yes talking to him now. One of my questions was catch can vs pcv and he said if my VC doesn't have a baffle he'll put one in and run a breather in place of the cap to vent vs running a catch can.
yes talking to him now. One of my questions was catch can vs pcv and he said if my VC doesn't have a baffle he'll put one in and run a breather in place of the cap to vent vs running a catch can.If that is true, I did not know that. I figured the SN95 cars were the same as 87+ Fox.
yes talking to him now. One of my questions was catch can vs pcv and he said if my VC doesn't have a baffle he'll put one in and run a breather in place of the cap to vent vs running a catch can.
Ok I'll relay that to him, still have him on the phone. If not an option other than getting new VC's then might just go with the breather if I should be ok.......I'm not a fan of this setup. A [breather] can introduce unmetered air at idle/cruise. I've seen plenty of people do it this way tho.
A catch-can on it's own is generally not enough either. The PCV systems on our cars are [small]. For me to get a handle on the oil coming out of the PCV valve, I installed a second on the Driver valve cover. This allowed the air through the PCV valve to [slow] enough that it stopped (ok, extremely slowed) the pickup of oil mist in the crank-case gasses.
Ok I'll relay that to him, still have him on the phone. If not an option other than getting new VC's then might just go with the breather if I should be ok.......
Ok will reiterate that to himIf you end up with a breather, even temporarily, use one with a check-valve.
Ok will reiterate that to him
I will echo that to him94/95 cars have a 1/4” return (same as a Fox) and 3/8” feed (Fox has a 5/16”). Reuse the Feed line for the return and run a new 8AN feed line.
gotcha gotcha. I will call him back in the morning and mention this as well as what Aero said about the lines a sec agoThat way, blow-by has someplace to go but your stock PCV system will still scavenge at idle and cruise.
With a breather and no check-valve, your PCV system is [de-activated] leaving the PCV to scavenge unmetered air through the breather.
gotcha gotcha. I will call him back in the morning and mention this as well as what Aero said about the lines a sec ago
He agreed earlier on a 255 is fine and to just get the upgraded wiring since the wiring is as old as it is. I might just upgrade the wiring since it's that old but I think the wiring will even be fine. He just talked about how being that old he'd rather not run into any issues once on the dyno and something fails. I'll speak with him about that in the morning too. I have to get injectors so will just get 60s and likely siemens since he said with the ford racing I'll have to get adapters and definitely don't want adapters.....Now, just to put the fuel lines into perspective:
I put down 460/480 WHP/TQ with a Kenne Bell Stroker combo. I am using 255L High Press Walbro, power regulated at a steady 13 volts, stock fuel lines, stock return lines, stock fuel rails, stock regulator and 42 lb injectors.
So... If you got the money to burn and want to do it anyway, press on with pride. Just know that at this power level, a lot of mods are not necessary.
i gotta see what that wire upgrade costs to go from the tank to the frontNow, just to put the fuel lines into perspective:
I put down 460/480 WHP/TQ with a Kenne Bell Stroker combo. I am using 255L High Press Walbro, power regulated at a steady 13 volts, stock fuel lines, stock return lines, stock fuel rails, stock regulator and 42 lb injectors.
So... If you got the money to burn and want to do it anyway, press on with pride. Just know that at this power level, a lot of mods are not necessary.
added the boost a pump to the list of questions as well lol. Is the upgrading wiring sold as a set of wiring that's plug and play or something? I was looking for fuel systems upgraded wiring onlineThe wiring upgrade is a good idea IMO. Regardless of what pump you go with.
Mine was upgraded when I installed the Boost-A-Pump to regulate fuel pump power. It resides under the Pass seat with OEM wiring going [into] the BAP.
With that in mind, I [whole heartedly] recommend one of these for anybody desiring a steady fuel pump pressure:
Boost-A-Pump® Universal - Kenne Bell Superchargers
Boost-A-Pump® Universal. Our most popular BOOST-A-PUMP® has always been the “Universal Splice” Kit. It’s a snap to install. Splice just one wire and ground the other. Works on any 12V pump with 12kennebell.net
I do not use the pressure switch (no need) but keep the fuel pump power saturated and steady.
added the boost a pump to the list of questions as well lol. Is the upgrading wiring sold as a set of wiring that's plug and play or something? I was looking for fuel systems upgraded wiring online
'all good will be asking him about that in mornThere was no fuel pump wiring upgrade "kit" when I did my combo.
It was [one] of the reasons why I did a BAP because I was considering running new wire anyway so... WTH
Not to mention that I was burning up the phone lines to Kenne Bell back then with questions. More than one person that I had spoken to, recommended the BAP for the same reasons I recommend it. The thing is rock solid. Headlights, A/C, Defrost; I can turn it all on at the same time and the pump stays steady. I have a similar device that keeps my coil saturated/steady with dials in the cockpit that I have set and forgotten (no need to adjust once set).
'all good will be asking him about that in morn
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