Fuel 1985 Mustang LX TBI Fuel lines HELP!!!

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
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31
Buchanan, GA
So I just finished rebuilding the TBI assembly on my 1985 Mustang 5.0 and the nut that screws into the back of the TBI assembly for the return fuel line has split in half. I cannot find replacement lines anywhere since it is the only year of TBI and I do not know what to do. It also seems that someone has deleted the charcoal canister system on my car because I cannot find a charcoal canister anywhere in the engine compartment and I hear a loud thump in the fuel tank after the vehicle has been running a minute or two and then I hear another loud thump in the fuel tank after the vehicle has been shut off for a few minutes. I want to replace the charcoal canister system and need to know how I can get all of the parts needed to replace this system and I need to know how I can get a replacement return line that screws into the back of the TBI assembly or some kind of modification I can do to fix the issue. I know the charcoal canister is available on cj pony parts but I don't know what other parts are needed to completely replace this system. PLEASE HELP ME FIX THESE ISSUES!!!
 
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jrichker

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since CFI is rare on Mustangs, some pictures of the TB would be helpful.


Code 85 CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing.

Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.

Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.



Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

Connecting the gas tank vent line directly to the intake manifold will result in fuel vapor being constantly sucked into the intake manifold. There is unmetered fuel that the computer cannot adjust for. The result is poor idle and poor fuel economy.

http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58191&stc=1&d=1241921055

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?

[img] http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments\58191

The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:
smp-cp402_df_xl.jpg



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
903_AIRTEX%20_pct_2F%20WELLS_7310014_1.jpg
 
Last edited:

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
825
492
123
NC
I had that happen on mine, but I was too lazy to hunt for the lines and made it carbed. Post a photo or two so we can see it. I may be able to help.
 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
Thanks for all your help guys. I have finally located the vent valve hose and have ordered all the parts to put the charcoal canister system back together. On an unrelated note I need to adjust my TV rod that goes from the driver side of the TFI assembly to the transmission. Is there a write up with pictures somewhere on how to properly do this? When I looked in my Haynes manual all it said was only certified technicians with special pressure testing tools at a service department or shop can adjust the TV rod on 1986 and older vehicles and I have looked all over Youtube and can find videos everywhere on how to adjust a TV cable but none on how to adjust a TV rod. This is the last issue I have with this car before I can drive it again and I was told if the TV rod is not adjusted properly I will burn up the transmission within a few miles.
 

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
825
492
123
NC
All of the CFI were. I've seen more than one inlet/ outlet size. I'll look in the shop and see if I still have e any of the parts lying about.
 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
Ok thanks 85 ragtop. I think I did finally find the proper procedure to adjust the TV rod but it calls for some kind of adjustment block part number D84P-70332-A. Does anyone know where I can get this block? It did say I could fabricate one and it even gave me the drill bit shanks that would work too but I would rather have the actual tool if I could get my hands on it since I plan on keeping this car forever and I plan on doing some serious performance modifications later on.
 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
That looks like a ford part number, ford dealer?
That’s what I was thinking too. I’m going to the dealer on Friday to get some warranty work done on my 2016 F-150 and I will ask them then. I was just trying to see if anyone knew where to get one if I can’t get it from Ford since everything has been discontinued by Ford for this car
 

slow84lx

Active Member
Jul 3, 2005
140
26
38
Dallas, TX
1984 was the first year of CFI and it was only used in Mustangs during the '84-'85 model years with the AOD transmission. It was used extensively on other Ford models during the mid-80's with some minor differences so there should be quite a few in the junkyards to get a line with a good nut from. The whole Mustang setup can be found occasionally in the classified sections of foureyedpride, usually really cheap or free.

There's lots of How To Adjust TV rod / cable info out there. Here's one. Scroll down for the rod adjustment info. No overpriced spacer block necessary. The performance upgrades you are speaking of would likely slightly alter the adjustment point anyway making the spacer block obsolete.

http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm
AOD Throttle Cable Fix and Adjust
FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive
LIFT TAB TYPE-TV CABLE ADJUSTMENT
IMPORTANT: The AOD transmission may feel like it is shifting at the right time when the TV cable is actually way off! The transmission will work for a while and then FAIL! It is critical that you learn to set the TV exactly like this paper says. Why?
So that you will "see" how it works, know that it's right and not be fiddling with it for an hour, when and if you have some other problem.


1. Lift tab up to unlock adjustment assembly.
2. Have someone floorboard the accelerator pedal from inside the vehicle.
While the pedal is floored, push on the throttle body arm to make sure it's bottomed against its stop (wide open). (Adjust throttle cable, if necessary).
3. While the throttle is floorboarded, lock the tab on TV adjuster.
4. Make scratch with hacksaw blade or knife up tight against the adjustment assembly. This is the MAX TV mark.
5. Unlock the tab and slide housing towards bare cable 5/16" and lock tab. You can use a 5/16" bolt as a gauge. Make another mark up tight against adjustment assembly. This is the MIN TV mark.
6. Make another mark midway between MAX and MIN. This is MID-mark.
7. Adjust to MID-mark CI and road test.


ROAD TESTIn manual "3" it must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).
CARB AND THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR MODELS: Seem to work best with setting
between MIN and MID.
PORT INJECTION MODELS (Standard): Start with a setting just under MID.
HIGH OUTPUT Port injection models: Start with setting just a hair over MID
Adding TV to attempt to correct pinging, chugging or lugging won't work. It Just causes thumps, bumps and extra wear. Set the TV so that the shifts are smooth and not late.
FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive
BLOCK TYPE-TV CABLE ADJUSTMENT
IMPORTANT: The AOD transmission may feel like it is shifting at the right time when the TV cable is actually way off! The transmission will work for a while and then FAIL! It is critical that you learn to set the TV exactly like this paper says. Why?
So that you will "see" how it works, know that it's right and not be fiddling with it for an
hour, when and if you have some other problem.
1. Pull/push TV cable and block assembly out of throttle arm rubber grommet.
2. Have someone floorboard accelerator pedal from inside the car.
While the pedal is floored, push on the throttle body arm to make sure it's bottomed
(wide open) against its stop. (Adjust throttle cable, if necessary.)
3. Push the locking tab up through the adjustment block, with a pocket screwdriver, so that the locking tab is standing up next to clevis pin as shown in the picture.
4. While someone is holding' the throttle pedal floorboarded:
Pull the cable rail HARD towards the end of the cable with one hand, at the same time engage the clevis firmly into the throttle arm grommet.
Engaging the clevis automatically locks the tab by pushing it into the block.
5. Pull the block adjustment assembly out of the grommet:
Make a mark, on the rail, with a hacksaw blade or knife up against adjustment block.
This is the MAX TV mark.
6. Make another mark 5/16" from the max mark out on the rail. (Use a 5/16 pan bolt for a gauge.) This is MIN TV mark.
7. Make another mark midway between MAX mark and MIN mark. This mark is
average or MID-mark.
8. Unlock the adjustment tab. Set on MID-mark and lock tab. (Push it down into block.)
Install into throttle arm grommet and road test.


ROAD TESTIn manual "3", must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).
CARB AND THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR MODELS: Seems to work best with
setting between MIN and MID.
PORT INJECTIONI MODELS(Standard): Start with a setting just under MID.
HIGH OUTPUT Port injection models: Start with setting just a hair over MID.
FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive
ROD TYPE-TV ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop.
2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16")
3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF.
4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt.
5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns.
6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment.
7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality.
8. Replace the air cleaner.

 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
FordDawg, were you able to get this running again?
@slow84lx Well it still hasn’t ran yet but it’s because I am doing a lot of different repairs on several systems all at once and I work full time so I just work on it on my days off when I can. I am almost done with all my repairs and to be honest I probably would already be driving it if I didn’t have a few off days I just didn’t feel like doing anything and last weekend my family and I decided to go to Athens, GA to go see the Georgia Bulldogs spring football game. I’m hoping to have everything done in a couple days and I will update with what happens once I’m done ‘test’ driving lol.
 

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
825
492
123
NC
Well I finally got over to my shop (it's an hour and a half from my house) and can't find a bloody thing. Not sure if they are gone or if the fuel lines and throttle body are buried in the loft.
 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
I’ve been a bull dawg ever since I was a little kid and that’s on reason I want to get this car fixed up. It’s red with a black stripe on the hood, black louvered sail panels and a black spoiler. Eventually I’m going to re paint it and strategically place G logo emblems and turn it into the dawg stang.
 

slow84lx

Active Member
Jul 3, 2005
140
26
38
Dallas, TX
Same here. Many of my family members got edumacated in Athens. My niece is in her first year now and she loves it.

UGA's limo?
 

FordDawg88

Member
Apr 9, 2018
14
1
13
31
Buchanan, GA
So I’m almost done (just replacing broken wiring connectors with pigtails) and I just found out there is an ignition coil cover available for a 1986 mustang but not 1985. I know that since they started MP injection in 1986 the battery, starter solenoid, and ignition coil are on the driver side fender apron and shock tower instead of on the passenger side fender apron and shock tower like mine is. I also found an external voltage regulator bolted to the passenger side fender apron with no wires connected to it. My questions are does anyone know if the 1985 Mustang lx ever had an ignition coil cover or did they start that in 1986 and does anyone know why my car would have an external voltage regulator bolted to the fender apron with no wires connected to it? I want to do this restoration right so I’m trying to replace every possible thing that’s missing and reconnect everything that’s disconnected so it will look better than factory when I’m done. I’m almost positive my alternator is internally regulated which adds to the confusion of why there is an external regulator attached to the car.