Progress Thread 1989 LX 5.0 convertible - mild project

I looked closer and there is still a tag on the rear end. I'm having a heck of a time trying to read it, though.

tag.webp
tag1.webp
Remove the bolt and pull the tag off. Replace the bolt and then clean up the tag and post another pic. One of the members here can then help you decode it.
 
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Still digging around and finding all sorts of neat, and questionable, stuff.

I wondered why the ashtray wouldn't open, and found this bass control knob and a USB input cable blocking it.

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Apparently, there was an amp and/or sub in the trunk that is now gone.

I confirmed that there ARE rear speakers, but they're not exactly in the stock mounting points. I tried to remove a dash grill and door grill and, even with the screws out, they were being stubborn, so I stopped before I broke anything.
I can see non-stock satellite tweeters in the dash, non stock coaxial speakers in the doors, and the frame of the rear speakers looks to be the same reddish frame color.
The head unit is ...well, WAS ... a nice Kenwood Bluetooth/Garmin GPS unit with a backup camera. That's probably what the USB port is for. Unfortunately, it's in protect mode with a "DC offset" error. Probably because all of the stuff in the trunk area is now gone.
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At this point, I'm thinking I'll keep whatever speakers are in there and replace the head unit. I'll talk to the stereo shop about options. I really don't want a trunk full of amps and subs, though.

Oh, and I started to remove the shifter boot for a closer look, but there are some extra screw in there, audio wires ran down the tunnel, etc. I called it a night. I'm fairly certain it's not stock, though.
 
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Shifter looks stock, yes you should install the exhaust hanger back in place, vibration and gravity will allow the exhaust to sag between the joints,
I bet rear gear is stock, my vert had a 3.27 (?) gear with an auto trans,
 
That's pretty much what I did on the dash grills. I guess I didn't pull hard enough. I was scared I was gonna break something.
I didn't realize the door grills were part of the door panel itself. Since I now know that the speakers have been replaced, I'll probably just leave them alone. The head unit is only a few model years old, and wasn't cheap when it was new, so I'm just going to tell myself that the P.O. put in decent speakers too and roll with it!

I also found this connector on the tunnel, under the ashtray/console. What is this for?

ashtray connector.webp
 
Well, crap.
Even though I tested the quarter windows when I went to look at the car, BOTH of them refused to come back up this morning when I went to wash the car.
I guess it's better that it happened at home instead of out on a trip somewhere. Parts are already ordered, and I'll have peace of mind going forward.
 
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That's pretty much what I did on the dash grills. I guess I didn't pull hard enough. I was scared I was gonna break something.
I didn't realize the door grills were part of the door panel itself. Since I now know that the speakers have been replaced, I'll probably just leave them alone. The head unit is only a few model years old, and wasn't cheap when it was new, so I'm just going to tell myself that the P.O. put in decent speakers too and roll with it!

I also found this connector on the tunnel, under the ashtray/console. What is this for?

ashtray connector.webp

OK, it looks like this is the power window plug, which would explain why the mirrors don't work!
I never trust a P.O. It could have just been an oversight, or the switch could be bad. I have to remove the console to remove the switch. Is there a way to test the switch?
 
If you are talking about the PMS on the console, there are tabs on the sides, thin flat blade screwdriver, push under the lip towards the middle of the switch, there are two tabs opposite each other, don't pry up, push in, it will kinda pop out one side at a time,
I disassemble mine and cleaned with electronic spray cleaner, I may still have a extra on around here.........someplace.....
Oh, this is from memory, ah... May not be entirely accurate. :kmcoff:
 
I just pulled the console. I wanted to see what was going on under there with the stereo wires and get a little better access to the shifter boot anyway.
I plugged the switch in and it's giving me the common symptoms of a bad switch: only goes up and out.
I pulled the instructions for testing the plug from the forum and will do that before ordering a new switch. I'll try cleaning and retesting mine, too.
 
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Dumb newbie question: On a cold engine, how much coolant is in the upper radiator hose?
I'm not the biggest fan of the braided hose covering and would like to remove it. Am I gonna make a horrible mess if I unhook the hose?

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Basically yes that will make a big mess and antifreeze is toxic to humans and animals, humans (should) be smart enough not to taste it but animals seem to like it at least for a minute, I would drain the fluid from the radiator till the level in the radiator is below the hose level like about a gallon or so.
It's still gonna make a mess. Just smaller. By a lot.
 
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Well, I'm going to be changing all the fluids anyway (oil, brake fluid, etc.). The coolant looks new-ish. I was gonna have the shop test it and leave it alone if it was OK. Maybe I'll just have it changed and remove the covers at that time.
 
A little bit of 'old man' advice.
Over the years I ignored the 'use distilled water' to mix antifreeze/coolant, after 600k+ miles on the 'Dump Truck' with the original radiator only adding new coolant with 1 hose and three water pumps, the 'Junk Pile' got just whatever water/coolant mix was handy and after about 50k miles was junk, the inside of it looked like 'moon craters' with buildup.
The difference I feel was the distilled water mix.
JMO
AKA the ramblings of a grumpy old man. :kmcoff:
 
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