leave the line hard as hell without breaking everything and you have to drive it without mercy.
I pretty much ran that same windsor headed combo for 2 years but with a bigger cam and ran 11.70s@116 all day long
I'm planning on doing everything they did in that article and then working on getting my driving to the best I can in order to try and get the lowest et possible. Then I'll go into breaking into the motor. In the article they did control arms... so yea I'm going to have aftermarket control arms, and as it is I need shocks really bad so i'm going to do the shocks and springs. No one answered my question about the dog bone though...
7upstang91
10 Year Member
You're not going to spin slicks with that power. Take out everything that you can!
Before I get new control arms to toss in, should I get torque box and control arm reinforcements?
My mods for my runs will be as follows: The engine will remain stock, I'll have complete exhaust, underdrive pullies, tokico hp shocks, high flow air filter, aftermarket upper and lower control arms, electric fan, ac/smog delete, weld rims and drag radials.
Only after I make a few runs ang get as close as possible to high 12s then i'll dig into the engine.
If the car should be fine with all of that then I have no problem doing the reinforcement plates down the road...
My mods for my runs will be as follows: The engine will remain stock, I'll have complete exhaust, underdrive pullies, tokico hp shocks, high flow air filter, aftermarket upper and lower control arms, electric fan, ac/smog delete, weld rims and drag radials.
Only after I make a few runs ang get as close as possible to high 12s then i'll dig into the engine.
If the car should be fine with all of that then I have no problem doing the reinforcement plates down the road...
1) If you leave the stock Explorer cam and valve springs in, the engine is gonna fall flat on its face at high RPM. Making it a 12 second engine pretty much requires the use of a good cam (Trickflow Stage 1 etc) and valve springs to match.
2) It wouldn't hurt to look into getting an air bag for the passenger side rear spring so it'll launch straight.
3) torque box reinforcements are just good insurance. The more you pound on the car with slicks, the more risk you are of damaging them and costing you more money to fix them.
2) It wouldn't hurt to look into getting an air bag for the passenger side rear spring so it'll launch straight.
3) torque box reinforcements are just good insurance. The more you pound on the car with slicks, the more risk you are of damaging them and costing you more money to fix them.
blackened88lx
Active Member
I'm probably not supposed to link to other forums, but this thread old thread on Corral is an awesome read with some of the old pros that were mentioned in the OP's article posting in it.
"official" 12 second stocker combo thread! - Corral Forums
It is absolutely doable with a stock untouched longblock. I'm not talking intakes, any kind of porting, retarding of the cam, rockers, etc. I'm talking bone stock.
Bottom line is you're going to need 103mph and a 1.7x 60ft time to run 12.9x.
First off you have to swap in that manual tranny.
3.73s or 4.10s
Exhaust. Preferrably long tubes, no cats, light mufflers (bullets) no tails (weight).
It will be easier with speed density, but get a larger mass air if you have it.
Shed as much weight as you're willing to. A/C, P/S, smog, sway bar, armrest, front bumper, door bars, spare, jack, etc etc.
If you don't delete the p/s get a short belt. Or don't run a belt at all.
Ice the intake between passes.
Wheels will definitely make a difference, but what's the point if it's not done on 10 holes or ponys imo.
Obviously slicks or drag radials are necessary.
Some of the pros suggest not stiffening the chassis because at this power level and with a stock suspension a little bit of flex will help transfer weight and aid traction.
I could go on, but all the info and techniques you will ever need is in that thread I mentioned.
Probably the most important mod to do this is the driver mod. You're going to have to drive the car like you ****ing hate it. You're going to need to launch it upwards of 5500rpm. If the car hooks pretty well you're probably going to be launching off the factory limiter. And don't even THINK about lifting when you shift. There should be a dent in the floor under the gas pedal and bent shift stops after you make a pass. Pretend you're trying to pull that t5 right through the damn floor.
"official" 12 second stocker combo thread! - Corral Forums
It is absolutely doable with a stock untouched longblock. I'm not talking intakes, any kind of porting, retarding of the cam, rockers, etc. I'm talking bone stock.
Bottom line is you're going to need 103mph and a 1.7x 60ft time to run 12.9x.
First off you have to swap in that manual tranny.
3.73s or 4.10s
Exhaust. Preferrably long tubes, no cats, light mufflers (bullets) no tails (weight).
It will be easier with speed density, but get a larger mass air if you have it.
Shed as much weight as you're willing to. A/C, P/S, smog, sway bar, armrest, front bumper, door bars, spare, jack, etc etc.
If you don't delete the p/s get a short belt. Or don't run a belt at all.
Ice the intake between passes.
Wheels will definitely make a difference, but what's the point if it's not done on 10 holes or ponys imo.
Obviously slicks or drag radials are necessary.
Some of the pros suggest not stiffening the chassis because at this power level and with a stock suspension a little bit of flex will help transfer weight and aid traction.
I could go on, but all the info and techniques you will ever need is in that thread I mentioned.
Probably the most important mod to do this is the driver mod. You're going to have to drive the car like you ****ing hate it. You're going to need to launch it upwards of 5500rpm. If the car hooks pretty well you're probably going to be launching off the factory limiter. And don't even THINK about lifting when you shift. There should be a dent in the floor under the gas pedal and bent shift stops after you make a pass. Pretend you're trying to pull that t5 right through the damn floor.
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