JDiFet

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Nov 5, 2019
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Having a slight problem, new to mustangs and just got a 93 foxbody (5 speed) a few days ago. It Sat for a while, not sure how long. Anyway, it runs really rough. During idle it isn’t too terrible, sometimes it might vibrate. But the real problem is when I try to drive it. The car has no power whatsoever, it is really hard to accelerate. I don’t have a tac but I’d say it doesn’t go over 4K, no matter what gear I’m in. For example if I’m going 55mph I can’t shift into 4th because the Rpms drop too much and it shudders. If I run it long enough sometimes it’ll just jolt like it lost fuel delivery, and other times it’ll just straight up stall. I did the usual tune-up yesterday (air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change) I took it for a drive still no difference, after about 10 minutes of driving it just ended up backfiring and stalling out. So after I got it started i took it home, shut it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Started back up and it idled fine, so I took it for a drive. It actually had power! I could go through all the gears with no issue at all. Drove fantastic, I actually noticed the tachometer started to work as well. I was driving around for maybe no more than 15-20 minutes and the tachometer stopped working and back to the same issues. It stalled at one point and I was on the side of the road for about 8 minutes trying to start it had to rev the :poo: out of the throttle to get it home. I’m at a complete loss, I’m thinking fuel/air. Maybe even electrical. I just need some suggestions of possible causes so I can at least start trying things. I have no idea where to go from here.
 
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JDiFet

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Nov 5, 2019
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Philadelphia, PA
Check for codes
Check fuel pressure,
I’ll check the fuel pressure when I get home from work. I can’t pull codes yet I’m still waiting for the diagnostic tool to come in the mail. It does have a check engine light though, so if not the fuel pressure I might just have to wait and see if the computer tells me something.
 

91TwighlightGT

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A tachometer not working on a dual spark ignition 2.3L is a classic sign that you have an ignition coil pack failing. I would at MINIMUM swap the coil packs around and see if you get better performance. Since the one coil runs the waste spark system the car would run off of a single good coil pack, albeit with tachometer issues. If you have the money, based on the age of the vehicle, replace both coil packs with new units.
 

91TwighlightGT

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Also, check out this forum post regarding a similar problem. Some members reported a faulty ignition control module.


I'm of the opinion that the coil pack is more commonly bad, but nothing can be ruled out at this point.
 

JDiFet

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Nov 5, 2019
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Also, check out this forum post regarding a similar problem. Some members reported a faulty ignition control module.


I'm of the opinion that the coil pack is more commonly bad, but nothing can be ruled out at this point.
I got the code reader In the mail and ran the test. Only code that came back was a 222. Which is a “distributorless ignition system- loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor signal” and after searching through some forums come to find out that some people ended up having to replace the ignition module instead. They also had similar issues to mine
 

JDiFet

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Nov 5, 2019
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Recently got a new 93 lx 2.3 l. When I bought it the car had issues running. Car runs rich, you can even smell the gas when it runs. And when you drive it, the car is very sluggish and has no power whatsoever. Run it long enough, it could just die out while driving it. I also don’t have a working tac, although it did for the very short time when the car decided to run decent. Got a code reader and two codes came up in the KOEO test. A 222, and a 114. The 222 is a “distributorless ignition system- loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor signal.” And the 114 is a “air charge temperature sensor is out of self test range.” Question is, what do I do to fix these? Especially the 114.
 

91TwighlightGT

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You already have a thread going. The most common culprits are the ignition control module (available at parts stores like autozone or online at a place like Rock Auto) as well as coil packs (you have 2, this is pointing towards the coil controlling the right side set of plugs).

slight more research also indicates the crank sensor plays a part in this. This is the least likely because the crank sensors on these are pretty reliable Hall effect sensors.

You will have to test the resistances of the coil packs (google the procedure) and see if they are within range. They must be tested hot and cold.

Ignition control modules are finicky and often fail intermittently which makes them hard to test. If the coils test good, you may want to throw an ICM on and see if that fixes the problem. They tend to perform worse the hotter they get.
 

JDiFet

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Nov 5, 2019
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Philadelphia, PA
You already have a thread going. The most common culprits are the ignition control module (available at parts stores like autozone or online at a place like Rock Auto) as well as coil packs (you have 2, this is pointing towards the coil controlling the right side set of plugs).

slight more research also indicates the crank sensor plays a part in this. This is the least likely because the crank sensors on these are pretty reliable Hall effect sensors.

You will have to test the resistances of the coil packs (google the procedure) and see if they are within range. They must be tested hot and cold.

Ignition control modules are finicky and often fail intermittently which makes them hard to test. If the coils test good, you may want to throw an ICM on and see if that fixes the problem. They tend to perform worse the hotter they get.
Thank you for your advice. it really helped me understand the situation I was in here. I ended up going to autozone after work and bought a new ignition module for the car. Installed it, and she started right up. Tac working and everything. Ran great, had power, didn’t smell like gas either. But before I started the car I put the code reader in a again. And I find a new code. It is code 332, which is insufficient air supply to egr. So now I have to deal with that. She kind of jerks a bit when I’m in a higher gear and get on the throttle a tad. But that’s the only issue running wise, also idles around 1,500. Don’t know if that’s related. But I’m assuming the egr could be clogged a bit, just from running like :poo: for a while.
 

91TwighlightGT

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There are some vacuum lines that run to the EGR. Check those first and make sure they are connected and not leaking. Next remove the EGR tube and make sure the ports are not blocked with Carbon and the tube is not obstructed.

You can clean the valve, but if it is really bad you may just want to replace it.
 
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