Ok, I'm home now.
OK, the 4 bolts I am referring to are pretty easy to see, unless I am mistaken and they really arent there, but if I remember right, they are. They should be right where the belhousing narrows down and the transmission basically becomes the same size all the way to the rear. If you cant find them or they arent there, thats ok. I didnt remove the transmission that way anyway, so I couldnt give you as detailed instructions.
OK, starter is out, headers and H pipe are out, so theres a start.
You need to remove the driveshaft, obviously. There are 4 12mm 12pt bolts at the rear differential that need to be removed. After those are out, then you can easily slide the other end out of the transmission. CAUTION: Unless you have a spare yoke to insert in the rear of the transmission, you will leak your trans fluid out. You either need a spare yoke, or you need to drain the fluid via the drain plug on the passenger side, near the middle at the bottom.
After the driveshaft is out, then mostly you just need to start unhooking some things. You need to disconnect any sensors that would prohibit the transmission from coming down. You deffinately dont want to rip some wires out. These are basically just 02 sensors, which you probably have disconnected already.
Before you take the driveshaft out, remember to remove the shifter if you havent already done so. Put the trans in neutral (if you can), otherwise you will not be able to rotate the driveshaft which will make some of those bolts almost impossible, if not impossible, to remove. Also, I was told to put something under the clutch pedal when it is all the way up to keep the cable in adjustment when you disconnect it, so do that as well.
Back under the car, on the driver side there is a sheetmetal cover near the front of the trans that covers where the clutch cable connects to the fork that engages/disengages the clutch. You need a 1/4" socket I believe - I know for a fact it is a standard size. Every other size needed for the removal is metric. Once you have the cover removed, you can pull the cable to get some slack, and slide the ball end out of the fork. There is also a thin clip that holds it in place just a little further to the front of the car. Remove that as well.
After all above is done, you should have everything out of the way - shifter removed (basically just the handle), driveshaft, h-pipe, starter, clutch cable, sensor wires. The only thing you have to do now is unbolt the crossmember that supports the rear of the transmission. Be sure to have some sort of support for the trans when this removes, or you will put ALOT of weight on the bellhousing, which could cause damage. Once the crossmember is out, you just need to remove the 7 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine. There should be 4 on the driver side, 3 on the passenger. I think they are 14mm. All except the top 2 will be easily accessible. To get to the top 2 bolts, you can lower the transmission slightly but still supporting the weight. After doing so, they are easilly accessible with a long extension.
Once all 7 are out, there should be nothing holding the transmission on. It might take a little bit of prying to break the bellhousing away from the engine, but not much. You will know right away once it has pulled away.
There really is no straight shot way of getting it all the way out. Space is very tight in the tunnel, and you just have to make small adjustments, and wiggle it around. Once the input shaft is out and has cleared the pressure plate, you can lower it down and your done. If you have any specific questions just ask, I'll check this again later.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
13k miles on my SPEC stg 2 and it still grabs HARD
