2Blue2's 1977 Cobra2 Driveway Build

To help with answers to the compression test, here is a portion of an article copied/pasted from http://www.mhnetwork.com/news/properly-diagnose-your-customer-s-engine-problems/
  • Readings from the wet test should not increase by more than 10 percent, cylinder to cylinder.
  • If the compression increases with the wet test, the results identify the problem as the piston rings and/or cylinder walls. The theory behind this test is that the oil is providing a wet seal for the rings. If they are not sealing on their own they will when the oil creates a seal and an increase in compression will be observed.
  • If the compression stays the same, the results point to the valve train. The theory is that when the rings are sealing, the oil will have no effect on compression and therefore the valves are most likely the cause of the problem.
Now I'll bet the engine probably still runs, but not optimally I'm sure. Again, I'm sure you're not surprised, but it most likely needs a thorough going over.

Now being in Hawaii I'm not sure what your available options are, but a good upgrade would be a 5.0 from an Explorer if you can get your hands on one. But be aware that they are most likely a different balance than the old 302 in the II. I don't know for fact that this is the case, but it stands to reason that they're a 50oz vs a 28oz engine, so in any case you'll need to take some stuff to a machine shop. If it were me, I'd try for the Explorer engine and rebalance the flex plate/flywheel and go from there. Also, if you're not aware, the later Explorers use a GT40P head which has a different spark plug angle than any other small Ford, so you have to watch out for that as well. Easy identification between the P heads and the earlier GT40 style heads used on earlier 5.0 Explorers is that the "P" heads have 4 bars cast into the end of the head whereas the earlier GT40 style heads have 3 bars cast. If you need more info on what to look for go to the Fox forums and do a search on Explorer head and engine swaps. It used to be (and probably still is?) a pretty popular option. While you may run into some of the same problems with an Explorer engine, almost everything in them is an upgrade over the old 70s iron....
 
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a good upgrade would be a 5.0 from an Explorer

I love the idea of going roller block but part of me wonders if keeping number matching block is worth while.

I spent most my budget on that deck lid and a new front window which is on order (6 to 8 weeks 450$ installed).

I have some sb engines in the garage that have been sitting for 10 yrs. Cheapest route is gasket and spray paint one and slap it in.
 
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I'm thinking this one, Looks like 'E6SE' on manifold. 1986 Thunderbird ? I bought a pallet with two engines, k member and a T5 on it. The kid selling it had just wrecked his fox but his engine was still in it. This is what he was going to build so its an unknown to me. I thought he said it was a van engine at the time. Cant find casting#on starter side.

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I love the idea of going roller block but part of me wonders if keeping number matching block is worth while.

I spent most my budget on that deck lid and a new front window which is on order (6 to 8 weeks 450$ installed).

I have some sb engines in the garage that have been sitting for 10 yrs. Cheapest route is gasket and spray paint one and slap it in.

where'd you get the windshield at? any guesses on where to get the other windows?
 
where'd you get the windshield at? any guesses on where to get the other windows?


i ordered the windshield through a local glass shop here. Desert Valley Auto parts in AZ well probably have the other glass,
But there should be a junk yard that has em in cal too.
 
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you'll need to take some stuff to a machine shop.

Your talking about the non existent 141 tooth 50 oz imbalance flex plate of mustang 2 legend.
That with the correct width 4 bolt balancer and the rest will be bolt in right?
 
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I put a high output 5.0l in my mustang II with a C4 trans. I had bought a Art Carr 50oz imbalance flexplate and it all worked out fine. I wrecked the ring gear, so I was going to order a new flexplate, but Art Carr is out of business. Does anybody else make one?


I'm going to say if he used a later model 302, he would have had to have used a later model bellhousing. If not, then if he used the II flexplate I would hope they had it rebalanced to the later model's 50 oz imbalance instead of the II's 28 oz. My advice is to verify what engine and bell you have and act accordingly. You may have to have the 141 tooth plate rebalanced to the later model engine? Also, be sure to check engagement depth of the starter and compare it to your flexplate depth from the bell. IIRC, all Ford starters have the same tooth count, but their depths <i>may</i> be different. It seems I seen a chart somewhere with starter part numbers and what differences there were, but don't recall where it may be or what differences all of them have. A quick search on Google netted this information: http://www.bcbroncos.com/ford starters.pdf Hopefully that can get you started (no pun intended) in the right direction! :)

Hey LilCobra
Found your message from a couple of yrs ago, this site is awesome with all its stored info.
 
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That's the title of the song that was the inspiration for my license plate!! lol


View: https://youtu.be/oc6FmZCT0Zc


And yes, that is exactly what I'm talking about! If you were to use an Explorer engine, the only thing you'd really need to have done is rebalance the reciprocating assembly to match whatever you were to use for a flywheel/flex plate or vice-versa. So, if you were to use the original II bell housing, the flywheel/flex plate would need to be rebalanced to match the balancer and crank. If you chose to use everything from the Explorer, you'd need to use the larger bell housing which presents it's own problems with installation, mainly on the exhaust side of it all. Other than that, it's a pretty easy swap from what I can recall of it. Just install a carbureted intake and swap the distributor with one that would work for what you're using (could be factory, could be aftermarket?) and you're golden. As far as the engines you already have, the same principal applies as long as they're good engines. The manifold in that picture looks like the lower manifold of the 5.0 HO. If it's stock and truly from an 86 T-bird or Mustang, it's most likely a 50oz imbalance engine, therefore you'll need to go through the above process with it as well. If you chose to go with the T5 and all the associated goodies as well, then the engine balance probably won't be a factor given you use the same flywheel and bell that come with it all. Then all you're looking at is essentially a T5 swap which has been documented in various posting and sites on the internets. Again, your exhaust is where you'll run into a slight snag - not impossible, but not a "just bolt on some headers and go" type swap. Speaking from experience though, it's definitely worth it as long as it's all good stuff. :)
 
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Here you can find some info about my build. I'm using a 2000 explorer engine (but with T5). Lilcbra has written everything important. One more thing about the GT40P heads (its very diffciult to get the GT40 heads): the spark plug is diffrent. I test fitted different headers/shortys, but they either don't fit the car or the spark plugs. At the moment i'm thinking of putting in my old 289 exhaust manifolds (they should be very similar as the MII exhaust manifolds). Performance wise they aren't realy good, but they fit with a little bit of grinding and i'm getting the car running...
Here is a thread about were the 289 manifolds need to be grinded.
 
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Best way to learn to paint is to just do it!
Was a little windy.
Spoiler is looking good though. Son did alright,
always proud of that boy. He's big for 15.


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Back yard fun
 
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Ahhh...shorts and t-shirt weather...I can't wait.

Sending good weather thoughts your way.

Was all happy and started cooking salmon on bbq for dinner and then it rained from a blue sky.

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Was mad so i took picture of the sky
only lasted 10 seconds. Notice the ground is still dry
Going to have to scuff and shoot it again now,
oh well into each life a little rain must fall.

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Was all happy and started cooking salmon on bbq for dinner and then it rained from a blue sky.

Was mad so i took picture of the sky
only lasted 10 seconds. Notice the ground is still dry
Going to have to scuff and shoot it again now,
oh well into each life a little rain must fall.

Are you sure it was rain or was it a neighbor playing a bad prank with a hose? lol
Looked good until the water hit, good job to the boy!! :)
 
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Got after it with the 400 grit. You can see the texture the rain left that I'm sanding off. Alligatorskin.
Still a ways to go.

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Hard not to burn thru the corners
A couple more nooks and crannies and it will be done,

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Then it got painted again.
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But painting outside has drawbacks. A bug flew over, fainted, and crashed, and burned.
I think he made the crater!?!
It'll still be good enough for back yard style.


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Bug is my copilot.
 
That's some modern art you got going there. The human eye at the top 1/4 in the middle is freaking me out though. :)

I've never painted anything that didn't accumulate a stink-bug or a moth. But a dive-bomber - that's a new one.

I like to keep in mind that on a II, some flawed paint is more factory than anything.
 
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Was curious if real Cobra II or not, I thought CB on tag would be correct.
I guess "KC" on buck tag means yes? How else can you tell?
With build date of Dec76 it aint no King Cobra.

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Sorry for crummy image, Hard to take this shot.
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