I just bought this mustang last week and I want to change the oil in it, but I have a problem. He tells me the motor was redone about a year ago with a little bigger cam and bored 30over. My question is, will this change the amount of oil it needs? What wt should I run? 10-30?
What should I run in my car?
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bubba-dough
Active Member
Nope. The only thing that is going to change the amount of oil is the oil pan. If its a 5 qt. stock style pan or if its a 7 qt. pan. The oil to use is going to depend on the climate where you live.
KamiKaziDK
Member
10w30 is always safe....if I were you I'd be making sure what he put in it, standard, blend or full synthetic. if he had blend or syn, don't go backwards to standard oil. Probably just a ploy by oil companies, but that's always been the rule
parrish5o
New Member
HotFox
15 Year Member
You could look into CENPECO especially since you are in Ohio. It is not sold in stores. The problem I have with all synthetics is they have no or very little detergents. If you ever pulled a pan off a motor that ran synthetic you will see a lot of build up on the bottom of the pan, or when you drain the oil pay attention to the last few drops that come out of the pan. If you’re running a good oil, such as Cenpeco I would not be afraid to drop to 5w30 oil especially in the Midwest. My car I just bought ran Mobil Syn. and I put my 5w30 Cenpeco in it. Cenpeco S3 oil carries 1475ppm of Phosphorus and 1600ppm of zinc. There racing oil carries 2213ppm of Phos., and 2417ppm of Zinc.
I am not a dealer or do I work for Cenpeco, just have done a lot of research on what I pour into my crank cases on all my engines.
Cen-Pe-Co Lubricants Official Corporate Website
Scott
I am not a dealer or do I work for Cenpeco, just have done a lot of research on what I pour into my crank cases on all my engines.
Cen-Pe-Co Lubricants Official Corporate Website
Scott
As soon as I read "Pariffin based", I quit reading. Pariffin .........AKA.........WAX! I have been into to many Pennzoil* and Q-State* engines to know what wax will do to an engine. I will stick with synthetic oil, thanks.
*if you change your oil EVERY 3K miles, and I mean at 3k, not 1 mile over, then MAYBE you can avoid the Pariffin (wax) build up...........Maybe.
*if you change your oil EVERY 3K miles, and I mean at 3k, not 1 mile over, then MAYBE you can avoid the Pariffin (wax) build up...........Maybe.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Bullitt have you seen wax build up in engines you tore down?
Never had a problem with build up, and have kept the oil in well over 3K...
most oils **non synthetic oils** are tar based.
Wax based or paraffin can withstand higher temperatures before they start to burn unlike tar based oils.
Scott
Yes........that is why I said what I said. I can tear apart an engine and tell if it has had a pariffin oil in it. I ask the customer and I am always right. Mainly most people go well beyond the change interval. My sons friend works at a Jiffy Lube and has verified that most of the cars that come in are not only way over mileage on the change interval, but they also have wax (sludge) build up that can be seen under the oil fill cap. The biggest killer of 5 cylinder Volvo engines is lack of oil changes. They build up with sludge fast! I have seen enough of those engines ruined by the wax/sludge build up. It is a shame to, because they have a killer bottom end.
+1
...........why do you think that the Corvette, Porsche, Aston Martin and others come from the factory with Mobile 1 and is usually required to maintain warranty? ..........there is a reason!........and it is not marketing!
Valvoline 10w-30 most of the year. Valvoline 20w-50 in summer.
Pennzoil is crap, the wax buildup from that stuff is crazy. I damn near lost the engine in my Bronco a couple years back do to Pennzoil being used by the previous owner. The wax buildup was so intense that the oil pickup screen was 90% blocked. I tore the engine down and cleaned about 4-5lbs of wax out of the valve cover and oil pan alone.
Pennzoil is crap, the wax buildup from that stuff is crazy. I damn near lost the engine in my Bronco a couple years back do to Pennzoil being used by the previous owner. The wax buildup was so intense that the oil pickup screen was 90% blocked. I tore the engine down and cleaned about 4-5lbs of wax out of the valve cover and oil pan alone.
KamiKaziDK
Member
My dad used penzoil in my 83 f-150 since he bought it brand new, when I replaced the oil pan gasket a couple years ago everything looked clean and as good as my 5.0 that I run synthetic in, Oil changed every 3000 or less miles and never anything added to it. It is a low RPM straight 6 300 though
I always ran Mobil 1 10-30 when i had a 302 with a novi 2000 on it, 10-30 should be fine for what your doing
I run shell 10-30w in my new motor, for me there is no need to run synthetic at the intervals i change my oil, i'd be shocked if i changed it every 750 miles, I dont even run a dipstick, if i want to check the oil, i just change it, but i dont drive the car often, so when i do i really give it a workout
I run shell 10-30w in my new motor, for me there is no need to run synthetic at the intervals i change my oil, i'd be shocked if i changed it every 750 miles, I dont even run a dipstick, if i want to check the oil, i just change it, but i dont drive the car often, so when i do i really give it a workout
I would just stick with 10-30 the whole time. I would also find out what kind of oil he used in it. You can go from synthetic or blend to conventional, its not recommended to go from conventional to synthetic. The first number is basically what thickness the oil is at zero degress, the second number means it wont get thinner than that at waters boiling point, because oil thins out when it gets warmer. You can run a 5-30 in the winter so the oil moves better at start up, but you should be fine with 10-30 anyways, I run straight 50, im in Florida though.
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