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86/87 Help needed asap...

  • Thread starter Thread starter zfink
  • Start date Start date Mar 1, 2010
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,210
17,894
224
Massachusetts
Mar 7, 2010
#21
  • Mar 7, 2010
  • #21
zfink said:
Do you just copy and paste the image code from photobucket to get a pic on here? Thanks, tore the topof the block off yesterday. Time for a new motor. Suggestions?
Click to expand...


Basically set it up like this


 
Z

zfink

New Member
Mar 1, 2010
18
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Radford/Culpeper. VA
Mar 7, 2010
#22
  • Mar 7, 2010
  • #22
So... Came home from college and started tearing my block apart... UGH!!! HOOOORRRRIIIBBBLLLEEEEEE!!!!! But not that bad. Biggest problem I had was trying to get the fuel line "quick snap" crap off. Took the intake manifold off and opened her up and found this... Probably should have followed the warning signs of the gunk in top of the heads. I'm just going to throw a bunch of pictures You can see the progress. Took the heads off the gasket was good and there weren't any "cleaned spots on the bottom of the head. Figured it was a cracked block, pulled the entire motor in a day. Never having done anything like this before I thought I dun purty good for a 1.5 day project. On the look out for a new block so I can strap it all back together and ride on. Over all wasn't that bad. If anyone can explain how this much sludge gets in a motor let me know. Lots of not being taken care of I suppose. On to the pics. See if I can do it right...


P.S. Didn't see a casting number on the heads, are they under the gasket? Might have to clean the gunk off haha...




Photobucket is messing up. I can't load pics of the sludge right now I'll have to do it later...

SUCCESS!!!! Feels soooo good! Tastes so sweet! haha Thanks for everyones help again.
 

capri debris

Member
May 5, 2007
289
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PA
Mar 7, 2010
#23
  • Mar 7, 2010
  • #23
Plain and simple:

The '89 heads WILL bolt to the '86 block with no problems, but...
If the '86 block has flat top pistons (no reliefs) then there is a chance of P/V clearance issues.
Some have put 'E7 heads on a stock, flat top, shortblock and not had problems... while other have.

It's a crap shoot, but I say put them on and check P/V clearance and if nothing hits, run it.

BTW, the compression ratio will RISE, because the E7 heads have a smaller combustion chamber than the E6's.
 
Z

zfink

New Member
Mar 1, 2010
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Radford/Culpeper. VA
Mar 9, 2010
#24
  • Mar 9, 2010
  • #24
Got some more pics now... beware...












Found a good deal on a motor in an 86 van. 30,000 some miles. Going to pull it drop it in when I come back home again. Not bad for an amature huh? Soo... much... grossness.... Looks like somebody took a dump in the motor.
 

fivespeedsteed

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 17, 2003
748
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69
Richmond, VA
Apr 1, 2010
#25
  • Apr 1, 2010
  • #25
im the friend that referred him here. thansk guys for offering assistance. i just made a thread for him too. he got an 86 block to rebuild. see from the pics above the pistons are fly cut. very interesting. i think he decided to use stock heads and go with a cam.
 

foxforce33

New Member
Mar 25, 2010
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0
Orange County, CA
Apr 2, 2010
#26
  • Apr 2, 2010
  • #26
347HO said:
I'm pretty sure but not positive your 86' is "speed density" and the 87' is MAF.
If you can find a good, stock 87' HO camshaft and the MAF upgrade stuff, that take advantage of the slightly better heads everyone is talking about.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify:
All '87s and '88s were speed density also (save the CARB (CA) certified '88s, which were the first to run MAF)

The E7 heads were based on the truck castings, but were not identical. They do flow slightly better than the truck castings they were based on (more on the exhaust side if I'm not mistaken). The '86s were the only year to use the "shrouded" heads and were the most restrictive castings used in the later H.O. 5.0. But some say they did respond well off the line due to the increase in velocity from the smaller, shrouded chambers.

Also, I'm not sure where it was stated above, but all '86s were port fuel injected. The 5sp '85s were the last of the carbuerated Mustangs. The '85 AOD cars used the inferior central fuel injection (throttle body injection).
 
L

Lawbreaker5.0

Member
Feb 20, 2009
543
2
18
Texas
Apr 2, 2010
#27
  • Apr 2, 2010
  • #27
The block for my 4 cyl to 5.0 swap looked exactly like that. There wasn't even a ridge on the cylinders, but a crap load of GUNK and I rebuilt it. (Haven't put the block in yet) A good cleaning and i bet that block can be rebuilt.
 
Z

zfink

New Member
Mar 1, 2010
18
0
0
Radford/Culpeper. VA
Apr 3, 2010
#28
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #28
Finally got my dad, back home, to check out the heads that came on my motor they are E5's...?

Is this bad? Are these worth spending money to have them ported and valved? Or should I just go buy a set of cheap E7's?

 
F

FoxChasis

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2003
589
276
93
Apr 11, 2010
#29
  • Apr 11, 2010
  • #29
"E7" is short for E7TE. The E7TE head was originally engineered for an '87 F-series 5.0L truck, that's why it has a "T" in the engineering number. (T = Truck) They were also on all '87+ 5.0L engines that happened to be "H.O." (all Mustang, some Continental, all Mark VII, some Town Car, some T'bird, some Cougar). Any '87+ passenger car that had a "S.O." 5.0L engine instead of H.O. continued using the E6SE head.

The E6SE head was not ever used on the truck engine. That was a passenger car head only. ALL passenger cars in '86 used that head. The '86 truck 5.0L used heads from the '85 truck 5.0L (E5TE). Mustangs/Capris in '85 did not use the '85 truck head. The '85 Mustang/Capri 4V engine used an E5AE head. The '85 Mustang/Capri CFI engine used the same heads from the '78-'84 5.0L engine (D8OE).

H.O. roller cam is the same from '85 through very late '88.
 
L

Lawbreaker5.0

Member
Feb 20, 2009
543
2
18
Texas
Apr 11, 2010
#30
  • Apr 11, 2010
  • #30
i would get some E7's. You can find them cheap, I mean dirt cheap. I have two sets that i won't even try to sell, cuz they'd only get me about 10 bucks a pop. I see people advertise them for 50 bucks and weeks and weeks go by. So yeah, don't pay more than 20 bucks unless they've recently had a valve job, port and polished, etc....
 
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