Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
I'm happy with the result:
IMG_20210131_120550.jpg
 
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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
Mod Dude
Mar 5, 2019
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Oahu
Look at that wheel, shinning like a jewel. Right ON!
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
My 66 coupe is sold. Buyer is as old as the car and was very convinced buying it. He did a bigger prepayment and will pick up the car in the next two weeks depending on the weather. I have mixed feelings... but I'm not surprised that I have mixed feelings. Lets see what there will be next.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
Car is paid and gone. The new owner was driving a Porsche Macan with a car trailer behind to pick up the car. Now he can drive a real car and get rid of the :poo:ty Porsche. :jester:
I want to get the M2 done before I start to mess with another car. I also want to go trough my collection of parts/junk that is laying around in multiple places... get rid of stuff that I don't need and keep the good things.
What I surly will keep is the original 289 engine (even if it is 0.04 over; there is a guy in Germany who is doing cylinder resleeving for a good price), the spare T5 tranny I have and the 8 inch rear axle from a maverick. I also have engine frame mounts and 67 spindles with drums. So essentially everything to do a whole driveline swap from I6 to V8.
I didn't much on the Mustang II in the last time and I won't the next two weeks. But than I need to get the thing finished.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
Still nothing happened, except I ordered some random car carpet for the trunk.
I have another topic: my rear side windows are leaking (tested with water hose), But its not at the window gasket, it is leaking between the chrome molding and the body.
The chrome molding starts at the bottom of side window at the b pillar and runs around the side window and above the door till it ends where the a pillar meets the front fender. I checked it and there is no silicone/sealing compound... no my question should there be sealing compound?
And if yes, can I seal it without removing everything? If I would do that I would use a body sealer that is similar to RTV silicone regarding the viscosity/processing. It comes in a "bottle" with a "nozzle" like this, which would help to get the sealant where it should be:
9235689177118.jpg


sorry I have no new photo, there is an old one:
p5hgfojg-jpg.jpg
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
15 Year Member
Dec 6, 2005
3,190
2,354
174
49
Marietta, Ga
I had that piece of trim off of my car years ago when I went through it, I don't remember any sealant though. It seems like the weather stripping bumped up against the pillar and that piece was purely decorative, but it's been a long time now I may be wrong. But as much as I hate to tell you this, I think you might be better served removing the rear window and checking them, maybe adding sealant to that weather stripping to stop your leak.
 

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
I had the rear windows removed and added additional sealant to the weather stripping. I made a sketch, which should show the problem better. The wheater stripping is definitely pushing/sealing against the chrome molding partly and if the moulding is not water thight it can run behind the molding... I'm just wondering why there is no sealant. The car was re-painted in the 80ties (in germany) and they removed the rear window for sure. I'm just wondering if the missed to use the sealant or if the chrome molding is a different as original or whatever...
problem.jpg
 
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7991LXnSHO

10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
4,991
1,491
184
Kearney, NE
I do not know how I missed this nice build. I am as impressed by your English as the build. Siri and Alexa can make me spell worse and be far less intelligible that you are here, and I learned American English as a first language.

As far as Porsche’s go, if you cannot stand to have a 911/930 around, I have an uncle that can take it off your hands and get it into mine through the Gray market. He brought by an almost new one by cir. 1983 and the test ride is still memorable. My cheek print might still be on the passenger side window.

Car is paid and gone. The new owner was driving a Porsche Macan with a car trailer behind to pick up the car. Now he can drive a real car and get rid of the :poo:ty Porsche. :jester:
I want to get the M2 done before I start to mess with another car. I also want to go trough my collection of parts/junk that is laying around in multiple places... get rid of stuff that I don't need and keep the good things.
What I surly will keep is the original 289 engine (even if it is 0.04 over; there is a guy in Germany who is doing cylinder resleeving for a good price), the spare T5 tranny I have and the 8 inch rear axle from a maverick. I also have engine frame mounts and 67 spindles with drums. So essentially everything to do a whole driveline swap from I6 to V8.
I didn't much on the Mustang II in the last time and I won't the next two weeks. But than I need to get the thing finished.
 
Last edited:
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
It seems sometimes you just need to write that you are not motivated and motivation comes than back :)
I cut the trunk carpets:
IMG_20210422_185142.jpg

I will pick up tomorrow some foam plate to make a insert for the spare wheel tub, that will hold the first aid kit and the warning triangle you need to carry with you in Germany. I also will make a small wooden plate that fits underneath the carpet. Perhaps I will glue it onto the backside of the carpet to get a even trunk floor.
I also made some lowering blocks around 30mm for the rear end from aluminum pieces (okay the where cut to spec; I drilled just the holes and made the thread for the centering pin/screw head):
IMG_20210422_185407.jpg
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
And I quickly unbolted the hood scoop and made it black with a spray can (weather was alright) and installed it after 1h again on the car:
IMG_20210422_185215.jpg

IMG_20210422_185230.jpg


The scoop looks much better in black! Also the black wheels look great in this combination!
But I think I need to think about a black grill too. And perhaps I should paint the head lamp surroundings also black... But that is a story for when the car is running and registered.
Installing the lowering blocks is the biggest task that I need to finish first... Beside other stuff.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
I wish I could get away with that low of a hood scoop.... :(
I hope I can get away with it, too...
Other than stated in the description it is not an exact copy of the fox hood. Width will be okay, but height is also very tight. Wing nut on the air cleaner touches the scoop, hex nut is okay. Let's see when the engine is moving around. :doh:
If I could start over again, I would try to get an original scoop from a fox, like @LILCBRA did. But to be honest I thought I would get an GFRP copy of the fox scoop...
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
463
525
103
Germany
I had the rear windows removed and added additional sealant to the weather stripping. I made a sketch, which should show the problem better. The wheater stripping is definitely pushing/sealing against the chrome molding partly and if the moulding is not water thight it can run behind the molding... I'm just wondering why there is no sealant. The car was re-painted in the 80ties (in germany) and they removed the rear window for sure. I'm just wondering if the missed to use the sealant or if the chrome molding is a different as original or whatever...
problem.jpg
I testes the sealing of the rear side window with a small injection full of water.
@LILCBRA you where right: the sealing between side window and chrome molding is also bad.
But it is also running between the body and the chrome molding. They definitely didn't seal it up...

So this will be a bigger thing to get worked out. But it is on the todo list AFTER I have the car registered. Even if it sees some rain/water, the sheet metal inside is sealed with some fat-based stuff... and I can remove the plastic cover in the door frame for better ventilation to get it dry. :shrug:

Yesterday I installed PU bushings on the shackels and installed also the lowering blocks. I still need to tighten everything up and put the car back on the ground.
 
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