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Progress Thread '93 Kenne Bell Notch

  • Thread starter Thread starter James V
  • Start date Start date Apr 6, 2019
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Jul 10, 2019
#201
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #201
You can stick with your $8500 invested (which you won’t get all back when you sell) and I’ll assume you know what your problems are. Or you can spend $7500, plus what you’ll lose off the $8500 when you sell, and have a whole lot of question marks. (That dirty engine bay tells me that someone stopped caring quite a while ago). Chances are when all that washes, if you bought and sold, you’ll be deeper than the $8500 you are now.
I’d stick with what you know, and keep the progress going on yours!
 
Reactions: James V and Mustang5L5

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jul 10, 2019
#202
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #202
Thanks, @CarMichael Angelo I fixed it
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,925
10,572
203
polk county florida
Jul 10, 2019
#203
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #203
Yeah, the right wheel angle looks funny but it could be the photography
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
1,451
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NJ
Jul 10, 2019
#204
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #204
I've seen that car up on market place for a while and it just doesn't look like a car I'd spend 5k on. Lift off hood, old sn93 blower, "needs tune", terrible seats, repaint so I'd have to really look for any rust bubbling out anywhere. I would at the very least if your gonna spend the time to look at it check the vin and make sure it's not a 4 cylinder car. Check the torque boxes out really good, check behind the doors where the hinges are for rust, etc
 
Reactions: James V

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,925
10,572
203
polk county florida
Jul 10, 2019
#205
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #205
Check that car off your list and go back to what you got.
 
Reactions: James V and Boostedpimp

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 10, 2019
#206
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #206
Boostedpimp said:
I've seen that car up on market place for a while and it just doesn't look like a car I'd spend 5k on. Lift off hood, old sn93 blower, "needs tune", terrible seats, repaint so I'd have to really look for any rust bubbling out anywhere. I would at the very least if your gonna spend the time to look at it check the vin and make sure it's not a 4 cylinder car. Check the torque boxes out really good, check behind the doors where the hinges are for rust, etc
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity what would be the reason to make sure it wasnt a 4 cylinder? That's what mine is now, a 5.0 swap. I didnt know it's been posted for awhile. I'm going to pass on it and continue the progress on mine. Thanks for the advice guys.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
5,816
213
Jul 10, 2019
#207
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #207
True 5.0 bodies hold their value more than 4 cylinders....I really have no idea why if the swap was done correctly.

My car is a v8 swap car. When you get to modifications that deep it shouldn't really matter ( in my eyes ). The only downfall is that it can't be restored back to original and still hold value. A factory v8 fully restored fox will get top dolla....but 4 bangers are like the straight 6s of the 60s cars.
 
Reactions: James V

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,255
17,939
224
Massachusetts
Jul 10, 2019
#208
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #208
90sickfox said:
True 5.0 bodies hold their value more than 4 cylinders....I really have no idea why if the swap was done correctly.
Click to expand...

You pretty much nailed the reason.

If the swap is done right, then there is no difference technically.

But unfortunately the majority of hacked up swaps ruins it for the well done cars
 
Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
Reactions: Olivethefet, 90sickfox and James V

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
1,451
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Jul 11, 2019
#209
  • Jul 11, 2019
  • #209
James V said:
Out of curiosity what would be the reason to make sure it wasnt a 4 cylinder? That's what mine is now, a 5.0 swap. I didnt know it's been posted for awhile. I'm going to pass on it and continue the progress on mine. Thanks for the advice guys.
Click to expand...
My reference to 4 cylinder was in relation to value/price. I wouldn't pay v8 money on a swapped 4 cylinder car. Both cars equal the "E" vin would always be worth more and have much more demand over the "M" vin car.

Personally, If the four cylinder swap is done correctly it's a better car in my opinion. Four cylinder cars aren't going to have damaged torque boxes, cracked floor pans, stress cracks along the roof line and twisted body lines. Most times aren't ragged out covered in jeggs stickers etc. I sold four of my factory 5L cars and built my 4 cylinder coupe because of this and have no regrets.
 
Reactions: James V and Mstng93SSP
8

86&92foxbods

New Member
Jul 11, 2019
7
0
1
Van Buren Township
Jul 11, 2019
#210
  • Jul 11, 2019
  • #210
James V said:
A shot from the junkyard to find the bolt for my steering wheel.
Click to expand...
I wish, I'm in Michigan and you don't see anything like that anymore
 
G

ggradtech

Active Member
Jun 17, 2016
179
18
28
Jul 12, 2019
#211
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #211
Not sure if you did anything with the steering rack yet. I've had a few cars that had manual Flaming River racks in them when I bought them. The manual racks SUCK. Unless you are building a drag car, they are not street friendly. It sucks to man-handle them at low speeds, and you feel everything through the steering wheel. You can tell if a nickel was heads or tails when you run one over. Stick to power steering.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#212
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #212
ggradtech said:
Not sure if you did anything with the steering rack yet. I've had a few cars that had manual Flaming River racks in them when I bought them. The manual racks SUCK. Unless you are building a drag car, they are not street friendly. It sucks to man-handle them at low speeds, and you feel everything through the steering wheel. You can tell if a nickel was heads or tails when you run one over. Stick to power steering.
Click to expand...

I ended up just installing a new motorcraft pump. It's really smooth and pretty quiet, I'm still not really a fan of how much play the steering wheel has right now, but eventually I'll probably get a new rack and stick to PS. When my PS wasnt hooked up, I turned around in my driveway and realized how much of a pain it would be without it, that's what changed my mind lol.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#213
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #213


Saw this in a local town near me. Maybe someone has some info on what it is? The body looks like it's all one piece.
 
Reactions: Rdub6
G

ggradtech

Active Member
Jun 17, 2016
179
18
28
Jul 12, 2019
#214
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #214
If you have "play" in your steering, maybe just see if your rag joint is worn. Seems most folks get rid of that old OEM one and replace it with a more solid intermediate steering shaft piece like a Maximum Motorsoprts or even a Borgeson? one.
 
Reactions: James V

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
1,419
639
143
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#215
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #215
James V said:


Saw this in a local town near me. Maybe someone has some info on what it is? The body looks like it's all one piece.
Click to expand...
Is that in East Haven ? If so I drive by it quite often but don't know the history of it.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
3,954
2,936
153
Long Island, NY
Jul 12, 2019
#216
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #216
James V said:


Saw this in a local town near me. Maybe someone has some info on what it is? The body looks like it's all one piece.
Click to expand...

Red white and blue!! #6. Mustang!!
I like it!
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
1,419
639
143
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#217
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #217
Just looked at the car listed for sale.
Not sure what kind of air intake that is but I'd be skeptical.
Another 100hp still in it with a tune ?......really?... with E7 heads and a SN series s/c, I doubt it.
Years ago my first s/c set-up was a SN89, they are not high boost about 4-6psi maybe 7-10psi if
upgraded to a VR4 impeller.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#218
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #218
ggradtech said:
If you have "play" in your steering, maybe just see if your rag joint is worn. Seems most folks get rid of that old OEM one and replace it with a more solid intermediate steering shaft piece like a Maximum Motorsoprts or even a Borgeson? one.
Click to expand...

I'll have to check that out
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#219
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #219
Steel1 said:
Is that in East Haven ? If so I drive by it quite often but don't know the history of it.
Click to expand...

Yep, it's in East Haven. They actually have 2 of them. I might have to ask them what they were used for and where they came from.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Jul 12, 2019
#220
  • Jul 12, 2019
  • #220
Steel1 said:
Just looked at the car listed for sale.
Not sure what kind of air intake that is but I'd be skeptical.
Another 100hp still in it with a tune ?......really?... with E7 heads and a SN series s/c, I doubt it.
Years ago my first s/c set-up was a SN89, they are not high boost about 4-6psi maybe 7-10psi if
upgraded to a VR4 impeller.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I asked if he was negotiable with the price, because I might have jumped on it for a few grand less. But now I'm definitely not going to get it, too many what ifs with it, but I guess that's on any used car. At least I know what I have to fix on mine like others have said.
 
Reactions: General karthief and Rdub6
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