Progress Thread '93 Kenne Bell Notch

You can stick with your $8500 invested (which you won’t get all back when you sell) and I’ll assume you know what your problems are. Or you can spend $7500, plus what you’ll lose off the $8500 when you sell, and have a whole lot of question marks. (That dirty engine bay tells me that someone stopped caring quite a while ago). Chances are when all that washes, if you bought and sold, you’ll be deeper than the $8500 you are now.
I’d stick with what you know, and keep the progress going on yours!
 
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I've seen that car up on market place for a while and it just doesn't look like a car I'd spend 5k on. Lift off hood, old sn93 blower, "needs tune", terrible seats, repaint so I'd have to really look for any rust bubbling out anywhere. I would at the very least if your gonna spend the time to look at it check the vin and make sure it's not a 4 cylinder car. Check the torque boxes out really good, check behind the doors where the hinges are for rust, etc
 
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I've seen that car up on market place for a while and it just doesn't look like a car I'd spend 5k on. Lift off hood, old sn93 blower, "needs tune", terrible seats, repaint so I'd have to really look for any rust bubbling out anywhere. I would at the very least if your gonna spend the time to look at it check the vin and make sure it's not a 4 cylinder car. Check the torque boxes out really good, check behind the doors where the hinges are for rust, etc

Out of curiosity what would be the reason to make sure it wasnt a 4 cylinder? That's what mine is now, a 5.0 swap. I didnt know it's been posted for awhile. I'm going to pass on it and continue the progress on mine. Thanks for the advice guys.
 
True 5.0 bodies hold their value more than 4 cylinders....I really have no idea why if the swap was done correctly.

My car is a v8 swap car. When you get to modifications that deep it shouldn't really matter ( in my eyes ). The only downfall is that it can't be restored back to original and still hold value. A factory v8 fully restored fox will get top dolla....but 4 bangers are like the straight 6s of the 60s cars.
 
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True 5.0 bodies hold their value more than 4 cylinders....I really have no idea why if the swap was done correctly.

You pretty much nailed the reason.

If the swap is done right, then there is no difference technically.

But unfortunately the majority of hacked up swaps ruins it for the well done cars
 
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Out of curiosity what would be the reason to make sure it wasnt a 4 cylinder? That's what mine is now, a 5.0 swap. I didnt know it's been posted for awhile. I'm going to pass on it and continue the progress on mine. Thanks for the advice guys.
My reference to 4 cylinder was in relation to value/price. I wouldn't pay v8 money on a swapped 4 cylinder car. Both cars equal the "E" vin would always be worth more and have much more demand over the "M" vin car.

Personally, If the four cylinder swap is done correctly it's a better car in my opinion. Four cylinder cars aren't going to have damaged torque boxes, cracked floor pans, stress cracks along the roof line and twisted body lines. Most times aren't ragged out covered in jeggs stickers etc. I sold four of my factory 5L cars and built my 4 cylinder coupe because of this and have no regrets.
 
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A shot from the junkyard to find the bolt for my steering wheel.
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I wish, I'm in Michigan and you don't see anything like that anymore
 
Not sure if you did anything with the steering rack yet. I've had a few cars that had manual Flaming River racks in them when I bought them. The manual racks SUCK. Unless you are building a drag car, they are not street friendly. It sucks to man-handle them at low speeds, and you feel everything through the steering wheel. You can tell if a nickel was heads or tails when you run one over. Stick to power steering.
 
Not sure if you did anything with the steering rack yet. I've had a few cars that had manual Flaming River racks in them when I bought them. The manual racks SUCK. Unless you are building a drag car, they are not street friendly. It sucks to man-handle them at low speeds, and you feel everything through the steering wheel. You can tell if a nickel was heads or tails when you run one over. Stick to power steering.

I ended up just installing a new motorcraft pump. It's really smooth and pretty quiet, I'm still not really a fan of how much play the steering wheel has right now, but eventually I'll probably get a new rack and stick to PS. When my PS wasnt hooked up, I turned around in my driveway and realized how much of a pain it would be without it, that's what changed my mind lol.
 
If you have "play" in your steering, maybe just see if your rag joint is worn. Seems most folks get rid of that old OEM one and replace it with a more solid intermediate steering shaft piece like a Maximum Motorsoprts or even a Borgeson? one.
 
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Just looked at the car listed for sale.
Not sure what kind of air intake that is but I'd be skeptical.
Another 100hp still in it with a tune ?......really?... with E7 heads and a SN series s/c, I doubt it.
Years ago my first s/c set-up was a SN89, they are not high boost about 4-6psi maybe 7-10psi if
upgraded to a VR4 impeller.
 
Just looked at the car listed for sale.
Not sure what kind of air intake that is but I'd be skeptical.
Another 100hp still in it with a tune ?......really?... with E7 heads and a SN series s/c, I doubt it.
Years ago my first s/c set-up was a SN89, they are not high boost about 4-6psi maybe 7-10psi if
upgraded to a VR4 impeller.

Good to know. I asked if he was negotiable with the price, because I might have jumped on it for a few grand less. But now I'm definitely not going to get it, too many what ifs with it, but I guess that's on any used car. At least I know what I have to fix on mine like others have said.
 
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