I could have done the pin from the top, but decided to go from the bottom simply for ease of installation. The top of these pins are knurled so once tapped in flush they don't move. I tightened the nyloc nuts without even holding onto the pin. Worked great.
92, and im with you, if my car was older I would probably spring for the bigger opening as well. I do have a staggered wheel setup so the smaller opening wouldn't cause me any problems but I might end up with a different wheel setup down the road so going with the right fenders is definitely gonna be in my best interest.
This little snippet is going in my mustang literature folder on my phone.I would lose my mind trying to recall the fender changes between 79 and 93. LoL
Fortunately, I know where we hide stuff.
Years Fender geometry 1979–1982 Original wheel opening. 1983–1986 Same basic fender geometry despite the nose changes. 1987–1990 Same basic geometry carried into the aero cars. 1991–1993 Enlarged wheel opening for the factory 16-inch wheel/tire package. The lower front edge of the opening angles farther forward, shortening the section ahead of the tire.
It showed up after I bought the car. But only after I figured out all the issues that the car had. Feller that had it before me was very nonchalant with preventive maintenance from what I could tell. I've probably only put 1500 miles on in 3 years, but I have changed the oil 5 times I believe. Last time I changed it, it wasn't terrible, and currently still looks pretty fresh with a couple hundred miles on it. I still get the tap every now and then on a warm startup. I figure at this point replacing lifters isn't a bad idea. I haven't gotten that far yet, but I have them on my summit wishlist.
