Progress Thread Let's try this again...

What motor mounts are you currently using? Many of the poly style do increase the height of the engine so you could look at the convertible to lower it back down.
 
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If you know a welder or muffler shop they may be able to tack the nuts behind the strut towers and the cowl area. Would be a whole lot easier with just needing one ratchet wrench. Another option would be nut certs. They go in the hole and then flatten out so you can install a bolt. It would be the easiest option. That tool comes in handy for so many projects.
 
Same issue with the oil fill cap and STB,chucked the fill cap in a lathe and faced 1/4" off,problem solved.
I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
79-93-mustang-front-sway-bar-m_ae2a569f (1).jpg
 
Same issue with the oil fill cap and STB,chucked the fill cap in a lathe and faced 1/4" off,problem solved.
I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
79-93-mustang-front-sway-bar-m_ae2a569f (1).jpg
Good, easy, and cheap solution to the cap problem!! Nice work!
And I agree...... he is missing part of those brackets unless things have changed since the last pic. Good catch.
 
I found out that the factory fill cap is hollow,so the end result when removing 1/4" may not be what you would expect.lol
If your not concerned about some bullsh*t stock looking cap the end result is just fine.May have to post a pic.
 
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I found out that the factory fill cap is hollow,so the end result when removing 1/4" may not be what you would expect.lol
If your not concerned about some bullsh*t stock looking cap the end result is just fine.May have to post a pic.
Yeah, let’s see it. Strut brace probably hides most of the cap anyway.
 
I took it to my local resto shop. The old man there wrestled the cap off and pulled a smaller stock one off a junker in the back. I felt like an idiot, but it was the cheapest and quickest option and now I can change my oil, so I'm happy. Apparently the cap that was on it was some kind of weird chunky aftermarket thing.

I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
The sway bar is about the only part that I haven't changed down there at this point, so you're probably right. Would that cause a lot of play in the steering? There's quite a bit but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I don't have a rag joint to worry about anymore and I don't think it's my ball joints or tie rod ends since they were just replaced. I'll grab a pic tomorrow morning, I'm planning on changing the oil and cleaning up a few other things while I'm on vacation from work.
 
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I took it to my local resto shop. The old man there wrestled the cap off and pulled a smaller stock one off a junker in the back. I felt like an idiot, but it was the cheapest and quickest option and now I can change my oil, so I'm happy. Apparently the cap that was on it was some kind of weird chunky aftermarket thing.


The sway bar is about the only part that I haven't changed down there at this point, so you're probably right. Would that cause a lot of play in the steering? There's quite a bit but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I don't have a rag joint to worry about anymore and I don't think it's my ball joints or tie rod ends since they were just replaced. I'll grab a pic tomorrow morning, I'm planning on changing the oil and cleaning up a few other things while I'm on vacation from work.
I would grab a helper and have them turn the wheel while you’re under the car looking at the movement.
You should be able to see where your play is if you attempt to hold things in place while they turn the wheel.
 
Ok, here’s a picture of the sway bar mounting points
F729EA25-183A-44FA-A62B-AF00C0899DCE.jpeg


I have another problem, theres a big show (Radwood) in Chicago this weekend so I wanted to finally get my passenger side window switch wired up so I could put the interior back together.

I decided I’d take a look at the drivers side switch thinking they’d be symmetrical and while I was pulling the door panel, the wires for the power lock switch got pulled out.

I’ve tried a lot of combinations but none of them seem to work, the doors either only lock or only unlock, or actuate on their own without me hitting the switch. I’ve seen the wiring diagram and all the wire colors are correct but the connections don’t match what I have on the passenger’s side, so I’m guessing it’s not accurate for the driver’s side either.

I know white/black is hot all the time, but that’s about all I know.

I think it’s supposed to be as follows:

Pnk/grn——. .——Blk

Blk/wht——. . ——empty

Pnk/yllw—-. .——-Blk



However on the passenger’s side the black and white wire is not in the center, instead it’s in one of the corners. I’ll grab a picture when I get home, but it’s kind of a puzzle.

Plus I’m red/green colorblind so that’s not helping either.
 
Ok, here is the passenger side lock switch:

AFF976E3-332A-4846-AF43-6E789762B1DF.jpeg


And here’s the diagram I’ve been looking at:

70ED30C5-1131-4E51-82DF-BB349F20785E.jpeg


It looks like the black/white wire is supposed to be in the middle row of both switches, but here it’s in the bottom row (or top depending on perspective).

Is the driver’s side switch wired the same as the passenger’s? And if so, where do I put the two black ground wires?

Edit: said drivers twice, meant passenger’s.
 
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I’ve made a few isolated posts already, but I figured I’d give you guys an overall update on the car’s (and my) status.

A lot has happened in my life over the course of three years, but unfortunately not much has been done to the car. I got a set of new rims and tires in 2022 to replace the old mismatched and discontinued tires the car came with. Same Saleen black basket style, just a little more modern in terms of size and a little beefier in the rear.

IMG_2949.jpeg


Since then, my family has moved to South Carolina (I’ve been here a year now), so I no longer have to worry about salt on the roads and I can drive and work on my car year round if I want to, which is great. Cost of living is generally a little cheaper down here as well, which means I’ll be able to get out on my own a little bit sooner.

On that front, I’ve been making some slow progress. My savings were wiped out due to an unexpected hospital visit last year, but I’m in school and trying to find a job preferably in car sales or service writing. I’ve already had an interview with a Honda dealership down here that I think went pretty well.

As for the car, due to some personal struggles following the move it has mostly sat in the garage until a couple weeks ago. After a new battery and starter solenoid, it fired right up and I’ve been driving it.

That being said, it still has some issues that I’ll need to address in the future which I’ll list below:

The engine needs to be rebuilt. There’s a moderate lifter tick once the oil heats up and a shop up north told me my crankshaft bearings are probably shot. I’m running a thicker oil which has helped for now. It still runs really well. I’ve put together a couple of parts lists that I’ll share in another thread, but I can say that it’s likely going to be tremendously expensive, so I’m putting it off for as long as I can for right now.

I never got around to diagnosing the loose steering, but I’m almost certain that it’s due to some broken part in the column and I’m keeping an eye on it. 86 tilt columns are somewhat rare, but there is one close by that I’ve been looking at.

Also in the category of things I never got to is making sure the frame is straight. I did end up taking it to another shop up north for a second opinion, and the guy immediately pointed out, rather worryingly, that my left front wheel is further back than my right. The car still tracks straight, and an alignment confirmed that everything is green suspension-wise, so I’m not sure what’s going on there but I’m definitely planning on taking it to a shop down here to make sure everything is square. Maybe something to do with the caster/camber plates?

Finally, after some help from you guys in a recent post, I’m pretty certain that I have the wrong transmission bolted to my engine. Everything points to it being a 4cyl gearbox. It’s lasted this long without issue and I don’t typically drive the car hard, so I’m planning on replacing it when I get the engine rebuilt.

And that pretty much wraps everything up. The car and myself still have issues, but they’re getting worked on. The car definitely still turns a lot more heads than I do, that’s for sure.

If anybody knows any good shops in the Charleston, SC area let me know!
 
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I’m in a cars and coffee fb group that I haven’t been involved in. I guess it’s time to get involved.
Man……. Other than scrolling through instagram for golf tips, and seeing some cool Mustangs, (and maybe a few other things) :pthis is my only social media I really participate in. I hear so much about the Mustang bookface groups…… but havnt jumped in the water yet!! Tempting…… but just never wanted the other BS that FB brings with it.
 
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Man……. Other than scrolling through instagram for golf tips, and seeing some cool Mustangs, (and maybe a few other things) :pthis is my only social media I really participate in. I hear so much about the Mustang bookface groups…… but havnt jumped in the water yet!! Tempting…… but just never wanted the other BS that FB brings with it.
I pretty much only use Facebook for events and the marketplace these days. All the cool kids in my generation moved on to instagram and TikTok. The way I see it, instagram is full of coked out chicks and roided out dudes. It’s a cesspool of vanity and false altruism. TikTok is a Chinese intelligence tool/psyop, and it needs to be banned yesterday.

Anyway,

I contacted a body shop that gets good reviews and seems to have experience working on old metal. I explained the car’s history, and the guy told me that it sounds like the car’s had a hard life and he can’t promise anything, but he’ll take a look. I’ll let you guys know what he says.

Speaking of that history, I was told by the previous owner (some time after I bought it) that it had been in an accident during its time in California. I did a VIN check on Bumper, and there were no accidents reported. My understanding is that means that whatever happened wasn’t serious enough to warrant a salvage title.

I also found out that it was impounded in 2006, so that’s interesting. I wonder if it has anything to do with all the broken glass I found under the rear seat after I bought it.