General, I have been divorced for 30 Years, so I am not used be being abused anymore.......Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Thanks for the info! I was wondering about a header leak but it is only when it warms up...seems like the opposite unless the headers are warping when it warms up. I will most certainly look there first and change the gasket.Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
Regarding dip stick level...mine is about 1/2" above "full".Most times when the factory door panels get 'waves' in them because someone had the panel off and didn't install the water/dust shield to the door correctly or left it out completely.
Now note I said 'mostly' so don't you people jump on your key boards with 'I left mine off 20 years ago and mine are good' posts
and that dipstick issue, (not you @limp ) is yours stock with a Ford part number? It is yellow like stock. Aftermarket headers sometimes do not play well with stock dipstick tubes and installers just grab the tube and man handle it out of the way, that usually kinks the tube so it won't go all the way down into the boss. I used a hand tubing bender to fine tune mine.
And on the 'over full' thing, there is a TSB I believe, can't remember what it said exactly how to deal with it but the common method is to fill with 5 gts oil, new filter, run the engine for awhile, the check oil, mark the stick where the oil level is and your good. Mine is a 1/4 " above the full mark for example.
Exhaust droop, looks like there is 4 pieces between the headers and the mufflers, you may be able to loosen the 4 connections and using a floor jack, 2x4 to push the pipes higher and tighten the connections.
Oh and that 'ticking' noise may be a loose header or blown gasket so check that out before messing with adjusting the pipes.
Disclaimer: this is based on The Roadkill School of mechanics and not on any actual real mechanical training. Use at your own risk.
results may veryRegarding dip stick level...mine is about 1/2" above "full".
SEM, 3M. Just from what others have posted on hereDo any of you know what brand of seam sealer is any good?
youtuber, Chris Sullivans latest video is of doing an interior resto on a Ford LIghtning...... Lots of good info on it....Do any of you know what brand of seam sealer is any good?
Not sure what is up with this dip stick tube...seems to me that lip should be flush with the block?
Lol my OCD was kinda freaking out over it! Thanks for the sanity check.Yeah, that's how they are. It's weird. I was wondering the same about mine until i pulled it out to install the headers. There are two lips on there.
The first one sits flush to the block. Then up about 1/2" or so there is a second lip that seems to serve no real purpose. Other than to make me think it wasn't in all the way in!
Ok sweet, I'll watch it today. Any tips on insulating the suction line on the A/C? Mine was crumbling off so I replaced it with some rubber insulation from home depot...looks pretty dumb since it's 3x the thickness. Looks like a damn water noodle in there.youtuber, Chris Sullivans latest video is of doing an interior resto on a Ford LIghtning...... Lots of good info on it....
Lol, I have the same problem. I think this still has R12, so I don't want to open up the system. I know they make wrap that adhears to itself...I might try that instead.Funny you mention the “water noodle” look. I did the same thing when I first picked up my LX and after a few days of looking at that I decided no more and purchased a new replacement hose with new insulation and had it installed. Was well worth it for the appearance alone. Having OCD costs me a lot of money.
You are right there...the things we do and the money we spend for things to "look better".I did the wet noodle thing, the wrap thing, wire loom thing, a whole bunch of “things” to try and “fix it”.
OCD was killing me so I decided to get the new hose then deal with having the AC serviced and took that opportunity to replace more parts that bothered me so at the end of the day to get clean insulation cost me an embarrassing amount of money. But heck, it looks pretty now and the AC works fine. This is a crazy hobby. Haha
Any tips on insulating the suction line on the A/C? Mine was crumbling off so I replaced it with some rubber insulation from home depot...looks pretty dumb since it's 3x the thickness. Looks like a damn water noodle in there.
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