Where to get a good shortblock?

I do believe if you supply a block without cracks Woody will work out a way to do a stock block for you. By the time it’s all machined and ready for assembly though you’re only saving in the $1000-$1200 neighborhood over going with a dart block. It’s not exactly chump change, but kind of something to think about. A dart block will more than likely be the last block you’ll buy, save unless something catastrophic happens. Even if you choose to go 4.125 bore there is still several rebuilds to go before thinking about cylinder wall thickness.

If going stock block I’d just get one out of a junkyard and put a set of pistons in it (for some compression). Probably will have to get the rotating assembly balanced, unless the weight is spot on to the stock ones, but it’ll be your cheapest route. Usually the fuel injected 5.0 long blocks are pretty cherry when you crack them open.
 
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That was him. The good Captain @FastDriver can speak to that. He was one of the customers that had to bail on the guy when he couldn’t fulfill the order.
Sorry guys. I check back in when I can, but I've been way more busy with work, now that I'm no longer a student in grad school, this year.

I don't know what happened to Rick. He just completely dropped off of the net. I'd asked him to do quite a few things on my black car. I even sent a pristine black dash that cost a couple hundred bucks out to him. After he dropped off, I never heard from him again. Never got a refund or anything for the dash. Was too busy to bother with it, and never sought him out for the dash/cash/legal remedy. He did good work on Joe's car, which I now own. I hope he's doin' alright out there.
 
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I do believe if you supply a block without cracks Woody will work out a way to do a stock block for you. By the time it’s all machined and ready for assembly though you’re only saving in the $1000-$1200 neighborhood over going with a dart block. It’s not exactly chump change, but kind of something to think about. A dart block will more than likely be the last block you’ll buy, save unless something catastrophic happens. Even if you choose to go 4.125 bore there is still several rebuilds to go before thinking about cylinder wall thickness.

The stupidest thing I ever did was go with a stock block on my second stroker engine. Budget was real tight back then. Just get the stinking Dart block.

Kurt
 
Save and go with the Dart at Fordstrokers. Woody will build a hell of a motor. I bounced back and forth between a Dart long block from Woody and a Coyote swap. I went with a 347 Dart from Woody and I am beyond happy.