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1993 LX 5.0 dies after ignition parts replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Warhorse85
  • Start date Start date Aug 16, 2025
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rwordenjr

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#61
  • Aug 23, 2025
  • #61
Warhorse85 said:
I removed the smog pump a few years ago so there are some electrical connections that are disconnected. I'm assuming the constant 12v to ECU is all the time regardless if the key is on or off, correct? And whereabouts would I check for constant 12v at the ECM? Also to add, the ECM power relay does activate when key is turned on
Click to expand...
Did you adjust the timing on the car when you swapped out the tfi again ? Car not going to start if the timing not in right ball park.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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I am still going with the ECU has the bed but at this point I think you have entered the realm of the one and only..."Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs". If you have not already you need to work your way through this checklist and DO NOT skip around. Work through the list methodically.

Thread 'Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs'

May 22, 2006
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.


Revised 26-Jul-2017 to add fuse link diagram.

All text applies to...
  • jrichker
  • Replies: 93
  • Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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#63
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  • #63
After three bad brand new distributors with tfi,s I'm still going g with tfi or pip in the dist.
 
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rwordenjr

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#64
  • Aug 23, 2025
  • #64
nickyb said:
After three bad brand new distributors with tfi,s I'm still going g with tfi or pip in the dist.
Click to expand...
Yep. Tfi quality control is real problem.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#65
  • Aug 23, 2025
  • #65
AeroCoupe said:
I am still going with the ECU has the bed but at this point I think you have entered the realm of the one and only..."Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs". If you have not already you need to work your way through this checklist and DO NOT skip around. Work through the list methodically.

Thread 'Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs'

May 22, 2006
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.


Revised 26-Jul-2017 to add fuse link diagram.

All text applies to...
  • jrichker
  • Replies: 93
  • Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Click to expand...
At last a reasonable voice, I mean all the parts replacement is just a 'hope I get lucky' form of diagnosis.
This crap drives me crazy, it's not much different than the old school diagnostic just different tools.
The 'cranks but no start checklist' is the standard for our cars if you're not utilizing it then you're chasing a fart in a windstorm.
First, like the checklist says, try starting fluid, that will tell you spark or no spark, move on from there, do the next step, has worked for years.
 
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Warhorse85

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#66
  • Aug 23, 2025
  • #66
rwordenjr said:
Did you adjust the timing on the car when you swapped out the tfi again ? Car not going to start if the timing not in right ball park.
Click to expand...
Yes, I marked where the tfi was pointed
 
W

Warhorse85

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#67
  • Aug 24, 2025
  • #67
AeroCoupe said:
Okay here are the codes:

Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests

Code 11 - Test Passed.

Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)

This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/obd-1-code-15.903058/post-9111873.

Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure

Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:

Post in thread '1988 GT - Clearing codes'

Apr 26, 2007
Easy way to clear codes: connect the jumper wire up like you are going to dump the codes. Then turn the key to Run and when the test light or Check Engine Light starts to flash, disconnect the jumper. This clears the stored codes but does not erase the adaptive settings that the computer "learned".
  • jrichker
Click to expand...
Ok so I checked for voltage at pin 1 at the ECU and there is 12v with key on and off and 10v while cranking. I checked voltage and resistances at the TFI connector and wrote them down on a diagram which I will attach
 

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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#68
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  • #68
Have you worked through the cranks but does not start check list?
 
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Warhorse85

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#69
  • Aug 24, 2025
  • #69
AeroCoupe said:
Have you worked through the cranks but does not start check list?
Click to expand...
No not yet. I'm doing whatever testing I can between my kid napping and stuff
 
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Scottyding73

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#70
  • Aug 24, 2025
  • #70
AeroCoupe said:
Basic things that you need to provide in a thread like this.
Stick or Auto?
Mods
Any codes?
What were the name brand of the parts that you used to replace the existing parts and why did you replace them?

The check engine light (CEL) only illuminates for emissions related codes. There can be codes and no CEL so if you have not scanned for codes please do so.
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem on my 93 Gt 5 speed, found out that when it warmed up I got back fires surging and all that you described. I replaced all the things you did except the map and then replaced the distributor assembly and that was the problem. Internal electrical part cost about $20 to replace- I found out later- but the new distributor works great cost about $130
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#71
  • Aug 24, 2025
  • #71
The OP just needs to stop throwing parts at it and work through the list.
 
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Warhorse85

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  • Aug 25, 2025
  • #72
AeroCoupe said:
The OP just needs to stop throwing parts at it and work through the list.
Click to expand...
Ok so I believe it is the ECM. I checked resistance between the ignition ground circuit from the TFI plug to chassis ground and the ECM case and got 5k ohms of resistance. Then I went from TFI ignition ground to pin 16 on the ECM and got 0.5 ohms of resistance. Then I went from ignition ground pin 16 on the ECM to chassis ground and still got 5k ohms of resistance. I checked ECM ground to chassis ground and got 1 ohm of resistance.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#73
  • Aug 25, 2025
  • #73


We will all pray for the resurrection of your ECU.
 
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Warhorse85

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#74
  • Aug 25, 2025
  • #74
AeroCoupe said:


We will all pray for the resurrection of your ECU.
Click to expand...
So at this point I'm assuming there is something wrong with the ignition ground circuit within the ECU board. Also I believe that the ECU is a remanufactured ford ECU
 

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Mindseye007

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#75
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  • #75
Warhorse85 said:
So at this point I'm assuming there is something wrong with the ignition ground circuit within the ECU board. Also I believe that the ECU is a remanufactured ford ECU
Click to expand...
Open up the ECU and let's see the capacitors....
 

Noobz347

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Or stop pissing around and just send it in.

That thing looks like it's been passed around like a high school baby momma
 
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Warhorse85

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#77
  • Aug 25, 2025
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Noobz347 said:
Or stop pissing around and just send it in.

That thing looks like it's been passed around like a high school baby momma
Click to expand...
Whoever replaced it never put the mounting bracket back on it. It was just sitting in the lower A pillar pocket.
 

Noobz347

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#78
  • Aug 26, 2025
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Warhorse85 said:
Whoever replaced it never put the mounting bracket back on it. It was just sitting in the lower A pillar pocket.
Click to expand...

I made my own bracket for the footwell under the carpet.
I mean, you can see it's there; it's not hiding from anyone but... Racecar


 
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Warhorse85

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#79
  • Aug 26, 2025
  • #79
Noobz347 said:
I made my own bracket for the footwell under the carpet.
I mean, you can see it's there; it's not hiding from anyone but... Racecar


Click to expand...
My problem is that it is a reman ECM and the sticker on it says A9L which is for a V8 5 speed and my wifes car is a V8 Automatic which needs the A9P but unsure of the calibration
 
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Warhorse85

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  • Aug 26, 2025
  • #80
Mindseye007 said:
Open up the ECU and let's see the capacitors....
Click to expand...
So I circled the capacitors. The one circled in red has 37k ohms of resistance. The one circled in blue has 622 ohms of resistance. The one circled in yellow has 5.6k ohms of resistance. Now in the close up photo of the backside of the ECM, the object I have circled in red has 3.5k ohms of resistance
 

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