Auto guys, stock stall, 60 foot times?

[justinschmidt1]

Just wondering what kind of 60 foot you guys can get.

Im procharged but that probably hurts me more than anything since im not actually making boost till after the 60 foot and its more lag on the engine.


I havent been able to do any than 2.0....usually like 2.05 or so.


Ive got 3.73 gears.

Anyone actually able to do much better on stock stall without KB or spray out of the hole of course.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

best i could muster (with Kuhmo 710's i believe) on a stock tranny was around 2.15; commonly 2.2's. KDW II's and a built tranny with a 3200 stall i hit 2.0X consistently with a dip into the 1.9's every so often - although my best ET has been with a 2.00.

3.73 gears

 

[03ghoststang]

best 60'ft i ever got on my GT was a 1.97 stock trans, stock stall...... damn i miss my car

 

[TGJ]

When I swapped a stock Mustang GT TC into my 96 TBird way back in 2001, I was able to cut some low 1.9 60ft with a 3.73 differential. The car had minor bolt-ons as well( Removed Air Silencer, UDP's, Chip, custom catback, 3.73 TL differential ).

 

[04YELLOWGT]

I hit 1.89 in my GT a few times when the tranny was bone stock and with stock suspension on DRs.

Since my built tranny and stall, still on stock suspension I've pulled a best of 1.69.

 

[speed545]

low 1.9X with a little foot brake.

Stockish everything except the V2SQ

 

[justinschmidt1]

wierd....guess I should have went with 4.10s.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

wierd....guess I should have went with 4.10s.

Doesn't sound like gearing is the problem - more like traction and suspension.

 

[justinschmidt1]

ehh....2.025, dead hooking with m/t ET streets


My rear brakes were grinding metal to metal at this point....but uh, I dont think it has much more in the 60 foot with my setup.

auto, 3.73s, stock stall....I dont think theres much more there.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

04MUSTANG was running the stock auto deep into the 11's i believe with 3.73's - and i got 2.1-2.2 with a stock auto and 3.73's with just bolt-on's and a PI intake; so i personally think 4.10's aren't what your looking for.

Practice
LCA's
Subframe connectors

 

[justinschmidt1]

04MUSTANG was running the stock auto deep into the 11's i believe with 3.73's - and i got 2.1-2.2 with a stock auto and 3.73's with just bolt-on's and a PI intake; so i personally think 4.10's aren't what your looking for.

Practice
LCA's
Subframe connectors

I was also doing 2.1 with stock auto and 3.73s.

I think what im looking for is a stall converter...lol

Why would lcas and subframes improve my 60 foot if im hooking now?

They actually make that big of a differance?

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

I was also doing 2.1 with stock auto and 3.73s.

I think what im looking for is a stall converter...lol

Why would lcas and subframes improve my 60 foot if im hooking now?

They actually make that big of a differance?

yeah, but aren't you getting 2.1's with more rubber and much more power? If you were hooking up properly with enough rpm's to launch effectively and not losing traction then there's no reason you should be running 2.1/2.0's.
In launching you always need either need more practice, more rubber, more suspension, or more power.
A stall converter and gears both simulate power (thats what a converter means, multiplies torque).
So if you have pleny of power already, unless your tranni is completely shot you need more practice (different rpms drops, application of throttle) or more suspension.

 

[billfisher]

1.95 3.90 gears stock stall, hoosier dot pro's.

with added low end torque and 2.73 i have now... we'll see.

 

[justinschmidt1]

yeah, but aren't you getting 2.1's with more rubber and much more power? If you were hooking up properly with enough rpm's to launch effectively and not losing traction then there's no reason you should be running 2.1/2.0's.
In launching you always need either need more practice, more rubber, more suspension, or more power.
A stall converter and gears both simulate power (thats what a converter means, multiplies torque).
So if you have pleny of power already, unless your tranni is completely shot you need more practice (different rpms drops, application of throttle) or more suspension.

Thats the thing...Im not making any more power down low...I make power from 3-6k but im already done the 60 foot by the time im hitting boost...

Im auto man...there is no differant rpm drop.


Its full throttle, dead hook, the car has absolutely no balls down low, 2.0 60 foots.

 

[MaxedGT]

2.0 here too. street tires, drag radials, e/t streets and e/t drags. That's all she wrote. No point in suspension mods without a high stall torque converter.
No balls down low.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Thats the thing...Im not making any more power down low...I make power from 3-6k but im already done the 60 foot by the time im hitting boost...

Im auto man...there is no differant rpm drop.


Its full throttle, dead hook, the car has absolutely no balls down low, 2.0 60 foots.

No rpm drop? You don't power brake it, launching at 3500rpms or so? Or is the prob once you luach starting at 3500 rpm's to falls down into the low rpm's with traction.

 

[Notchbck93]

If he threw a converter into it capable of flashing up to 3500 then maybe, but certainly no power brake launches without spinning on a tight converter.


A good converter will drop you in the 1.8's. Run your car on the rollers, send the info to your converter manufacture and let them hook you up. A converter, on average, is good for .5 on the big end.

It also depends on how much street time you spend, an external trans cooler is a must with a higher stall.

For every one second under max stall (power brake launching) your tranny fluid will increase 100 degrees.

Long tubes help with the low-end grunt, but a converter is a must if you want to leave harder.

 

[bhuff30]

A higher stall torque converter should help you a lot. The stock stall is just too low to get into the meat of the power/torque band. I have a similar problem on my 2.3 turbo. Stall speeds are based on the amount of torque you have. If you can make more low end torque, it will stall higher. A quick fraction of a second of spray would get the rpms up for you. Use something like a 30 shot and turn it on at your stall speed and turn it off at 2-3psi of boost. Or if you really want to have some fun, leave it on for the rest of the pass (after tuning as required).

 

[justinschmidt1]

No rpm drop? You don't power brake it, launching at 3500rpms or so? Or is the prob once you luach starting at 3500 rpm's to falls down into the low rpm's with traction.

I have a stock converter so when I flash its like 2500..its faster to just flash the converter than power brake.

I cut 2.025 flashing, 2.05 power braking.

The problem is the car really doesnt start moving till 3500 or so atleast.

I can really feel it turn on once I hit 3500 rpms...but before that its weak.

I would need to be flashing at 3500-4k to really be moving out of the hole.

It doesnt really fall down...it just simply doesnt make enough torque/power to haul out of the hole without more rpms or multiplication.

I wouldnt be suprised to knock off more than .5 with a converter and some tires.

I would probably be able to do better than 1.8 60 foot if I went with a 4k converter or so, stickies...but I would need some axles shortly I bet.

But considering this is my street car, daily driver...I dont know if I want that

 

[speed545]

For every one second under max stall (power brake launching) your tranny fluid will increase 100 degrees.

Really?

Well that s just enough for me to stop doing that.

I can barely hit 2200rpm when power braking. The car wil start spinning before that. And i m running ET street on a medium prepared track.