Yeah the guy who's going to do the install has a bunch of cars with blowers on them and he's been doing them for 30 years. He told me to go with a 340 pump with a wire upgrade. I made the reply here asking questions prior to talking to him a good bit to get some information. I still like to ask folks opinions on the forums too though.There are lots of fuel calculators available on line. Here's one:
https://fuelab.com/p-35856-fuel-pump-calculator.html
If you didn't know, for a 340 you'll probably want to use 10ga power and ground wire to the battery. You can use the factory relay and wiring to trigger it. But the factory wiring should not used to power that large of a pump IMO.
A 255 is alright with the factory wiring if it's in good condition with good clean connectors.
I would say minimal 6-10How much boost are you planning to run?
Got you appreciate the insight. I will discuss this with Scott when I speak to him again. the other car that I'm doing the stroker for has the 255 in it already but the 94 in question I need to get a pump for so if I have to buy a pump I guess it's still the same thing whether I want to like you said take advantage of the 340. So yeah I will relay all of that to him and might just be better to just go with the 255You should look at replacing fuel pump hanger at the 340 lph level. I did it with my 255 lph although probably not necessary but I wanted to. The stock fuel lines are next as they just will not deliver what the 340 has to give.
What I am saying here is stick with the 255 high pressure pump unless you are will to spend the time and money to take full advantage of the 340.
We can talk about fuel rails next if you really want to but I think it’s overkill for the hp level you are shooting for.
The top end kit is that just intake and the cam or heads too?^^ I did a new hanger and lines. You should check it out. It's at page 9 https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-prom-engine-management-install.928171/page-9
Might give you some ideas. I'm sticking with a 255lhr pump in mine. I'm using a 360hp TF top end kit and a V3 @8psi. I'm expecting 415 or
Which lines did you do if you are sticking with a 255 are you talking about you did the lines in the engine bay?^^ I did a new hanger and lines. You should check it out. It's at page 9 https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-prom-engine-management-install.928171/page-9
Might give you some ideas. I'm sticking with a 255lhr pump in mine. I'm using a 360hp TF top end kit and a V3 @8psi. I'm expecting 415 or
Gotcha. I will echo all of these things to Scott because that definitely sounds like it makes sense to stick with a 255 in that regard if I'm not upgrading everything else. If I'm not shooting for anything crazy which I'm not, then it doesn't seem like it make any sense.Of course, the not so subtle warning here is that the biggest, baddest part you can find to fill a slot is not always the best.
When the 340's cam out, that is all you ever heard about and nobody could be convinced there was another pump. I found this most common among 30-something tuners and HP junkies.
The thing to remember is how much fuel you plan to use the majority of the time because at idle, the majority of the fuel volume generated by that pump, is being returned to the tank; more heat, more vapors, more tank turbulence.
An issue that I came across more recently is with OEM return-lines and high volume pumps on engines that just didn't use enough fuel at idle and cruise to make it work right. The return-lines became the restriction. They were seeing uncommanded fuel pressure rises and spent some time chasing their tails swapping fuel pressure regulators.
OkNicholas’ top end includes the heads. I believe his entire fuel system is redone, lines from tank to engine, fuel rails, fuel pressure regulator, everything. He can confirm but I’ve watched his thread closely.
I run a 255lph GSS340 in take pump in the stock hangar (stock everything fuel related actually) on a stock 5.0 with a Paxton Novi 1220SL. Injector size is what I’m worried about currently.
that was supposed to say power pipe lol. Let me editWhat does this mean?
If you want to keep the airbox 'close to home', check out this piece from March Performance's Ram Air kit:
I used to have the entire kit kit installed, once upon a time before deleting the scoop and the hose that comes from it.
if the power pipe has the filter pointing downward toward the ground is it best to cover it somehow to prevent water, even though my car's don't see rain unless I get caught out by unsuspected rain if I'm already out lol and avoid puddles at all costs.....What does this mean?
If you want to keep the airbox 'close to home', check out this piece from March Performance's Ram Air kit:
I used to have the entire kit kit installed, once upon a time before deleting the scoop and the hose that comes from it.
if the power pipe has the filter pointing downward toward the ground is it best to cover it somehow to prevent water, even though my car's don't see rain unless I get caught out by unsuspected rain if I'm already out lol and avoid puddles at all costs.....
If you put the filter back in the Bay will you have a cover over it to shield heat?That's where mine is currently.
I have not had issues with it being where it is except for when it comes time to service the filter.
I also have the MAF out in the fender as well.
It's not bad the way that it is but I will be looking to change it up at some point with a [different] Power Pipe. I'm running the SD Power Pipe from back in the day. I would like to put the conical filter and MAF back inside the engine bay eventually.
If you put the filter back in the Bay will you have a cover over it to shield heat?
Gotcha. If you find some images of setups online with any kind of filter in the bay with a blower on the car with a cover let me know I will see if I can Google somethingYes. I will have a full enclosed filter cover similar or the same as the one I posted from March.
also when you're talking about the fuel lines are you factoring in mine is a 94 and not a Fox. He said the lines on a 94 95 are bigger than the foxOf course, the not so subtle warning here is that the biggest, baddest part you can find to fill a slot is not always the best.
When the 340's cam out, that is all you ever heard about and nobody could be convinced there was another pump. I found this most common among 30-something tuners and HP junkies.
The thing to remember is how much fuel you plan to use the majority of the time because at idle, the majority of the fuel volume generated by that pump, is being returned to the tank; more heat, more vapors, more tank turbulence.
An issue that I came across more recently is with OEM return-lines and high volume pumps on engines that just didn't use enough fuel at idle and cruise to make it work right. The return-lines became the restriction. They were seeing uncommanded fuel pressure rises and spent some time chasing their tails swapping fuel pressure regulators.
also when you're talking about the fuel lines are you factoring in mine is a 94 and not a Fox. He said the lines on a 94 95 are bigger than the fox
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