339rwhp After Tune On Meth, Does This Sound Right?

[Clayton302]

Yeah I think about the only SIMPLE way to run Meth/Water would be to set the FT tune up for the meth/water, hence the window switch for the meth/water. Just make sure meth/water is working under full throttle. I do like the idea of pulling more timing out when temps get high but this is all common practice in tuning anyways. My ICT sensor is in my manifold so it would adjust/add timing by simply adding the kit with no tuning. To get more Power out of the kit the tune could be adjusted a bit.

That's what the safety/window switch is for. Fuel and spark tables are setup for meth. So air charge temp is measure post power adder. When the safety switch if made indicating that meth is being sprayed, then timing is run full commanded/tuned advance. When not made, timing is reduced at the ignition box.

So are you running an aftermarket ignition box? With proper tuning someone could avoid this setup, it reminds me of the old boost retard adjustment knob for the old supercharger kits

 

[Noobz347]

So are you running an aftermarket ignition box? With proper tuning someone could avoid this setup, it reminds me of the old boost retard adjustment knob for the old supercharger kits

I do run an aftermarket ignition. I didn't used to though... I used to run everything through a Anderson PMS. That method was simpler is some ways because it accepted input from the safety switch directly.

You know how it is... see something shiny.

 

[Modular2v]

I wouldn't necessarily say anything is wrong yet. If the methanol isn't plumbed up the way it should be, and the tuner isn't tuning it the way it should be, then it would be about the equivalent of a non-intercooled setup, which is certainly not much more than 340 rwhp on an auto car. I still want to hear the answers to my questions about the timing, AFR, and other meth stuff before I come to any conclusions. It's quite possible that the tuner simply doesn't know how to tune meth setups.

And depending on the situations surrounding each of your dynos, his numbers might not actually be off that much. His auto is around 6% less efficient than your manual, which bumps him up to about 360 rwhp. If he was on a Mustang Dyno (which reads 10ish% lower than an SAE Dynojet, IIRC), then his Dynojet numbers might be up around 400 rwhp. If he then corrected to STD instead of SAE (which is 4% higher), his numbers are then 417 rwhp. See how easily this stuff can change? Not trying to be condescending, but my car makes 60 less rwhp, weighs around 100 pounds more, and has less gear than your car, but I'm trapping 1-2 mph better than you are. Not trying to bash anyone here, just trying to make it understood that dyno numbers aren't everything.



If tuned properly, I'll bet his Vortech setup on 8 psi with methanol will run as good or better than your setup, regardless of any dyno says. Now, please, don't take that as a shot against you; I just know that properly setup meth setups run MUCH better at the track than a dyno often indicates they should. My car is a pretty good example of that. There's a TON of Thunderbird guys running setups like mine that are WELL into the 11s at 117+ mph on a 3900 pound car. Got a friend with a Whippled Cobra on methanol; can't remember the dyno numbers, but he was trapping 140+ at full weight on the stock IRS and stock motor.

No offense taken good sir. I didnt see his car was an auto and u are 100% correct about dyno differences. Im in the process of putting my mmr 4.75 together and the car will be going back together with meth so ill be messaging here shortly for advice.

 

[Clayton302]

You know how it is... see something shiny.

I sure do!!