Fuel What are the fuel line Inner Diameters ? (i need to 90*bend the away from my turbo manifold)

98Mustang2017

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May 3, 2017
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I need to buy some 90 degree brass fitting to move the fuel lines away from the hot exhaust. But what size do i get?
I see 5/16, 3/8.. or do i get 3/16 ? I DON'T KNOW WHICH ONE TO CLICK "BUY" ON ! aAAGHH! lol. These brass fittings arent exactly cheap either. I can get 2 5/16 fittings for $8 or 5 3/8 fittings for $12.
 
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Pretty sure the hard-lines are 5/16 (larger one) and 1/4 (smaller one).
Not sure where your lines are coming near exhaust, but the hard lines are kind of tucked out of the way. Never heard of anyone needing brass fittings for this purpose. There are braided steel lines with AN fittings which are a common upgrade to the vinyl lines that go from the hard-lines to the fuel rail. That's pretty much the only place you'd normally get near the exhaust. If you're doing something unusual carry on, but if you have a pic of where it's close and you'd like some suggestions post away.
 
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Pretty sure the hard-lines are 5/16 (larger one) and 1/4 (smaller one).
Not sure where your lines are coming near exhaust, but the hard lines are kind of tucked out of the way. If you're doing something unusual carry on, but if you have a pic of where it's close and you'd like some suggestions post away.
I'll post a pic tomorrow. When you say "hard Lines" what do you mean? The lines i'm talking about are the ones that connect to the fuel rail.
 
I mean the steel lines that enter the engine-bay behind the passenger-side shock-tower.
They're at the other end of the hoses that connect up to the fuel rail.
That's the only place I could have imagined someone attempting to use brass fittings. :)

So I'm not sure what kind of fittings you were planning or where you planned to use them, nor what kind of hoses you're currently running from the hard-line to the fuel rail. In the stock configuration, it's just plastic / vinyl fuel line running from quick-disconnect fittings on those hard-lines to spring-quick-disconnect type fittings at the fuel rail. Upgraded configurations usually use braided hose for the same function (with stock-like spring-quick-disconnects at the fuel rail).

When you get around to it, the pics (along with maybe a link to the part you were planning to use) would be helpful.
 
When you get around to it, the pics (along with maybe a link to the part you were planning to use) would be helpful.

Here you go..
That's my turbo manifold poking up. It isnt great but i just want it done for now.
The fuel lines are really close to the exhaust, i had to use a metal wire to keep it pulled away. Bad enough the aluminum piece gets real hot. So that why i need the 90's instead of nearly kinking the hoses.
nnn.jpg

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-------------Here's the 5/16 brass fitting that cost $8 for 2. (shipping is probly included in the price)
s-l500.jpg

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=252820092072
Should take care of the big line at least. Wouldn't want a fire thats for sure.
 
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Ok all makes sense now, the picture of the brass fittings helps (I couldn't picture what you were planning in the context of those spring-clip fittings). So you're planning on cutting the vinyl lines (inside the rubber outer coating) and then using these 90 degree elbows close to the fuel rail.

Personally I'd go a bit of a different route, for a couple of reasons. Those lines are still going to be a bit too-close-for-comfort to the header pipe. You could lessen the risk with some fireproof sleeve and wrapping the header, but there's just not enough length to them to really get them out of the way.

The 2nd bigger reason is that those old vinyl lines may already be brittle - folks report them cracking and causing engine fires. I didn't have that problem thankfully, but as my turbo headers (more of a regular kit configuration that puts the turbo where the air-box was) ran underneath the lines and they get pretty darned hot, I wasn't comfortable with vinyl lines there at all. They soften with heat (that's how you get those barbed fittings into them typically with a little boiling water) and can completely melt. Put that together with ~40psi in the old, brittle lines that have been flexed as they are now, and it's an accident waiting to happen.

I'd personally go with this as a starting point: https://lmr.com/item/KP-5070/1986-98-Mustang-6An-And-8An-Fuel-Rail-Adaptor-Kit
They sell braided line kits but those are usually just slightly angled. With these you can configure your lines and route them however you want.

Use some 6AN / 8AN 90-degree elbows and a couple of lengths of braided line, and some adapters on the hard-lines, and you're in business and completely safe - largely bolt-on. This will cost you more (I'd guess somewhere between $100-$200 or so) but would give you a more durable and much safer solution to your problem. I realize that's not in everyone's budget, but I try not to mess around with safety when it comes to gasoline near very hot stuff. I'd hate to see you get hurt or your car get destroyed when I had the opportunity to say something.

Here's a really good thread about the rest of the plumbing back to the hard-lines: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/1995-gt-rubber-fuel-lines.877769/

I still haven't answered your question about the vinyl fuel-line ID's, I honestly don't know as my original lines went out with the trash a few years ago. I imagine cutting your lines where you'd intend to install the barbed fittings and measuring would be the safest bet (unless someone else chimes in). Underneath the rubber sleeving the lines might also be marked with their size. But I hope you reconsider. :)