Engine At the end of my sanity. 92 GT on jack stands for the last 11 years - NO START

[Green 94 5.0]

So it's been a while but I finally got the motivation to work on the car again. I thought I had it figured out after realizing the gas in the car that I was trying to start it with had been in the tank for about 7 years. It's currently N/A with a 8.8:1 Dart block 331, AFR 205, 1-3/4 longitudes, O/R X, Bassani catback, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 80mm Pro-M, Aeromotive stealth fuel system, TwEECer R/T. So after draining the tank the car still won't start with fresh gas. Cranks but not even a sign it is trying to turn over.

Maintenance after sitting:
Oil change
New TPS
New IAC
New injector harness
New 80lb injectors
New 80mm MAF calibrated for 60's
New O2 sensors
Fuel pump rebuild
New fuel filter
Drained and scrubbed tank prior to putting in the rebuilt pump
New coil
New distributor
New spark plugs
New plug wires
New starter solenoid
New starter
New alternator
New A/C compressor
Replaced a bunch of dry rotted vacuum lines
Replaced caps on the EEC as I couldn't source a new one
Made the changes in the tune for the new MAF curve and injectors

I'm sure there is more that was replaced but it is escaping me right now. I have verified 38psi fuel pressure, verified spark at the coil and spark at the plugs, verified distributor is clocked correctly. I'm at a loss here as even if something was off with the timing, fuel, etc, it should still sound like it is trying to turn over instead of just cranking nonstop. With an injector unplugged I see fluctuating voltage between 2V and 3.5V on the green wire while cranking. With the condition the body is in and the money I have invested I'm not ready to give up on it, but I am 100% out of ideas as I've been over everything over and over and over and have replaced every sensor and maintenance item I could think of with zero improvement. The last thing I was looking at was an MSPNP2, but I just can't justify throwing another $800+ without getting some opinions first. Thanks guys.

 

[limp]

Verify your distributor is correct...the best way I know how to do this is take off the valve cover from the pass side and turn over the engine by hand until you see the intake on #1 cylinder go up and down. The next time the line on your balancer goes to the pointer you are there.
Make sure the distributor is pointing at #1 in your cap....
Have you tried spraying a sprits of starting fluid in the air filter to see if you can get it to pop?
Quit throwing money and parts at it until you figure out whats wrong.....

 

[General karthief]

How are you 'tuning' the ECU?

 

[Noobz347]

How are you 'tuning' the ECU?

TwEECer R/T

How do we know that the EEC with the replaced capacitors is any good? Have you pulled codes from it?


My other thought/question: Are your 80lb injectors low impedance? If not, are you running an external driver?

And the other/other question that came to mind as I typed the last question: Did this combo ever run?

 

[Trogdor]

When did you replace the injectors? If they have been sitting with fuel in them for a long time (like a year) they could be gummed up.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

How are you 'tuning' the ECU?

Originally a TwEECer that was bought in the early 2000's using CalEdit. Figured it might have died and bought a Moates Quarterhorse and tried with TunerPro. Same result. Figured the EEC may have bought the farm and went shopping for a "new" one, but couldn't find anything for less than $300 used. None of the usual stores sell refurbs anymore. I know how to solder so bought a recap kit. Still no start. Went over the solder points multiple times and tested continuity to the next point on the board. All tested fine.

 

[General karthief]

Can you pull codes?
I need to go back and read the thread over

 

[Green 94 5.0]

How do we know that the EEC with the replaced capacitors is any good? Have you pulled codes from it?


My other thought/question: Are your 80lb injectors low impedance? If not, are you running an external driver?

And the other/other question that came to mind as I typed the last question: Did this combo ever run?

Yes. Fuel pump primes at KOEO as it should, primes a second time when pulling codes.

Codes are:

51 - Coolant temperature sensor out of specified range
81 - Thermactor air circuit
82 - Thermactor air circuit, integrated controller circuit
85 - Canister purge circuit or transmission shift control circuit

The injectors are Siemens 80lb bought from ZZ Performance. The order doesn't specify a part number, but the current EV1 80lb Siemens Deka that looks identical say high impedance. If I'm not mistaken, aren't the stock 19lb injectors that came with these cars high impedance?

As far as if it ever ran with this combo, no. The entire fuel system was changed out during Covid as well as the MAF, intake, TB, and the turbo kit was removed and the car returned to N/A.

 

[General karthief]

The ECUexchange is not far from you, I don't fool around with stuff I know nothing about (computers), it's helped resolve a bunch of issues with Fords of our era I've dealt with.
the miss-match here is beyond me

New 80lb injectors
New 80mm MAF calibrated for 60's

yeah you're gonna need tuning capabilities and a learning curve.
Just my opinion.
Will it fire with starting fluid?
Fuel pressure?
Compression test?
you added stuff while I was correcting.my spealling, sorry,

 

[AeroCoupe]

Yes, stock injectors are high impedance.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

Verify your distributor is correct...the best way I know how to do this is take off the valve cover from the pass side and turn over the engine by hand until you see the intake on #1 cylinder go up and down. The next time the line on your balancer goes to the pointer you are there.
Make sure the distributor is pointing at #1 in your cap....
Have you tried spraying a sprits of starting fluid in the air filter to see if you can get it to pop?
Quit throwing money and parts at it until you figure out whats wrong.....

Missed this one earlier. I've set it the rudimentary way with a straw, then with a TDC tool, then finally with the valve cover off when it still wouldn't turn over. I have not as of yet tried starting fluid. It's only been a few days since I got the tank back up after being cleaned out.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

The ECUexchange is not far from you, I don't fool around with stuff I know nothing about (computers), it's helped resolve a bunch of issues with Fords of our era I've dealt with.
the miss-match here is beyond me

yeah you're gonna need tuning capabilities and a learning curve.
Just my opinion.
Will it fire with starting fluid?
Fuel pressure?
Compression test?
you added stuff while I was correcting.my spealling, sorry,

I got past the basic learning curve over a decade ago with my first SN95. I've always entered the base variables and driven conservatively to the dyne for dialing in. I've never had a problem at least getting the car to crank and run before going on the dyno. The mismatch of the MAF and injectors is because I originally had 60's in the car when I bought the MAF. When I bought the 80's, the correct 30pt MAF transfer has been entered and the high and low injector slopes as well as the breakpoint has been entered for the 80's. I've had many mismatched MAF's and injectors over the years and so long as the flow sheet for the MAF was known it has never been a problem. Even if one of those variables is incorrect, the car should still crank and die or crank and run poorly. If I thought it would help I would have sent the MAF off for recalibration.

Fuel pressure is at 38psi. Compression test was 140-150 on all cylinders.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

Yes, stock injectors are high impedance.

That being said, shouldn't the high impedance 80lb injectors be fine? If the size changes the requirement for a controller it would definitely explain the issue with crank but no start.

I do still have the 60's that the car ran with last, but they would need to be serviced as they definitely had bad gas go through them before they sat.

 

[Noobz347]

I don't see [anything] in the above combo that necessitates 80lb or even 60 lb injectors.

If it ran with the 60's before tho, I would try putting them back in to see if the thing kicks over (even a stumble will do).

 

[limp]

Missed this one earlier. I've set it the rudimentary way with a straw, then with a TDC tool, then finally with the valve cover off when it still wouldn't turn over. I have not as of yet tried starting fluid. It's only been a few days since I got the tank back up after being cleaned out.

The problem with the straw is it will come up on the wrong stroke also...My recommendation is not the easiest way to tell but where your at with this I felt you need to absolutely make sure before moving on to the next..
The reason for some starter fluid ( be careful with it) is to see if it pops.. Then that tells us you are getting no fuel...

 

[AeroCoupe]

I am thinking that with an 8.8:1 motor boost is in its future? I run 42's on my N/A 331 and on the stock fuel system we had to turn it up to 50 psi to get enough fuel on the dyno.

 

[General karthief]

Too many parts/pieces swapped for me to comprehend.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

I don't see [anything] in the above combo that necessitates 80lb or even 60 lb injectors.

If it ran with the 60's before tho, I would try putting them back in to see if the thing kicks over (even a stumble will do).

It's a Dart Sportsman 331 with forged everything. The car originally had a turbo with a wastegate spring at 10psi and more recently a Vortech V3 Si seeing 15psi. The blower came off temporarily when the car refused to start. The 60's likely would have been enough to support it, but after the bad fuel it was faster to just buy another set than wait for them to be checked and repaired.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

The problem with the straw is it will come up on the wrong stroke also...My recommendation is not the easiest way to tell but where your at with this I felt you need to absolutely make sure before moving on to the next..
The reason for some starter fluid ( be careful with it) is to see if it pops.. Then that tells us you are getting no fuel...

The last time it was set, it was with the valve cover off, so I'm 100% the distributor is in right and the distributor hasn't been pulled since setting. Going to try some starting fluid this weekend.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

Too many parts/pieces swapped for me to comprehend.

I was very bored during the 3 month "vacation" I had during Covid. Regretting so much being changed at once.