'88 GT Convertible - Croatia, Europe

Guys, first 180 miles report:
- 0 miles, two heat cycles (testing for leaks and had coolant leak), changed oil and filter
- for the first 40 miles I had ignition for start default 302 - 10, and kept rpm under 2500, easy on throttle but streaching a bit...
- for second 40 miles I had few acceleration up to 1/2 throttle, and one acceleration where rpm went to 3000 (was not intentional, AOD) and I heard noise (my ass froze...), tried in neutral at home and I got "rod-knock-like" noise with door open when I keep rpm on 2800...chit...$#%$#&#... I froze... oh noooo

Maybe I am just paranoid due to past experience and there is something loose in engine bay...

BUT for first 80 miles I also got some hickup/buckle with "feather" throttle or very, very light acceleration.
Therefore I changed ignition coil, cables, cleaned spark plugs (all looking perfectly like in books on all 8 cylinders). I also raised ignition to 12.

Checked exhaust manifold bolts, tigthened. Check few accessable lower intake bolts, seems good.

Report continues:
- for next 100 miles engine runs better and better with every mile, but there is still a noise present around 2000rpm if You raise and keep rpm for second standing in neutral

I just truly hope if this would be a rod knock I would have more severe problems in 200 miles than noise.
Oil looks okay on dipstick, coolant level is stable.
Mechanical gauge shows cold idle oil pressure 50 psi in first milisecond of start, hot idle oil pressure 20 psi.
Cooling is okay, dash gauge newer went to middle, allthru engine bay is like furnace after few dozen miles of drive.

I plan to lift upper intake, check all lower intake manifold bolts and maybe redo lifter bolts (OEM lifers).

Is there a possbility that I am experiencing detonation (from heads and block shaving and combustion chamber descrease) and therefore I have to advance ignition a bit more?
 

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Make sure your alternator bracket bolts are tight. There's the one big one that's kind of hidden up on the corner of the bracket. I've seen that bracket cause noise bad enough that the guy sold the car. He thought the engine was knocking. Guy that brought it to me got a sweet deal.

Smog pumps also have been known to knock.

Try revving with belt off and see if noise is still there. You probably did that already- just trying my best to help.
 
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Ohhh nooooo... not again...
On friday I drove some ~40 miles (about 300miles since first start after rebuild). I saw an idiot dash oil pressure gauge on second line when on idle, so went under car to check for mechanical one I left on car and..... needle is literally vibrating/jumping between 0-10psi. I was shocked, my heart stoped.
Engine works okay, but yes there are signs of noise since rebuild at 2000-3000rpm. Unfortunately it does sound like very light, supressed bottom end noise.

I did not touch car since then as my enthusiasm is below 0 since I saw that, but today I am keen to start it and place my both eyes on that mechanical oil gauge till the engine reaches operating temperature.

Only thing left old at bottom is block and crank in that engine. I measured everything 77 times. Was really careful.
I plastigaged crankshaft all main and rod bearings and journals and it was like between 0,0015 and 0,002 inches clearance before closing the oil pan. I also set pickup to pan to about 3/8" and checked several times (with playdoh and gasket in place of course).
First 5W30 oil was bleed out after 2 heat cycles. No particles inside.
Second 5W30 oil and new Motorcraft filter has 300 miles.
I don't know what to think... oil pickup problem? new melling oil pump fail? oil plug thrown out somewhere?
Worst of all to think now - is it possible that goddamn crank is oval?
Damn karma. Where to start, what to check before pulling it out again? :-(
 
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He said he would be watching the direct oil pressure gauge
Hopefully Snovac, you just got a NFG oil pump or the pressure relief valve is stuck spring broken etc.
I am sure you inspected the oil pump pickup tube and it is not full of silicone?
 
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@General karthief I did unfortunately, mechanical one is fixed in engine bay for runnin in, and was dancing between 0 and 10 at hot idle :-(

@manicmechanic007 oil pump is "new" and had maybe few miles as a part of unsuccessful "hillbily rebuild" (bearing change) last year... On assembly pump was building 50psi in second with battery drill. I think it still will on startup. I will test this.
Pickup tube is also new and part of mentioned rebuild. Allthru there was a pickup to bridge bracket problem which I fixed with clamp, tube itself is clear.

Dunno what to think...everything else is changed in this block.... so preparing myself for worst: anybody has a good spare stock crank for sale? :-(
 
Sucking air?
Not real sure how to know exactly
By the time the oil makes it thru the mains and rods and up to the lifters and pushrods it will most likely not be foamy anymore if it once was
Worth checking what and how much oil is coming out of the pushrods either way
The only way to know is no oil pressure
Pull the distributor back out and inspect the drive
Retest the pressure with a drill
Ford never used a gasket against the block because high pressure can blow the gasket out resulting in no oil pressure
Doubt that happened to yours as I have ran gaskets there for years before knowing this
Been buying Rouish works pumps ( or better) (PSE) with big pressure / high volume for years as well
I have had no trouble using a gasket yet ( for racing 302 Chevs had the pickup brazed to the pump)
 
Hmmm...mechanical gauge mystery results:
1. Drill on pump shaft, cold engine 500o/min =55psi immediately
2. Drill on pump shaft, cold engine 2000o/min =65psi
3. Cold start 850-900rpm (dash) = 55psi immediately
4. Termostat kick in = 40psi needle shivers
Up to now by books!!!
5. Few minutes later = shivers around 5-10psi
***Some noise around 2500rpm, may be a valve train***
6. I will drive now a bit....

Injector #1 is pretty loud, buzzing 3x louder than rest... Maybe he's a source of noise at 2500.

I have 5w-30 and this seems to be a problem after oil warmup.
Shall I pour in 10w-40? I have some Elf blend standing in garage....
 
Okay, with 10w40 hot idle (~800rpm) dances between 15-20psi. Good enough for me.
At 2000rpm I get 40psi. Stock oil pressure gauge in driving above half way, at idle almost at 3rd and never touches 2nd white line even on hard stops.

So, either 0.002" bearing clearance asks for heavier oil or my bearings are being chewed away..time will show.
Drained 5w30 used for first 300 miles and oil is dark but clear, still need to open the filter. Few dark dots but no visible metal particles or glitters.

Ok what is between the oil pump and the gauge that would make the oil pressure fluctuate?
Stock extension -- T-fitting -- stock sender straight and gauge is pointed to driver (right above oil filter). I used teflon tape on setup.

Found it...very enlarged picture is exact setup. Second picture was first setup but I forgot about AC and steering pump (hahaha) so gauge is turned 180°
 

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Okay, with 10w40 hot idle (~800rpm) dances between 15-20psi. Good enough for me.
At 2000rpm I get 40psi. Stock oil pressure gauge in driving above half way, at idle almost at 3rd and never touches 2nd white line even on hard stops.

So, either 0.002" bearing clearance asks for heavier oil or my bearings are being chewed away..time will show.
Drained 5w30 used for first 300 miles and oil is dark but clear, still need to open the filter. Few dark dots but no visible metal particles or glitters.


Stock extension -- T-fitting -- stock sender straight and gauge is pointed to driver (right above oil filter). I used teflon tape on setup.

Found it...very enlarged picture is exact setup. Second picture was first setup but I forgot about AC and steering pump (hahaha) so gauge is turned 180°
It all sounds like classic loose rods or main bearings. I would Dissect the used filter, put a big magnet on the new filter, and keep an eye on oil pressure with an in cabin gauge.
 
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It all sounds like classic loose rods or main bearings. I would Dissect the used filter, put a big magnet on the new filter, and keep an eye on oil pressure with an in cabin gauge.
Soooooo, If I finally get lucky with this engine, I could "just" have a loose or "racing" bearing clearance.
Plastigage result was like 0.002 on all journals.

Therefore if I don't get hit in head by con rod (or piston) in next several hundred miles, in theory this 302 could live with it for long if I throw in high volume oil pump?