First go here and it explains how to physically adjust it (scroll down to "2.) Defective TPS"):
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
stangnet.com
Then go here for the myth of as close to 0.99V as possible:
EDIT: This post applies to 86-93 5.0 Mustangs. Seems to be a common myth, so lets sticky a thread explaining how the TPS works. Jrichker has provided the basic TPS guideline to follow. But here's a snip of the A9L GUFB which is the programming logic. Pay attention to the part highlighted...
stangnet.com
I've read that checklist in a few threads, thank you.. I am following it as close as I can given I am not in a Mustang chassis, which is how I got to "mine is out of range". I don't see that heading tho, and searched the entire thread for "defective" to find it.
I wasn't saying 0.99 was an absolute must, just that it was my goal/the target. I know there is a range but also best to be away from the extremes if possible, I was reading getting above 1.25 (I believe it was 1.27xx on my fluke meter) and was able to pull codes last night after I replaced a corroded test connector. Codes I received:
23 - Throttle Position Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (O,CM,R)
31 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage. 0.24 volts (O,CM,R)
67 - Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On -Manual (O), Manual Lever Position Sensor Out Of Range/A/C On (CM,O), Clutch Switch Circuit Failure (CM)
81 - Secondary Air Diverter Circuit Failure (O)
82 - Secondary Air Bypass Circuit Failure (O)
84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Control Circuit Failure (O)
85 - CANP Circuit Failure (O)
87 - Primary Fuel Pump Circuit Failure (CM,O)
EGR and SMOG are removed, so all those codes make sense.
67 makes sense also as I don't have a clutch switch wired in right now.
85 canister purge codes makes sense as there isn't one.
87 I am not using the Ford fuel pump circuit, so that also makes sense (but could it impact cold start?)
I took a file to the mount holes and eventually elongated them enough to get it around 0.98. Didn't fix my cold start issue but idle now is 600 warmed up instead of 1100, so it did help. I need to recheck codes and see where I am, but the cold start persists. It took noticeably less attempts last night to get it to run after TPS adjustment, so perhaps that helped but not resolved... still requires starter fluid to fire when cold. Hot restarts are ok.