Progress Thread Darkfader's 93 Gt Progress - Back to work

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Beautiful work. Even used rivets on the dust shields. You'd be amazed at how much an adjustment changes the look of a wheel.

You can also use some string with weights on the end dangling from various spots on the subframe and frame of the car while it's up on the lift. Lay some tape on the floor and mark it. It'll allow you to take measurements of the orientation of the sub frame and suspension components. Helps if something is tweaked.

I hoped with just bolting on everything the way I did with absolutely no real adjustments that might be my issue.

I did carefully square the new K member to the rear when I installed it, but perhaps I should revisit those measurements as well.
 
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I did a little garage cleaning today and then took advantage of the sunny 50 degree day by wheeling the car outside and doing a little pressure washing in the engine bay. Not gonna lie, the more I look at it, I feel I should definitely do something with this engine compartment. Scott rods panels and paint? Might be a bit out of my scope to be honest. The core support drives me nuts too. Ugh. I don’t know what to do, but when there’s a spotless brand new power plant in there, I’ll hate the ugly surrounding sheet metal.

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I also played around with the CC plates to see if I could get the front wheels under the fenders. See the pics below. Obviously much much better but still some poke. If I had read the fine print a little closer, I would’ve known my front setup widens the track by .3” per side. Add the 275 tires and this is what I have. Not sure I like it. Maybe a different size tire for the front may be a little more pleasing to the eye. Not sure what I’ll do there. MM calls for -.75* camber but I doubt that’s enough to get these tires under the fender. The 94-95 spindles allegedly narrow the track by 1/4” per side, but I’m told they throw the geometry on the tie rod off. Bummers today I guess.

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Iirc 94 spindles only put the hubs about .100" in per side compared to the 96+ (and about the same wider than 87-93 spindles), not really worth worrying about for the expense. My 17x9s with 245/45s fit about like yours but with a bit less sidewall budge. If its really bothering you though the fenders can be "massaged" out some. Seen it, havent done it.
 
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One small thing, you might think about painting the steering shaft. It’ll get ugly on you otherwise.

I figured I better get some protection on there. Maybe some of the satin black chassis paint I have will do the trick.

Iirc 94 spindles only put the hubs about .100" in per side compared to the 96+ (and about the same wider than 87-93 spindles), not really worth worrying about for the expense. My 17x9s with 245/45s fit about like yours but with a bit less sidewall budge. If its really bothering you though the fenders can be "massaged" out some. Seen it, havent done it.

I may just put some 1/4” wheel spacers on the rear and see what that looks like.
 
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Ok the excite is real over here now. After speaking with the gents at Trick Flow, I was assured that piston to valve clearance will be fine using the Icon -11 pistons with their track heat top end kit. Stage 1 cam definitely ok, stage 2 cam most likely ok too. I don’t want to make things overly complicated so I’m just going to go with the original plan. So I had to jump on the 10% Black Friday deal. This was on the porch this evening:

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I should be able to drop the block off at the machine shop Tuesday. I’ll bring the kit as well so they can clearance the cylinders for the rods. I had planned to ask for a chamfer on the oil valley drain holes also. Besides hot tank, new cam bearings, freeze plugs, and the overbore and rod clearance, is there anything else I should ask for? They will also check main bore straightness. I don’t anticipate any issues there but might as well make sure while it’s torn down. After it’s done, I’ll do a dry fit, measuring P/V clearance and then have them balance the rotating assembly with new 28oz harmonic and flywheel.
 
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Man! Good stuff
Great build and thread! This is going to be one hell of a car when you're done.

Thanks guys! I’ve dreamt of this car for a long time. I can see exactly what I want in my head. Hopefully we all see it in real life sooner than later.

The block will be 3-4 weeks at the machine shop, so now I’ll be concentrating on cleaning the engine bay up to look more presentable.
 
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Not much to report since my last check-in. My daily driver suffered a boo-boo from a perfectly timed hunk of snow/ice falling from a power line which obliterated my passengers mirror. Toyota is very proud of their mirrors, so a few hundred had to come out of the mustang fund to replace. Behold my factory replacement mirror made of a 24k gold/unobtainium alloy. $$$$

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In other news, the 302 block is loaded up and getting dropped off at the machine shop along with the stroker kit first thing in the morning.

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I went ahead and pulled the fenders off as well as removed the brake booster, master and stock prop valve. Still considering my options for beautifying this engine bay. What a PITA those booster nuts are. Can’t wait to get the new one bolted in.

What are the group’s opinions on dustless blasting? I found a guy semi-local that would do the whole car for $900. It seems like that could save a lot of labor in paint prep.

Also leaning toward a new core support if I’m going to all the trouble to make the bay look nice. I’ve never tried to drill spot welds either so I’m hesitant.

What does everyone do with the wire harnesses when painting the bay? Pull the grommets and harnesses through into the passenger compartment?

Couple pics:

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What’s wrong with your rad support?

It’s not obvious in my pics, but the lower is pretty mangled. I’d say it was either towed or pulled by the lower. I tried to persuade it back into position and I think things would line up and fit ok as-is, but with all the work I’ve done already, I feel like the car deserves a new clean support, and all of the bay smoothed and fresh paint. Quickly turning this thing into a multi year project. Lol