Ah good to know. I'll be doing the same. Going to start dying some trim next while the harmonic balancer is in transit. I think I'm going to do some touches of opal grey to offset the black a bit. That's the color code of the original interior. It's either do that or all black....I think some grey touches would look nice. Curious what lurks behind the door panels as well.
Progress Thread 1993 LX Hatch Progress
- Thread starter Mac131
- Start date
Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
General, I have been divorced for 30 Years, so I am not used be being abused anymore.......Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Thanks for the info! I was wondering about a header leak but it is only when it warms up...seems like the opposite unless the headers are warping when it warms up. I will most certainly look there first and change the gasket.Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Regarding dip stick level...mine is about 1/2" above "full".Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Small update....dying some trim pieces. I'll yank out the center console and do that tomorrow. After that, I'll be opening up the doors/door panels.
89ripper
Founding Member
Not sure what is up with this dip stick tube...seems to me that lip should be flush with the block?
Yeah, that's how they are. It's weird. I was wondering the same about mine until i pulled it out to install the headers. There are two lips on there.
The first one sits flush to the block. Then up about 1/2" or so there is a second lip that seems to serve no real purpose. Other than to make me think it wasn't in all the way in!
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Lol my OCD was kinda freaking out over it! Thanks for the sanity check.Yeah, that's how they are. It's weird. I was wondering the same about mine until i pulled it out to install the headers. There are two lips on there.
The first one sits flush to the block. Then up about 1/2" or so there is a second lip that seems to serve no real purpose. Other than to make me think it wasn't in all the way in!
Ok sweet, I'll watch it today. Any tips on insulating the suction line on the A/C? Mine was crumbling off so I replaced it with some rubber insulation from home depot...looks pretty dumb since it's 3x the thickness. Looks like a damn water noodle in there.
Funny you mention the “water noodle” look. I did the same thing when I first picked up my LX and after a few days of looking at that I decided no more and purchased a new replacement hose with new insulation and had it installed. Was well worth it for the appearance alone. Having OCD costs me a lot of money.
Lol, I have the same problem. I think this still has R12, so I don't want to open up the system. I know they make wrap that adhears to itself...I might try that instead.
I did the wet noodle thing, the wrap thing, wire loom thing, a whole bunch of “things” to try and “fix it”.
OCD was killing me so I decided to get the new hose then deal with having the AC serviced and took that opportunity to replace more parts that bothered me so at the end of the day to get clean insulation cost me an embarrassing amount of money. But heck, it looks pretty now and the AC works fine. This is a crazy hobby. Haha
OCD was killing me so I decided to get the new hose then deal with having the AC serviced and took that opportunity to replace more parts that bothered me so at the end of the day to get clean insulation cost me an embarrassing amount of money. But heck, it looks pretty now and the AC works fine. This is a crazy hobby. Haha
You are right there...the things we do and the money we spend for things to "look better".
Lol. You could try a product called simple strap. It's a stretchy rubber type strapping made for bundling objects together. I've found it works excellent as an abrasion layer. I have some on my AC line where it tucks behind the supercharger to protect it. It's handy for lots of things. I use it all the time.
If you take your time stretching and spacing each wrap evenly you can get a real nice look, similar to road bike handlebar wrapping. It looks good. It doesn't stick to anything. Just by friction it sticks to itself. So you'd need a zip tie or self fusing rubber tape at each end.
