Paint and Body A fast back conversion for hbstang

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
I will be doing a conversion on this nice 68 coupe for one of our members here on Stangnet ,hbstang . He brought me everything to do the conversion and i will be starting on it tomorrow ,monday . The boxes pretty much fill up my parts room .
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first step will be getting it up on stands ,making sure the doors are aligned as best as possible ,they already fit pretty good ,and leveling it up to start cutting it apart .
 
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Driver side door structure is welded .
Have i cused at my welder today ? Yes ,yes i have haha. After removing a tangle ,somthing it is famous for ,it started to make nice welds ,some so flat and smooth just a buff with a flapper wheel will clean them up . I added a few welds at the joints to handle that big motor and its power .
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Driver side door structure is welded .
Have i cused at my welder today ? Yes ,yes i have haha. After removing a tangle ,somthing it is famous for ,it started to make nice welds ,some so flat and smooth just a buff with a flapper wheel will clean them up . I added a few welds at the joints to handle that big motor and its power .
20201213_103740.jpg
20201213_103734.jpg
Speaking of stress cracks, what's your preferred method for dealing with the typical stress cracks around the c-pillars on a coupe? Even my lowly 6-cylinder has visible cracks in that area.

If I ever attempt my own fastback conversion, it will be a '67-'68. The door frames are so much cheaper.
 
Speaking of stress cracks, what's your preferred method for dealing with the typical stress cracks around the c-pillars on a coupe? Even my lowly 6-cylinder has visible cracks in that area.

If I ever attempt my own fastback conversion, it will be a '67-'68. The door frames are so much cheaper.
And a lot easier on the 67 68 . That area cracks on most mustangs ,it is a big flex area because of body stress ,there is lead there so it has to be removed around the crack ,probably the best way to fix is slip a piece of metal behind and weld through the crack to the plate .depending on the roads or how it is driven it still may crack because of the stress in that area
 
And a lot easier on the 67 68 . That area cracks on most mustangs ,it is a big flex area because of body stress ,there is lead there so it has to be removed around the crack ,probably the best way to fix is slip a piece of metal behind and weld through the crack to the plate .depending on the roads or how it is driven it still may crack because of the stress in that area
Thanks for the advice! What do you use in place of the lead in that seam?

I've read a few accounts of a good set of subframe connectors helping immensely to mitigate those stress cracks.