Which C- clip eliminator kit? And..28 vs 31 spline axles

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
Mod Dude
Mar 7, 2002
8,418
4,215
224
The simple fact that neither you nor raggedy have never broken a stock axle through abuse would’ve bolstered my confidence in the Moser units. Once I spend 500-750 on a diff i’m kinda stuck with it, so I just wanted some opinions. The stock examples are just as relevant.
The most power I've ever had was about 400 horsepower in an old Chevy farm truck years ago. It had a 12-bolt truck axle, wasn't going to break that even with the 400ci small-block with heads, cam, intake, carb, and headers. I did eventually hurt that axle, when I got hit in the bedside by someone taking an off-ramp at extra-legal speeds with no turn signal, but power had nothing to do with it.

Everyone forgets that ESP is only a 12-second car by the skin of it's teeth and only because it's so damned light that it can do such a thing with 267rwhp. I'm 100% sure I'll be asking 8.8 or 9" questions about ten minutes after the turbo 4.6 is in it... if the TR3650 doesn't die first.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,376
4,463
203
42
C clip eliminators may have some fitment issues with your rear caliper brackets.

Hardened steel generally is more brittle. I've seen drag cars get tire shake bad enough to break an aftermarket axle that's rated for more than the car has. I've seen a bunch of stock axles break on street cars and trucks. I'd vote to do 31 spline axles and no eliminators if you are a little aggressive on the street. Your rotors and caliper brackets will hold the axle in if it snaps or the c clip comes loose

If you had drum brakes I'd tell you to get clip eliminators....there would be nothing to keep the drum and axle from coming out of the rear.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
9,534
7,527
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
C clip eliminators may have some fitment issues with your rear caliper brackets.

Hardened steel generally is more brittle. I've seen drag cars get tire shake bad enough to break an aftermarket axle that's rated for more than the car has. I've seen a bunch of stock axles break on street cars and trucks. I'd vote to do 31 spline axles and no eliminators if you are a little aggressive on the street. Your rotors and caliper brackets will hold the axle in if it snaps or the c clip comes loose

If you had drum brakes I'd tell you to get clip eliminators....there would be nothing to keep the drum and axle from coming out of the rear.
Thanks for that..makes sense.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 90sickfox

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,576
1,314
214
40
Acworth, GA
C clip eliminators may have some fitment issues with your rear caliper brackets.

If you had drum brakes I'd tell you to get clip eliminators....there would be nothing to keep the drum and axle from coming out of the rear.
They might, they might not. There are plenty of people go by that logic only to see the wheel shake so bad it tore the caliper off and the car ejected the wheel.. If the wheel comes off at any speed, then it's going to be a crash.

Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 90sickfox

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,576
1,314
214
40
Acworth, GA
That’s my move eventually is to get going on another rear to handle what my car makes , right now it’s just welded axles tubes , cobra posi unit and 31 spline mosers .

I have the 9 inch ends already sitting .
Tru trac , moser 33s , welded axle tubes, mark willams 1350 yoke ( my ds speed sensor collar fits ), chromoly drive shaft with a sonnax input yoke . Powder coat the housing and that will be that . As you said though - not today . Later in time

I just made the plunge for that setup. It wasn't cheap.

Kurt
 

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,576
1,314
214
40
Acworth, GA
Yeaaahhh...I shoulda known.

Spoke with Moser..their 28 spline axle is not “rated” to handle the kinda power i’m potentially making. Naturally, they want me to upgrade to a 31 spline at minimum.
That would mean, new 300.00 street axles, new 170.00 C-Clip eliminators, and a Detroit 31 spline tru-trac at 600.00.
They did find my old purchase history though..I had the current axles shortened to 24 15/16”. ( I’m writing this here so i won’t lose that) When it’s time to worry about all of that I will,....

just not today.
I think if I were to give you any advice, it would be to do what you just did, and call Moser. I was a little dubious about using a C-clip axle with C-clip elminators anyway. The best thing to do is to get all your parts from one place, so there is one place to call for support, and one place responsible for making the parts fit together. If you are using Moser axles, use Moser C-clip eliminators. I agree on not going with the 9" ends. It's expensive to get an axle jigged and welded, and could take the rest of your life. Who knows what the time frame is going to be when you hand it over to someone else. The downside to the C-clip elminators is that they have a tendancy to leak (who knows how much of that is installation error), and they have a smaller, weaker bearing (probably not an issue for guys not doing a lot of track time). If you do decide to go to the 9" ends, Moser sells a 9" end with an 8.8" bolt pattern that will work with the brakes you have now. It's not on their website, you have to call and ask for it.

Kurt
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
9,534
7,527
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
I think if I were to give you any advice, it would be to do what you just did, and call Moser. I was a little dubious about using a C-clip axle with C-clip elminators anyway. The best thing to do is to get all your parts from one place, so there is one place to call for support, and one place responsible for making the parts fit together. If you are using Moser axles, use Moser C-clip eliminators. I agree on not going with the 9" ends. It's expensive to get an axle jigged and welded, and could take the rest of your life. Who knows what the time frame is going to be when you hand it over to someone else. The downside to the C-clip elminators is that they have a tendancy to leak (who knows how much of that is installation error), and they have a smaller, weaker bearing (probably not an issue for guys not doing a lot of track time). If you do decide to go to the 9" ends, Moser sells a 9" end with an 8.8" bolt pattern that will work with the brakes you have now. It's not on their website, you have to call and ask for it.

Kurt
If I decide to cut the ends off, and put 9” ends on it, I have a friend with the jig. ( That is depending on how long he stays mad at me for calling his big fat orange headed loser a piece of sht) I could literally drive it up there, remove the rear, and do everything all in one fell swoop if I have the axles, ends, and diff. Course, now that he’s mad at me he might just tell me to go fck myself too........there’s always that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TOOLOW91

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,576
1,314
214
40
Acworth, GA
If I decide to cut the ends off, and put 9” ends on it, I have a friend with the jig. ( That is depending on how long he stays mad at me for calling his big fat orange headed loser a piece of sht) I could literally drive it up there, remove the rear, and do everything all in one fell swoop if I have the axles, ends, and diff. Course, now that he’s mad at me he might just tell me to go fck myself too........there’s always that.
After all the crap I went through, I kind of wishing you and I split the cost of a jig, and knocked out both our axles. It would have been way cheaper, and Birmingham is 2 1/2 hour drive from here.

Kurt
 

taco

Member
Sep 1, 2002
10
3
13
39
Visit site
The "right" way to do it is 9 inch ends, but plenty of guys run c-clip eliminators. I still run c-clip axles so no first hand experience and unless I take an unexpected change in direction with my car for dragstrip use I will continue to run c-clips as a dedicated weekend cruiser. But when looking into this in a fairly extensive manor is the following. C-clip eliminators often leak. According to maximum motorsports c-clip eliminators run a smaller bearing and this bearing while fine for going in a straight line does not provide very good lateral support for corners if spirited cornering is important to you. The general consensus seems to be that strange c-clip eliminators are superior to moser.

Ford trac-lok in either 28 spline or 31 spline flavor seems to be adequate for all but hardcore drag use.

My 2 cents which is worth exactly what you paid for it is to rebuild the factory trac-lok with new clutches, keep the c-clips and 28 spline mosers, and avoid hard launches at the drag strip on sticky tires.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 7991LXnSHO