I'm more of a Stegosaurus man, myself. Makes the engine hold up to abuse better.
Progress Thread '88 Gt Project Blue Storm
- Thread starter Murkstang
- Start date
I'm more of a Stegosaurus man, myself. Makes the engine hold up to abuse better.
-
Sponsors (?)
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Also, since the stripes are horrible uneven, I added a little thing to the left one. Well, it's really just the left stripe, if they copied the right, it wouldn't be so bad.
It's my way of dealing with it until I get it painted.
Jeez,...Crude oil is just that,....crude. Why does every premium new car, and almost every racing team run synthetic oil?
Hmmmm.... Could it be???
The superior lubricating quality of the oil?
how about it's tolerance for high engine temps?
How about it's ability to do the job at a thinner viscosity than crude, with the direct benefit being reduced windage. Reduced windage means more power.
How about the fact that you have to buy either an additive, or "special" crude oil to get back the zinc that the Gov't mandated out of crude oil?
How about the fact that almost every engine rebuilder specifies that the engine be broken in on standard crude, and only after 500 miles can synthetic be added. Why do you spose they make that stipulation?........could it be that the syn oil is TOO slippery,and they are concerned that there wont be a good ring seal as a result, needing the less slippery crude to help things break-in.
Hello Mc Fly!!!! Wake up McFly! it's 2016. Stop being a cheap ass. Synthetic oil is vastly superior to the standard crap, which offers no benefit at all besides filling up all your available empty plastic antifreeze jugs because you have to change it every 3000 miles.
Not aimed at anyone in particular here,...just the ostriches.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
mike
I respect your crafstmanship and knowledge but I have to tell you, that is just silly talk IMO
After working professionally and personally on probably a few 100 motors, and running dino oil in personal cars over the last 40 years, I've never seen a regularly maintained and cared for engine fail beacuse it ran dyno oil vs synthetic.Key point- regularly maintained and cared for.
Non race engines fail because of poor maintenence, abuse/beglect, worn parts, improper installation/assembly, or defective parts
Plus, you forgot to mention if you have a higher mile car and switch from dino to synthetic oil, you most likely will get seepage from gaskets. Seen it many times on cars including mustangs rear main seals.
If the owners manual says synthetic then run synthetic otherwise change the oil at regular intervals, use a quality oil and you will be fine for most people.
Tell me those stripes are stickers please. Otherwise, what a knucklehead paint job!Also, since the stripes are horrible uneven, I added a little thing to the left one. Well, it's really just the left stripe, if they copied the right, it wouldn't be so bad.
It's my way of dealing with it until I get it painted.
Stickers can be removed with a heat gun as long as you are careful with the heat. If they are, and want to peel them off, let me know, I'll talk you through it.
If they are painted on, go slap the PO.
Amen to that, I've only been into a few engines, but the difference between a maintained one and one that hasn't is unbelievable. My father's always changed oil like clockwork at 3k, got into one of his after 100k miles, I swear it looked new.
On the other hand, got into one that the owners NEVER did maintenance, it was unbelievable how much crud was just under the valve covers. I couldn't believe the engine had kept running up to that point!
I'm a fan of synthetics myself, you're right about the rear main seal though. I still think it's worth it to change over.
I did not say that crude oil was'nt adequate, I said that synthetic oil was better.
If the only reason you can quote a "con" for not using synthetic oil is, it will find it's way out of an old crotchedy assed engine......Is that the best you got?
Rattle off your "pro list" and address the comparability of slude build up, heat tolerance, lubrication at higher engine temps (viscosity breakdown) and reduced windage and less strain on the oil pump as a by product of being able to use a thinner weight, and then I'll consider them even.
If the only con to using a syn oil was it was gonna leave a little seepage coming out of my rear main seal,.....I'd be wiping my oil pan . Or changing that seal.
Last edited:
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I think Mike we are saying the same thing but from different angles. Is synthetic oil superior to dino oil? In some ways yes. Does it have its applications where you would want to use it? Yes
However, does the average shmoe need to spend twice as much on oil for synthetic in his DD if he regularly maintains it? I've yet to see empirical proof from any independent study that shows an engine would not have failed or lasted longer with synthetic vs. dino oil when the car is otherwise maintained. Head on over to BITOG- they have beat this debate to death for 10+ years.
Like I said, follow what is in the owners manual.
However, does the average shmoe need to spend twice as much on oil for synthetic in his DD if he regularly maintains it? I've yet to see empirical proof from any independent study that shows an engine would not have failed or lasted longer with synthetic vs. dino oil when the car is otherwise maintained. Head on over to BITOG- they have beat this debate to death for 10+ years.
Like I said, follow what is in the owners manual.
I could tell you they're stickers, but I would be lying. Trust me, if they were stickers, I would have had them off asap.
If you look at the right side of the left stripe, on the spoiler, you'll see its chipped away. That was from me testing to see if I could chip them off. (they're painted directly on top of the blue, which is also painted directly on top of the stock paint. As far as I can tell anyways.)
My brothers hypothesis, is they started drinking, decided to add stripes, started on the right side, and by the time they were starting with the left, they were
faced. Anyways, I was thinking of trying to chip off the stripes, then buff the paint, but decided not to because I'm afraid some spots wouldn't chip off, or I'd end up chipping off the blue, and just making it worse.
With that in mind, any other ideas on how to remove them? (until I get it properly painted, which will likely be several years.)
The PO and his buddies.
I'm glad you added that last part, because my reply was simply a joke. I want this to be a funny, joking thread, where people can laugh. Now I don't mind discussions, hopefully this stays civil. Lol
Back to the point, I was planning on running a synthetic, but I'm not opposed to Dino oil if that's someone's preference. As long as they keep up on oil changes.
In my other two vehicles, '92 Explorer, and '99 Explorer both 4.0 OHV. I run Valvoline Max Life, synthetic blend. 5w-30.
That's actually why I asked that question in the first place, the 4.0 OHV has oiling issues in the heads, and it's highly recommended you only run 5w-30 oil with no additives. Some people do run different viscosities depending on climate, but that's the consensus. Now I know the 5.0 is better, but I have little knowledge of it. (learning a lot though)
Fun fact, I know someone with a Ford Focus, and they haven't changed the oil in 5 years. I think it's synthetic, and it's not driven too horribly much, but DAMN, I don't care if you run the finest oil money can buy, that's bad! Lol still runs fine though.
Whew, that is a lot to type on a phone. If they're's ani misstakes, i uhpolagise.
I run Dino crud in mine, but it never sees race duty and only goes to work on sunny days. No worries from it.
If I was to run a blower, turbo, high rpm stroker them sure I would run synthetic as it won't break down and give better protection, but for an engine that's almost as old as the dinosaurs lubing it I just don't see the need.
If I was to run a blower, turbo, high rpm stroker them sure I would run synthetic as it won't break down and give better protection, but for an engine that's almost as old as the dinosaurs lubing it I just don't see the need.
Aren't the manufacturers recommendations on oil viscosity based on things like the size of oil passages throughout the engine?
Have you tried to see what they painted it with?I could tell you they're stickers, but I would be lying. Trust me, if they were stickers, I would have had them off asap.
If you look at the right side of the left stripe, on the spoiler, you'll see its chipped away. That was from me testing to see if I could chip them off. (they're painted directly on top of the blue, which is also painted directly on top of the stock paint. As far as I can tell anyways.)
My brothers hypothesis, is they started drinking, decided to add stripes, started on the right side, and by the time they were starting with the left, they were ****faced.
Anyways, I was thinking of trying to chip off the stripes, then buff the paint, but decided not to because I'm afraid some spots wouldn't chip off, or I'd end up chipping off the blue, and just making it worse.
With that in mind, any other ideas on how to remove them? (until I get it properly painted, which will likely be several years.)
The PO and his buddies.
Take a little laquer thinner and a rag and test it to see if it wipes off. If it does, it's fairly easy to get rid of them. Albeit time intensive on a long Saturday.
Let me know what happens with that.
Wouldn't that also take off the blue too? I'm guessing both the blue and stripes are rattle canned. I shall try that though on an inconspicuous spot. Thanks. I will be sure to report back when I get around to it doing it.
Holy crap! Really?! They sprayed the whole car with a rattle can?!
That could be a problem then.
Try a small area on the blue down low too. Might as well know what you got.
