Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

No I don’t have it anywhere but FB marketplace amd OfferUp. Probably should have figured this out earlier. I don’t want to throw it away so for now I’ll save it and maybe someone trying to ‘restore’ a Fox will want it.
 
Was going back through my thread trying to find the Paxton vent fuel filter P/N as i know it was discussed. Couldn't find it, however i came across this post which i think i will now finally follow through on, especially since we've all been talking about it again. So i purchased this hose barb:

1766083276847.webp


And will plumb it just like the quoted picture, then cap the barb coming off the airbox assembly. This is a 3/8" x 3/8" 90 degree hose barb that has the nut to hold it in place. I assume i'll put some silicone or something on the washers to prevent any air getting in when i install it.
I think you're saying you're going to do it like my picture. If that's the case all you need is a 90° hose barb. I believe it was a 3/8 NPT x 3/8 barb. The threads are NPT (national pipe thread) so they are tapered and seal pretty much all by themselves. Just put some permatex thread sealant on the fitting before you screw it in.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220179?rrec=true

This is assuming your plastic elbow is like mine was. It has a threaded bung already on it but the bottom is not drilled out. All I had to do was drill it out and screw in the fitting.

I'd put a little oil seperator in line rather than the filter, but the filter is fine if you check it regularly. Seperator is better becasue you just drain and reuse.

I have a spare elbow if you need one.
 
I think you're saying you're going to do it like my picture. If that's the case all you need is a 90° hose barb. I believe it was a 3/8 NPT x 3/8 barb. The threads are NPT (national pipe thread) so they are tapered and seal pretty much all by themselves. Just put some permatex thread sealant on the fitting before you screw it in.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220179?rrec=true

This is assuming your plastic elbow is like mine was. It has a threaded bung already on it but the bottom is not drilled out. All I had to do was drill it out and screw in the fitting.

I'd put a little oil seperator in line rather than the filter, but the filter is fine if you check it regularly. Seperator is better becasue you just drain and reuse.

I have a spare elbow if you need one.
Yes i'm doing it exactly like your picture. My inlet elbow has the provision to drill out just like you are mentioning, just need to replicate your photo. I also have a J&L Oil Separator on order that i will put in this line coming from the oil fill neck on the passenger side valve cover.

So basically instead of having the "PCV" (not really) line starting at the oil fill neck on the valve cover, over to a fuel filter with no check valve, to BEFORE the MAF into the airbox... It will go from the oil fill neck on the valve cover, through an oil separator (catch can) and into the inlet elbow AFTER the MAF, which, if i'm doing this right, should be the correct way to do it.
 
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Well we are moved out and in my parents for the first night of many. What a f’n weekend that was. With Christmas, my 4 year old being out if school for two weeks, my 2 month old going through some sort developmental leap and needing to be held constantly and not napping as much, all while working (mostly, I did have to take some PTO)… I’m exhausted.

Tomorrow is the first walkthrough for the renovation project. Still have some odds and ends to wrap up at the house but I don’t think any demo will happen this week anyways.
 
Had to get the stang SMOG'd. I've spent a lot of money and time researching to make sure this IS SMOG legal so i really wasn't too worried. However, these guys did the most thorough inspection i've experienced yet. They even checked my timing which i've never in my life of owning modified mustangs have seen a SMOG shop do. They spent a ton of time with flashlights looking in the engine, at what i'm assuming, is my JBA headers trying to find an E.O. number. They had long mirrors to look under the car as well as this guy on his knees poking around.

This state is just fantastic! :doh:

Fox SMOG.webp

I'm all for the environment, blah blah blah but just hook it up to the machine and if it pollutes too much fail me. Why (i know why) all the huff and puff with checking E.O. numbers, timing, looking at parts, etc. Such a money grab by the state.

I probably won't go to this place again, when i thought the guy was moving my car into the shop bay, he just left and drove off with it. Ended up going around the block but I was like, uhhh wtf are you doing, why do you need to drive my car? Then he proceeded to burn up my clutch getting it into the shop.

Either way, it passed so i don't have to worry about this for another two years.

Edit: one thing i noticed is my NO numbers are pretty close to the max (15mph test - MAX: 807 / AVG: 413 / MEAS: 717 and 25mph test - MAX: 746 / AVG: 366 / MEAS: 730). I wonder if i'm running lean? Really need to get the wideband sensor installed.
 
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So i've been daily driving my Mustang trying to get the Valvoline Restore and Protect moving and grooving around in the engine, granted, its only been like a little over a week. My #7 cylinder is still giving me issues. I was driving the car yesterday and and it started running a little more rough and seemingly misfiring/bucking more at low rpms with load. Not unlike it did before, so i knew something was up with my #7 spark plug. So my first plan was to pull the plug and clean it thinking there would be fresh oil sludge on it. I took it out at work and sat at my desk wiping it down, which didn't really work. I took it outside and and sprayed Brake Cleaner on it and kept wiping. Didn't really improve the look of the plug head. All black carbon fouled looking, but not oily sludge like from my photos a while back or what i was expecting. I did notice some fresh looking oil on the plug threads (but not above the threads) which all coincides with too much oil is getting into that cylinder for some reason. So I started looking up plug photos online, and it seems like i may be running really rich on that cylinder to warrant the blackened plug?

Anywho, with cleaning my existing plug not really doing its job i popped a fresh plug in (correctly gapped) and all is well, car is running seemingly fine now until it fouls this one.

My catch can came in the mail. IF i can find time to install that, would it be better installed in the stock PCV line from lower intake to upper intake. OR, between the oil fill neck and the airbox line from the s/c'r kit? Or it doesn't matter?
 
Are you sure you don’t have a bad valve seal or bad injector? You could move the injector to another cylinder to test that.
I'm not sure of anything haha! However, i did recently have all the injectors cleaned and flow tested (and repaired) so i "highly" doubt its the injectors. This problem was present prior to me doing the injectors.

I've brought this topic up before throughout my thread (don't expect anyone to remember) and i believe it was @Noobz347 who mentioned the valve seals. I was thinking a stuck piston ring but you all are much more knowledgable than I.

If its a bad valve seal, would it be worth finally putting my TFS heads on it? I wouldn't want to spend any money fixing my E7's and i have the TFS Twisted Wedge 170's sitting on my garage shelf. Again, I believe Noobz then mentioned with the heads i may be pushing the power limits of what my injectors can handle and i'm not going down the rabbit hole of new injectors/tune/etc at the moment. Maybe i could just not push the car for a while, or maybe with the stock TB/Intake/Cam just throwing the heads on wouldn't make a huge difference anyways.
 
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I cannot member if you tried this already or not but have you done a leak down test? Compression test is okay but a leak down will help diagnose if it’s a ring issue or valves. If that all tests good then I would suspect the valve seals. It could very well be a worn valve guide but a leak down test will find that.
 
I cannot member if you tried this already or not but have you done a leak down test? Compression test is okay but a leak down will help diagnose if it’s a ring issue or valves. If that all tests good then I would suspect the valve seals. It could very well be a worn valve guide but a leak down test will find that.
I haven't. I don't have an air compressor nor the proper gauge and my current living situation is not ideal (and won't be for some time) to conduct a leak down test. May need to bring it into a shop for this one.

I'm sort of on the theory that if a leak down test will cost me $200 or so (or more? no idea), would it be wise just to put that money towards having the heads installed? Only down side is if it is not the valve seals and its a piston ring, that route doesn't help me much.
 
It’s a gamble. Doesn’t take more than a pancake compressor so maybe you know someone that has one? I think you can rent the tool from a parts store but I’m not sure. I bought a Matco one years ago.
 
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