Progress Thread Let's try this again...

stanglx2002

CT Material here
Mod Dude
Jul 7, 2005
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What motor mounts are you currently using? Many of the poly style do increase the height of the engine so you could look at the convertible to lower it back down.
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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If you know a welder or muffler shop they may be able to tack the nuts behind the strut towers and the cowl area. Would be a whole lot easier with just needing one ratchet wrench. Another option would be nut certs. They go in the hole and then flatten out so you can install a bolt. It would be the easiest option. That tool comes in handy for so many projects.
 

OldManRiver

Active Member
Feb 14, 2015
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Same issue with the oil fill cap and STB,chucked the fill cap in a lathe and faced 1/4" off,problem solved.
I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
79-93-mustang-front-sway-bar-m_ae2a569f (1).jpg
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Same issue with the oil fill cap and STB,chucked the fill cap in a lathe and faced 1/4" off,problem solved.
I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
79-93-mustang-front-sway-bar-m_ae2a569f (1).jpg
Good, easy, and cheap solution to the cap problem!! Nice work!
And I agree...... he is missing part of those brackets unless things have changed since the last pic. Good catch.
 

OldManRiver

Active Member
Feb 14, 2015
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I found out that the factory fill cap is hollow,so the end result when removing 1/4" may not be what you would expect.lol
If your not concerned about some bullsh*t stock looking cap the end result is just fine.May have to post a pic.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
I found out that the factory fill cap is hollow,so the end result when removing 1/4" may not be what you would expect.lol
If your not concerned about some bullsh*t stock looking cap the end result is just fine.May have to post a pic.
Yeah, let’s see it. Strut brace probably hides most of the cap anyway.
 

Alldegree

Active Member
Sep 14, 2019
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I took it to my local resto shop. The old man there wrestled the cap off and pulled a smaller stock one off a junker in the back. I felt like an idiot, but it was the cheapest and quickest option and now I can change my oil, so I'm happy. Apparently the cap that was on it was some kind of weird chunky aftermarket thing.

I still think your missing the top plate(plate that sits inside the U shaped portion) that holds the sway bar bushings in place,but you'd need to verify.The complete brackets should look like this.
The sway bar is about the only part that I haven't changed down there at this point, so you're probably right. Would that cause a lot of play in the steering? There's quite a bit but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I don't have a rag joint to worry about anymore and I don't think it's my ball joints or tie rod ends since they were just replaced. I'll grab a pic tomorrow morning, I'm planning on changing the oil and cleaning up a few other things while I'm on vacation from work.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
3,021
2,295
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Long Island, NY
I took it to my local resto shop. The old man there wrestled the cap off and pulled a smaller stock one off a junker in the back. I felt like an idiot, but it was the cheapest and quickest option and now I can change my oil, so I'm happy. Apparently the cap that was on it was some kind of weird chunky aftermarket thing.


The sway bar is about the only part that I haven't changed down there at this point, so you're probably right. Would that cause a lot of play in the steering? There's quite a bit but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I don't have a rag joint to worry about anymore and I don't think it's my ball joints or tie rod ends since they were just replaced. I'll grab a pic tomorrow morning, I'm planning on changing the oil and cleaning up a few other things while I'm on vacation from work.
I would grab a helper and have them turn the wheel while you’re under the car looking at the movement.
You should be able to see where your play is if you attempt to hold things in place while they turn the wheel.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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If you know a welder or muffler shop they may be able to tack the nuts behind the strut towers and the cowl area.

I regret not doing that when I redid my engine bay. It was on my list of stuff to do, but I just forgot all about it until after it was painted and I was putting stuff back in
 

Alldegree

Active Member
Sep 14, 2019
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Chicago
Ok, here’s a picture of the sway bar mounting points
F729EA25-183A-44FA-A62B-AF00C0899DCE.jpeg


I have another problem, theres a big show (Radwood) in Chicago this weekend so I wanted to finally get my passenger side window switch wired up so I could put the interior back together.

I decided I’d take a look at the drivers side switch thinking they’d be symmetrical and while I was pulling the door panel, the wires for the power lock switch got pulled out.

I’ve tried a lot of combinations but none of them seem to work, the doors either only lock or only unlock, or actuate on their own without me hitting the switch. I’ve seen the wiring diagram and all the wire colors are correct but the connections don’t match what I have on the passenger’s side, so I’m guessing it’s not accurate for the driver’s side either.

I know white/black is hot all the time, but that’s about all I know.

I think it’s supposed to be as follows:

Pnk/grn——. .——Blk

Blk/wht——. . ——empty

Pnk/yllw—-. .——-Blk



However on the passenger’s side the black and white wire is not in the center, instead it’s in one of the corners. I’ll grab a picture when I get home, but it’s kind of a puzzle.

Plus I’m red/green colorblind so that’s not helping either.
 

Alldegree

Active Member
Sep 14, 2019
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Chicago
Ok, here is the passenger side lock switch:

AFF976E3-332A-4846-AF43-6E789762B1DF.jpeg


And here’s the diagram I’ve been looking at:

70ED30C5-1131-4E51-82DF-BB349F20785E.jpeg


It looks like the black/white wire is supposed to be in the middle row of both switches, but here it’s in the bottom row (or top depending on perspective).

Is the driver’s side switch wired the same as the passenger’s? And if so, where do I put the two black ground wires?

Edit: said drivers twice, meant passenger’s.
 
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