Here's what you get when you look at something like the UPR pieces that you just pictured....
A warm and fuzzy.
Just because they fit does not automatically make it worth your while to install them. The wall thickness of those connectors look to be about .o60"
Buy them, put one end in a vise, grab the other end with a pair of channel locks, and see how much force it takes for you to twist them.
I bet they twist like mad.
"Something is better than nothing" is all you'll be doing for yourself when you add a cheap set like that to the floor of your car.
SF connectors in these cars are a big deal. They can go from adding the "modest" rigidity that you'll get from the addition of something like those UPR pieces, to making the chassis so rigid that you can jack up the whole back of the car from one side. The more rigid you make it, the less of an instance of chassis twist. If you control chassis twist, the car handles better, it 60 foots better, it rides better, it doesn't rattle every damn thing loose, every time you go down a rough stretch of road, and the floors don't rip.
If you can weld, make your own..it's probably the easiest project to make a set of SF connectors on the planet.
I went through the same thought process. I was patient and found a new set of MM Full length for $65. Got them welded in and it’s a night and day difference. Less rattles, more rigid, better steering feel and much more confidence in corners. Excellent value at the price I got.CarMichael Angelo, DavidCarpenter and others, thank you for your thoughts in this old thread.
I had bought a set of the SMR full length frame connectors discussed in this thread and they were delivered to my house two weeks ago.
When I picked up the box to bring them inside I immediately felt they seemed very light weight so I didn't even open the box and instead did some more searching online and found this thread.
I ate the cost of return shopping, sent them back and ordered the Maximum Motorsports ones I was considering initially. Well they came a few days ago and the weight difference is substantial. This 87 GT may be my last project car, and it's convertible so I wanted to use the best frame connector I could. I thought the SMR was just as good but I was wrong. Subframe connectors are not an item to save a few bucks on, lesson learned for me.
Thanks gents, for you posts and thoughts that helped me in this matter.
I went through the same thought process. I was patient and found a new set of MM Full length for $65. Got them welded in and it’s a night and day difference. Less rattles, more rigid, better steering feel and much more confidence in corners. Excellent value at the price I got.
I went through the same thought process. I was patient and found a new set of MM Full length for $65. Got them welded in and it’s a night and day difference. Less rattles, more rigid, better steering feel and much more confidence in corners. Excellent value at the price I got.
Live in Chulouta, right around the Oviedo areaWhere in Florida do you live?
We’re planning to get two of them widened to 10 inches
Also not sure if I mentioned in here but we picked up a set of Cobra wheels that were a little rough and need refinishing. We’re planning to get two of them widened to 10 inches to retain oe look but more meet out back, best of both worlds imo. If you guys have any shop recommendations for wheel refinishing and or widening let me know. I’ll attach a pic if I find it.
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