**muttering to myself after hocking up a huge hairball lugie, while walking around in my bathrobe and scratching.......thx madmike. ( you crazy ass old guy). I was thinking the same. By the way, my last car did have the same wheel setup and was a daily driver with no issues!
Sent from my rooted, rommed Galaxy Nexus....
there is a lot more to carb sizing than just displacement. based on the converter, gear, heads, intake and exactly which cam is in it and what the compression is, it might run great. there is only one way to know.
Skinnies are great if you have heavy manual steering. I did get a harsh reality check one time driving a buddy's GT that had skinnies on front. A lady pulled out right in front of me, and i was instantly reminded that half the tire contact patch under the tires that do 70% of the stopping is not a great idea...the car stopped sliding about a foot from T boning her.
And as for carb sizing, i've said this before many times since getting my Pro Systems carb...it's all in the tuning. I honestly get a little disgusted when people post that stupid carb sizing math problem crap, because if making power was that simple we wouldn't be having this discussion. I went from a thoroughly tuned Holley 650dp to a custom wet flowed 780cfi Pro Systems carb, and the car is like night and day. Throttle response is better, drivability is better, cold starts are better, the idle is better. Now, that's not to say you can always assume that a bigger carb is better, but it shows that sometimes depending on the combo, you gotta let it eat. My car has been down for a thousand reasons since then so i haven't had it on the dyno, but i suspect that it's within a handful of HP from 400 at the wheels now.
Thanks for all the input. Ive decided to pass on this car. More due to the fact that it would need emissions testing in my area, and being converted= nope
Sent from my rooted, rommed Galaxy Nexus....
I didn't come up w/ that "stupid carb math sizing thing",..Holley did.
Holley did it because to the average Joe bigger is better. The people that call summit on any given day planning on investing in a carburetor for a street driven car, need a point of reference. For someone like you and Clement who obviously know their way around a carburetor, the rule doesn't apply.
For the guy looking for advice on whether or not to use a carburetor at all, maybe it does.
AND,....For every guy that has a perfectly tuned well running carb, I'm sure there is at least one guy dumping gas down the intake that'll never get burned, winging the throttle to keep the plugs clean, dumping out black smoke all the way to the next red light.
Good news!!! You're not a hillbilly
Aww I don't care if it was. You have a point just the same. Typically, I answer a thread because I judge the individual asking the question depending on the question. FWIW, I wouldn't try to tell you anything about carbs, as I know from your posts that you have invested a fair amount into a race carb already. On the same note, not taking anything from the OP, I just judged him to need a little generic advice about carburetors.I didn't mean to sound like i was pointing that comment at you, i'm just saying it's not that simple. For the record, more times than not i recommend smaller carbs than bigger ones. It really comes down to the combo and what RPM range you plan on running in the most.
How much does it cost to add the 70mm TB, the 30 lb injectors, and the 80mm MAF? How much did the intake cost on the "hot HCI" in the stated example ? Will the stock intank pump support the power that the new combo is capable of producing, and how much will it cost to replace it if it don't? Lastly,.....if I decided to kick it up a notch, or drop it back one for better fuel mileage,....will the $125.00 little black box in the above example require I revisit the red headed kid w/ braces for a retune?
I don't think I could shave a grand off, but a considerable amount, yes.
Ah, but the beauty is you don't need a $475 dyno session to tune a carb as long as you own a flathead screwdriver and a 10mm socket and invest about 10 minutes of reading into learning how to read spark plugs. You also don't need to spend $600 on a Demon when you can get a Holley 650dp for ~$350. Also i would opt for a Stealth intake which will save you nearly another $100 and is a better intake than the Air Gap. That list is made to be conveniently close in price, when reality is much much different. I bet i could easily and *safely* shave at least $1000 off that list and still do the swap "right".
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