Engine At the end of my sanity. 92 GT on jack stands for the last 11 years - NO START

[2000xp8]

I run 42's on my N/A 331 and on the stock fuel system we had to turn it up to 50 psi to get enough fuel on the dyno.

I'm trying to make sense of this.
42's will support 500rwhp with a supercharger, but you needed more 10 more psi with a NA 331?
I've seen 30's stretched past 450rwhp all motor. And i used them on a 347 (and a 302).
It's why i usually say there is no point in 36's on a 302 based engine, not enough for a supercharged setup and more than people need NA.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I’ve had a few people say this but I saw the AF graph on the dyno and it wanted more fuel. It’s what make the combo happy so that’s what I’m running.

All that aside and the fact is you can run big injectors and tune the car for drivability.

 

[Mcmahst]

How did the starting fluid test go?

 

[Green 94 5.0]

How did the starting fluid test go?

Sorry for the late reply. Just got a chance to get to this last night. With a healthy squirt of starting fluid in the throttle body, the car stumbled like it was actually going to start then I got a nice pop back out the upper.

It looks like the injectors are definitely the problem as I have verified pressure in the rails, voltage at the injectors, and spark.

I'm going to stick the 60's back in and see what happens.

 

[Jarhead67]

So it's been a while but I finally got the motivation to work on the car again. I thought I had it figured out after realizing the gas in the car that I was trying to start it with had been in the tank for about 7 years. It's currently N/A with a 8.8:1 Dart block 331, AFR 205, 1-3/4 longitudes, O/R X, Bassani catback, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 80mm Pro-M, Aeromotive stealth fuel system, TwEECer R/T. So after draining the tank the car still won't start with fresh gas. Cranks but not even a sign it is trying to turn over.

Maintenance after sitting:
Oil change
New TPS
New IAC
New injector harness
New 80lb injectors
New 80mm MAF calibrated for 60's
New O2 sensors
Fuel pump rebuild
New fuel filter
Drained and scrubbed tank prior to putting in the rebuilt pump
New coil
New distributor
New spark plugs
New plug wires
New starter solenoid
New starter
New alternator
New A/C compressor
Replaced a bunch of dry rotted vacuum lines
Replaced caps on the EEC as I couldn't source a new one
Made the changes in the tune for the new MAF curve and injectors

I'm sure there is more that was replaced but it is escaping me right now. I have verified 38psi fuel pressure, verified spark at the coil and spark at the plugs, verified distributor is clocked correctly. I'm at a loss here as even if something was off with the timing, fuel, etc, it should still sound like it is trying to turn over instead of just cranking nonstop. With an injector unplugged I see fluctuating voltage between 2V and 3.5V on the green wire while cranking. With the condition the body is in and the money I have invested I'm not ready to give up on it, but I am 100% out of ideas as I've been over everything over and over and over and have replaced every sensor and maintenance item I could think of with zero improvement. The last thing I was looking at was an MSPNP2, but I just can't justify throwing another $800+ without getting some opinions first. Thanks guys.

I don’t mean to be rude, but have it towed to a reputable mechanic and let them troubleshoot it.

 

[FastDriver]

OMG... that's a nice list of parts to be having these types of problems.

My first thought was ignition issues, but the starter fluid test seems to indicate otherwise.
#1: find Jrichker's Crank but No Start checklist and go through it, step by step. It's methodical and will solve your issue if you follow it in detail. I usually try all my shortcuts and when I'm finally stumped on a car, I start over & just work through it. First tip there: If you have an aftermarket ignition box, bypass it. Seems a high percentage of these situations are resolved there.
#2: Definitely high impedence injectors. Apparently, Siemens Deka 80's are excellent at controlling low PW fuel, though I have no personal experience with them. You say you're getting voltage at the injector. Did you run a noid light? Do you know they're firing? How do the Salt 'n Peppa shakers look? Might wanna clean 'em up and ensure a good connection.
#3: Stock up on spare ignition & fuel system parts. I've got pretty much everything on the shelf from the fuel pump to the injectors & from the battery to thru the computer all the way to the spark plugs. Diagnostics are great, but swapping to known good parts sure makes things easy & gets the car running quickly again. If you were in the area, I'd bring over a computer, a set of injectors, a coil, and a dizzy and we'd probably find out what's happening real quick.
#4: NEVER plug in or unplug a piggyback tuner (TWEECER, QH, etc...) into your EEC with the ignition on. Supposedly it bricks the computer.

Good luck. I know how annoying something like this can be.