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Also, given that both my MAF and TB are now 70mm, I think I’ll ditch the MAF when I go MS.

Picked up this, and hope it fits over the Accufab 70mm.

Edit: it does

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I'm for this just to see if he can get it to fit under the MM STB.
I'd love the power pipe,just not willing to ditch the brace on my t-top car.
I had the 75mm throttle body, 4" power pipe, and the MM STB and they fit fine. Unfortunately I'm going to have to ditch the MM STB going forward as it won't work with my Cobra engine and aftercooler.

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For you suspension guys, is double wishbone so advantageous that we can assume its superiority? For purposes of measuring performance, Griggs & MM both have proven track records in competitive motorsports. Would/should we assume that this would have outperformed those cars? Or... Is it more of a better NVH/ride-quality thing? I'm reluctant to go in a direction without being able to see proven advantages.
 
For you suspension guys, is double wishbone so advantageous that we can assume its superiority? For purposes of measuring performance, Griggs & MM both have proven track records in competitive motorsports. Would/should we assume that this would have outperformed those cars? Or... Is it more of a better NVH/ride-quality thing? I'm reluctant to go in a direction without being able to see proven advantages.
Griggs also offers a SLA setup for the front, as well as Agent 47 I believe. They are considered to be superior but you'd need a pretty competent driver to take advantage of the increased handling. I just went through on Griggs site and configured a SLA package that was about $9500 so I think I'm out on that one. Also it's pretty well known that the rear end (stock anyway) is the biggest problem for handling on these cars and just doing a TQ Arm and PHB with the right springs/dampers and coilovers up front will work wonders on these cars... especially with a K member that improves the front geometry.
 
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The Griggs setup was spendy because it required you to also purchase their specific K-member for the kit. So it was a pretty extensive setup.

This new Ridetech SLA setup is stated to work with any K-member, including stock. So essentially you are bolting in a new control arm and the upper shock mount and the new spindle.

No idea on pricing yet, or a release date.
 
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One of the advantages of the SLA is rim width. The McPherson strut setup that is factory on our cars limits the distance you can shove a wheel inboard. You still have to consider the tire rubbing on the subframe but I have seen some guys notch the frame and beef it up to stuff some wide rubber under their car. Not something I would do to my Coupe but these were all out road race cars and pretty much cut up at every level.

I have both Griggs and MM and would go with the MM gear if I did another one. Less money and frankly for a mostly street car I like their construction better.

I would also encourage the T56 swap vs the TKX if you are looking at the 26 spline input models. You are literally $600 dollars difference and that sixth gear is well worth it. I have a TKO 5-speed in the Bird and should have just ponied up and got the 6-speed...one of my biggest regrets. If you are wanting to stay with a 10 spline input (do not need a new clutch) the issue for me with the TKX's is the gearing vs. the Z-Spec WC T5. Granted the TKX can hold a lot more torque but the gearing is not ideal IMO.
 
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Decided to tinker around a bit in a spare A9L and map some stuff out. With all the ECUs failing I wanted to kinda see what components these ECUs used and what would need to be replaced to fix what. Yes, I know there are folks that fix these. But you should know how I operate by now.

I know I should be working on my actual car but I need another break from it and some mental stimulation. Might put what I’ve learned into a YouTube video. Been having fun growing my channel.

This one seems ok other than one bad cap. I actually wish I could get my hands on an ECU with a constantly running fuel pump. That’s a common failure and I’d lkke to do a how-to on how to diagnose and repair it.


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5103BCC9-40FF-4F0E-ACE9-21D96A852640.jpeg
 
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Decided to tinker around a bit in a spare A9L and map some stuff out. With all the ECUs failing I wanted to kinda see what components these ECUs used and what would need to be replaced to fix what. Yes, I know there are folks that fix these. But you should know how I operate by now.

I know I should be working on my actual car but I need another break from it and some mental stimulation. Might put what I’ve learned into a YouTube video. Been having fun growing my channel.

This one seems ok other than one bad cap. I actually wish I could get my hands on an ECU with a constantly running fuel pump. That’s a common failure and I’d lkke to do a how-to on how to diagnose and repair it.


CEFD2515-E970-45C9-925D-D31A83AD7388.jpeg
5103BCC9-40FF-4F0E-ACE9-21D96A852640.jpeg
I have my old A9L sitting in a box ever since I removed it from the car for the MS2PNP a few years back. I'll never be going back to it... and was just hanging on to it for no good reason. Last time I had it in the car it worked fine, let me know if I can help out.
 
I have my old A9L sitting in a box ever since I removed it from the car for the MS2PNP a few years back. I'll never be going back to it... and was just hanging on to it for no good reason. Last time I had it in the car it worked fine, let me know if I can help out.


Thanks, but I actually need a broken one to tinker with. My fear is the minute I put a WTB out for a busted A9L (specifically one with a constantly running fuel pump) folks will want $400+ for it.


BTW, have you seen what used A9L's are going for on Ebay? It's nuts.
 
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