I got my car started but my plugs keep on comming out black and wet a little. The car at idel smokes. Not sure what’s in the block, might have a cam has ported e7 heads it’s a 92 5 speed I did change a few things. I HAVE A BAD SENSE OF SMELL AND CANT TELL WHAT COLOR THE SMOKE IS .So here is my question . Fuel pressure regulator ,I take off vacuum line off of it I don’t see no fuel on the top screw where it adjust. I bought it last year from lmr it’s the adjustable $44 one.So can it go bad to where instead of it letting out fuel out that screw could it let more of a flow out to the injectors causing plugs to get fuel fouled?

Hi 2V Fans,

I haven't been on any Forums for the past decade...been a long time. Some of the old times might remember my posts and car from 2004-2009 tim2ve frame. I was known as Yelllow20GTauto back in the day and was working to build the fastest 2v set up i could get on 281 Cubes..... with a stock 01 Cobra short block, TFS44cc Heads, VT stage 2 cams, full bolts ons my little GT pushed out [email protected] MPH... Putting down 357hp and 355 TQ through a 4k stall and 4.10 gears..... my car ended up being a daily driver/strip warrior and finally been getting her back to form..... doing a new build and shooting for 5.3 BB Stoker combo with my ported TFS Heads, bigger cams, and 11.7 to 1 CR....shooting for 400 + HP and 10s 1/4 mile on just MT Drag Radials on 17x9s.....for those of you whom remember I pull my front end off the ground with same set up with old engine so she bites hard..... I will post my progress as I have been repainting parts on the car, new interior, and basically returning her to show ready.... got the bug going to car shows recently and now that I am retired from the Army after 22 years I will enjoy my hobby again.... I have tons of experience with different engine combos, parts, cams and dyno results or feedback from almost all 2v N/A stuff ...so just let me know.... I am looking forwarding to chating with anyone interested so hi to the new folks and hey to the old guys out there ...... looking forward to playing again...

Ed

I am getting an annoying clicking noise when braking from the front on my 89. This just started at the tail end of last week and has gone from only clicking sometimes to clicking all the time. The harder I brake the louder the clicking gets. There are no shakes, shimmy's or vibrations in the steering wheel, brakes, or brake pedal when braking and clicking is occurring. The car stops as normal and does not pull to either side. Basically the car runs, drives and stops normal other than the clicking.

It sounds like the clicking is coming from the drivers front of the car. Yesterday, I pulled all the wheels off and gave a good look to everything but I did not find anything. Rear brakes are new with maybe 700 miles on them. They looked good, nothing loose or missing. Front brake pads are ~60% or so and worn fairly even. Rotors are shot. There are good sized grooves in both. Wheel bearings are tight. I loosened the calipers, cleaned the pins and re-bent the clips on the inner pad that go into the caliper piston because they felt a little loose. Clicking noise is still present.

Not sure where to go from here. Has anyone had a similar issue? If so what was the cause? I think I am going to pull the drivers wheel off again when I get home and see I can see something rubbing somewhere. Maybe it is occurring when the car nose dives during braking? IDK.....

After 15k put into it and still counting. Have to install top convertible top and then fix some minor issues.

Appreciate the add doing a 2000 GT convertible build. Basically taking everything I liked from a Cobra and Saleen and building what I want. 4.6 2V MMR built 600 series, Auto into 5 speed. So yes it’s a Fobra. Just building what I have and was looking for a place to ask questions and get actual information not commentaries. Looking forward to meeting some like minded people.

Just got pulled over for not having my front license plate on. Don’t want to deal with getting tickets and harassed so I looking for a kit that is motorized and will fit a GT since I could only really find 1 that said it fits the LX version.

Hello this is my first post. I just got a 92 5.0 convertible with automatic trans. The car supposedly ran when parked approximately 10 yes ago. I bought it along with a 88 gt hatch with no motor. My plan was to put the motor and trans from the 91 into the 88 but I wanted to get it running first..
The car will crank and will run with starting fluid. The fuel pump runs constantly with key on and there is a very faint CEL. The CEL is bright and constant while cranking. I have checked the pip with a led light probed on the first wire of the tfi and I get flashes as engine cranks over. I then went to check for 5v ref at the salt and pepper plugs on top of the engine. I have no voltage on pin 2 but have 5.35 volts on pins 7 and 8 which are for the oil and temp gauges.
I have no idea why there would be voltage on those pins. I have tried to pull engine codes using the CEL and using a test light and can't get it to give any codes. I disconnected the brown plug at driver side fender and ran a jumper for the red/green tracer wire to power the computer and there is no longer 5 volts on those pins but nothing on pin 2 either. I have tried a different ecm with the same results. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I'm kinda new here. I've had a few mustangs before (a 77' and a 99') and I recently got a 87' convertible manual 4-banger. I've heard that these cars were the pinnacle of mustang modification. I know for a fact that I want to put a V8 in it, but I'm also thinking I want more HP than the stock 5.0 302 although I'm not sure. What would I need to do a Coyote swap, I'm having trouble getting a complete picture of everything I'd have to do.

I'm planning on doing this mostly alone on weekends or vacations from university. I make decent money for a student and understand I'll have to save. I'm not making this for the track but I do want a fun daily driver that has enough zip to race newer cars.

I'm looking for recommendations for what I should swap in and maybe a little direction (maybe a list) on how much i'll need to do.
Thank you.

I replaced the alt on my 98 cobra and the car will not start now...It actually backfired somewhere under the hood when I was trying to start it,,didnt see where it came from ..I was looking at my gages when it happened..Any ideas on it not starting or the backfire? Thank you.

I have an sandrail with a 99 3.8. The guy I bought it from said it was dynod at 197 hp. I am looking for a turbo kit. To add another 100-125 hp if possible on 91 octane. I am tearing the motor down for a full rebuild. I am a decent vw wrench. Many turbo vws. Just new to the 3.8.
Any suggestions on a company that can help?

New from NE Ohio. This is my first Mustang II it's a 75 mach 1 I picked it up in June 22 and have gotten it back to drivable condition. It still needs some work but I can deal with it. I don't want a trailer queen or show car. I want a nice driver. And so far I am very happy with it.

Bought replacement door panels from CJs and they don line up right

I'm helping a friend with his 351 swapped 1991 Notch. The car is running a MSPNP, no MAF, no IAC.

He has an Autometer Pro-Comp Ultra lite Wideband that has a range of 0V=10AFR and 4V=17AFR.

The car starts up and idles but the AFR is 17 on the gauge and in Tuner Studio. If increase the VE table in the idle area once the AFR starts to get to 15ish the engine will begin to surge. I tried timing values between 12 and 23 degrees, but it does not help with the surging. The best idle I got was with the engine lean and timing values around 21 degrees.

When I begin to increase the VE table the engine idle speed increase, so I find myself using the throttle screw to bring it back down.

Why won't the car idle with an AFR close to stoich?

I thought you guys might like this. $1,600 on local Craigslist

Hello everyone,

Here’s my issue and some backstory on why I started troubleshooting. So my 2004 Mach 1 will never start the first try. But it will start the second. I’ve changed the battery, I needed to anyways so I’m not sweating over the battery change. The fuel pump is new. It’s a Walbro 255LPH. New doesn’t mean good. So in another thread I posted I was chasing down a crank no start on this car and finally fixed it. I changed the fuel pump in the process. That’s when the hard start issue came about. The car runs great and I love driving it. But I want to tackle the hard start. So I plugged in my fuel pressure gauge and in the run position, it reads 5 PSI. That’s criminally low lol. I can cycle the key from off to run about 4 times and it will build up to about 35 PSI which is its normal range of fuel pressure. But between 30-40 PSI, the fuel pressure will drop to 20 PSI within one minute. It will fall to 10 PSI and stabilize there and it will take about half an hour to drop any further. When the car is running, it is about 30-35 PSI at idle. As soon as you turn the car off, it again drops QUICKLY to 20 PSI, then down to 10 PSI and stops dropping. What do you guys think? Fuel pump? It seems weak to only generate 5 PSI in the first cycle of off to run and I’ve gathered there are check valves inside the fuel pump itself that can go bad. There are no fuel leaks I can see, as in no fuel on the ground, around the injectors, etc. I also suspect a leaking injector but I doubt the fuel pressure would fall THAT FAST if a injector was leaking. The fuel filter has been changed when I put the Walbro pump in a couple months ago. What do you guys think? Fuel pump? I’m open to all advice here. There are no check engine lights.

Hello guys, Recently starting working on my 91 Notch with a older HP turbo kit, SVO heads and a Tremec 3550 transmission. The car is originally from Hawaii and spent some time in Vegas. When I originally bought it was sporting a weld drag pack since I have put on a mores streetable tire setup with a set of NT555RII on the back.

Recently I have had an issue with it blowing rear main seals, I have vented both valve covers to a catch can however it still keeps blowing them. The care is currently under the knife getting a terminator X installed and the motor gone through to find out what a possible issue is.

I don't know a whole lot about the history of the car other then it went 11.3 with an inexperienced driver.

I have a 2001 Mustang 3.8L V6 base model manual transmission, about 3 months ago my car over heated, which caused my radiator to explode. I replaced the radiator, did a full flush, replaced the CHT sensor, the oil pressure sensor ( because my oil pressure gauge kept fluctuating from low to middle to high frequently), was running fine, then I got a P0305 code along with a P1285, I replaced the coil pack P 0305 hasn't come back but the P1285 is still present, I have noticed that the radiator fan isn't turning on at all but I have check the power to the fan itself and the fan works but just don't turn on which I think is causing the car to overheat causing the P1285 OBD Code. The CHT that I replaced is located on the back of then engine on the driver side right before the firewall.

I don't know what else to check but I need to figure this out ASAP.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated..

Hey all. I have been running s550 wheels that I think come stock on an eco boost and I am doing the Cadillac ATS brake upgrade. Does anyone have any experience running these rims or something similar with the big brakes? Do they fit?

Who is making/selling the Fiore Quadrant and Firewall Adjustment? Asking for a neighbor. I bought mine maybe a decade ago and I am happy with how well it works.

Recently purchased an 01 GT. When I bought it, it had a timing issue. I have replaced the Tensioner, chains, and guides and put it back together. When I Crunk it up for the first time, it revved at 4000rpm. Now any time I crank it, it goes to 3200 rpm and settles at 2600rpm. I don't leave it running long enough to warm up because I'm unsure of what may happen. I've cleaned the throttle body and checked all connections, sensors and vacuum lines. I can't seem to find any reason for it to do this. When researching it, there isn't many posts about a high rpm on startup, and what I have found, all describes the complete opposite of what mine is doing. Anyone experienced something similar to this? Looking for suggestions before I tear it down again.

The title says it all. Whatcha got? Thanks in advance.

My 92 gt was a New York car so it’s got some surface rust all over but the only major structural rust is on the drivers side door jam. It’s definitely going to need to be cut out. Can anyone who has done this give me a ballpark of what it’s going to cost me to have a body shop fix this and what’s involved? I assume you just remove the fender panel and the door and then cut it and weld in some new metal. Any input will be much appreciated thanks.

guys... kind of a bizarre question but is there any possibility on finding a retro fitted svo hood? im turbo 2.3 swapping my mustang and i would like to use the oem intercooler set up because i think the off center scoop looks kinda bad ass only problem is... i have an 1987 lx and im pretty sure my headlights would be an issue. dose anyone know of a company or a place to find what im looking for? heres a pic of the hood so you all know what im talkin about

I keep a battery tender on my battery and the positive cable is getting white crust. What causes this and how do i clean it up?

this bbk setup is old, thinking about a new intake and carburator, any recomendations for this 331 strokker with a big cam?